Ilikeoldfords

Thanks for the break down there. It has been a long time since I did my last clutch job. It seems I may have forgot some of those details. I am going to look at doing the clutch pretty soon anyway. I have no idea what clutch is in there so it would be nice to have that piece of mind. Thanks all for the input and knowledge. Ill keep this thread posted with whatever I find that way people in the future have a resource.

I have tried pretty much everything I know how to. The only way it doesn't grind into gear between shifts is holding the clutch down for 2-3 seconds before putting it into the next gear or double clutching. I talked to a popular tranny shop today and they said it sounds like the pilot bearing could be out. I guess it has been at least 100,000 miles since anyone had been in there. Possible the bearing is out I would guess.

That's pretty cool. It's really amazing with what they can do with LED technology. The reason I asked was i am running 2 of the 100w halogens and I really like the distance I get from them. I like LEDs but I haven't been able to find any that put out the same distance as my old 4in halogens. For a reasonable price I might add...

I suppose I might call the tranny shop in town and see what they think. I just kind or want to get an idea of what I could be looking at before I have it torn into. Ill keep posted here with what I find.

Do you get much distance with those? Or is it more just like a big flood light? I have seen them around and was just curious, thanks.

All of this is part of the reason I bed lined my rockers. I cleaned the paint up real good before I rolled the black stuff on obviously. I didn't just do the rockers, but around that little lip that goes over the wheel wells. I did the inner edge of the wheel wells as well. This way the metal has that much more protection and it wont let that crap get in and sit on the paint. My paint is really starting to chip away anyway because the guy that I bought this truck from had a VERY cheap paint job put on before I bought it. I figured I could save the rockers by bedlining them.

It makes me sick with everything going on up there in DC anymore. Its never about the people like it should be. Its only about what benefits them and making sure they get what they want, even if the people receive the effects of it. That goes for the House, Congress, and especially the White House as far as I'm concerned. Should just fire them all and start over with people that still have some brains left.

All of this is true. I am just a little biased to my mod set up I suppose. I would be worried about it kinking or something but as long as you set it up right you shouldn't have an issue. I guess the whole point is do whatever you have to to get the oil away from the front of the engine and radiator.

I heard something somewhere and it kinda made me think. In reality, all you might need the shield for is to keep the filter from melting or deforming from the turbo being RIGHT there. Otherwise, wouldn't you want the heat from the turbo to warm the IAT's up? I mean, that's what we are doing with the mpg fooler is telling the computer that they are warmer. Might as well give it the real thing if you don't have the fooler. Just my thoughts. Just for the record, I have been running my BHAF for about a year with no shield. All good here.

For anyone making their own cables in the future, if you can find a store that sells the brand "Standard Motor Products", Standard makes like every terminal and lug known to man. They also make a full line of quality battery cable and battery cable shrink tube. That's what I stock at my store here and I also make cables for customers. Standard make a very good quality product too. If you are ever needing a specific terminal or lug, PM me. I can always put something in the mail or whatever.

The oil would start eating through heater hose I would think. Anything rubber would be prone to being eaten through eventually. Then you will have leaks in more places then you started with.

So this problem has been eating away at me for a while now. Ever since I bought this truck almost 2 years ago, it has always had a hard shift problem. It almost feels like the clutch doesn't release fully right away. I figured it was the stock hydro's going out. I replaced them with the valair HD set from DAP. It definitely helped the problem but it hasn't completely gone away. I thought at first maybe the tranny is just starting to wear out being it has over 200k on it, but it feels exactly the same in every gear. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal out farther so it gets more travel and pushes the clutch more. Still feels like the clutch isn't releasing all the way at first. The truck doesn't try to creep forward on me or anything, I just have to hold the clutch in for about 2-3 seconds in between shifts if I don't want to "catch" the next gear hard. Without pulling the tranny, I am not sure what else I can do. Would a worn out pilot bearing/bushing cause this? The clutch doesn't slip or anything yet. I just don't want to wear my tranny out prematurely or whatever. I even replaced the fluid with no change in behavior. Sorry for the novel guys, just don't know what to do.

Just for the record, I did Mike's mod and painted the pipe black. Cant even tell its there. Looks like its supposed to be there to anyone else looking in.

750 seems real high to me for egts at 45 mph. I don't hardly run 5 lbs of boost and 700 egts at 70 in my truck and I'm running 35's!! Sounds like something is hung up or brake is dragging to me.

To each their own I suppose. I just thought I would share it anyway. If I may ask, are you worried about it melting? Or how it looks?

So its a modified version of the stock set up? Have you seen this....http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/42-crankcase-vent-mod This is a very simple set up and a ton of people have done it. This way you wont loose any oil and the fumes and everything is directed away from the front of the engine entirely.

How many miles are on the injectors? Could be dirty injectors?? I know Mopar1973man has cleaned his before.. Might make a difference.

I just took a black plastic mud flap for an 18 wheeler, cut it down some and made a guard to protect the pump and my inline filter there. I cut one side so it followed the curve of the bed. Keeps everything nice and clean down there too.

Thanks for the thoughts. Drove it to work today and still no codes came back. Looks like I'm good. I'm still gonna clean the grounds this weekend since I'm disconnecting the batteries anyway.

I think most after market pumps mount outside of the frame, not inside. I have mine mounted between the frame and the outside of the bed and there is plenty of room there. I could be wrong in my thinking here but I was pretty sure that's where the aftermarket pumps were mounted. Then you just run your fuel lines over the frame to the top of the tank module.

Keeping an eye on the boost gauge is what really helps me. The more boost you are making, the more fuel you are using, the hotter the EGT's. When I am going for mileage, I never go over 10 psi, even if it means being the slow guy on the highway. I always average 5-10 mph under the speed limit on the freeway but I am making real good mileage because of it.

When I replace the batteries this weekend I am planning on checking/cleaning the ground connections. Sounds like I might be having a bad connection somewhere. I am not sure there is anything that would link these codes apart from bad grounds maybe. Thanks for that code info!! - - - Updated - - - When I replace the batteries this weekend I am planning on checking/cleaning the ground connections. Sounds like I might be having a bad connection somewhere. I am not sure there is anything that would link these codes apart from bad grounds maybe. If the Comp was malfunctioning could it affect any of these?? - - - Updated - - - Don't know why that happened^^^^ I am just hoping I don't have an ECM issue

Ok so I pulled the codes. P1689, P0232, and P0215. I haven't gotten a chance to look them up yet. I cleared them and none have come back at the moment. I drove about 15 miles after clearing them. Thanks for that MnTom!!

So I went on vacation this weekend and had to leave the truck at the airport. No way to plug it in. I have known for a while that the batteries were getting a little weak but like a :banghead: I figured I could squeeze one more trip out of them. When I got back last night it was a toasty -7* F in Fargo, ND. Batteries didn't have enough juice to crank her over. Had a guy give me a jump and we finally got it started after a couple of times worth of cranking a few seconds, let the batteries recharge, run the grids. Now the check engine light is on. Gonna go by a autozone or something and use a scanner. Ill post what I find. I got some new batteries today so I shouldn't have a problem anymore hopefully:pray: Didn't have a CEL before I parked it there for the weekend so I'm interested to find out what codes are hiding in there. I was gonna use the key trick but I wanna see EVERYTHING that's in there. Ill keep ya posted....

You basically just read the voltage signal coming out of the APPS sensor with the DVM. There is a spec that the output needs to be but I don't remember it. You just use that little hex screw on the front of the APPS sensor to adjust it within spec. When I did my Timbo APPS it came with that spec and instructions on how/ where to measure that voltage. Really simple procedure.