guesswho512

i know what you mean. after i recently went to straight pipe. i actually put my silencer ring back in! but you still hear it spin down.

i saw a news report that said nearly all manufactures say no flushes(on motors). they had the president of honda america to say it was bad and not needed if you have proper maintenance. ford said it could void your warranty. but if it destroyed the motors and trans they were hooked up to, then these places wouldn't use them....

:iagree:kinda brings a smile to my face

i would think it would be come contaminated...but i think thats why most manufactures want drain intervals at 24k-30k. i often hear about people going 10s of thousands even 100k before they do that maintence...but those same people go buy a new car/truck when the trans craps. i don't know a whole lot about autos...but did help a friend rebuild a 4l60-e.(read my sig if you want my opinion) i think some places have a BG flush machine. my understanding is that it hooks up to the hoses and pumps the old out and the new in. i hear alot of people say that a drain and fill at 200k will usually wash what little fictions are left and causes slipping(thats why the freind had to rebuild that 4l60-e). you could pull the trans and drain the torque convertor...just try to put as much fluid as possible in the torque converter before you bolt it up(it will leak while your bolting and stabbing)

from what i understand....when the truck sits, some of the fluid in the torque converter drains back into the pan. or the trans could have been "over full". i wouldn't worry about it to much, unless the fluid is dark or if you have to keep adding fluid. i have always filled based off the dip stick. just my

ohh, how i wish i had a transfer case and another axle....i can do it...it just takes a running start

that info from alldata is probably if you have a new trans/torque converter and it has no fluid. on a drain and fill, you usually don't empty the torque converter at all. i had seen a similar amount for my parents nissan maxima. and when my buddy rebuilt his 4l60-e, he was buying trans fluid by the pail.

are you talking about sticks or autos.....and 1/2tons? need more as much info as possible...one time i got a tranny at a bone yard and it was the same tranny...but the non removable bellhousing had different bolt pattern. i could have swapped the insides but traded it off instead.

dually....i would like to remind you that its not your truck. no one told you "people that have bigger turbos should dump the exhaust directly into the sphincter of the driver". if he wants tickets/break his truck......who cares(him and thats about it). mopar1973man had pertinet information for that guy's problem. i would hope that if someone on this site had the answer to one of my problems, they wouldn't keep it from me, for fear of me ruining some sport. you say you dont want to be the knob. then don't. opinions are like excuses, and there is a section for that. its called "General Conversations" not trying to beat you up.....but this is the kinda of none help responses you get at other forums

i was wondering why you were telling this story, until i read its snowing where you are.lolin oklahoma it was warm and partly sunny got the back yard and garage picked up. now i can find tools\jacks when i do some work on the trucks.i never used to clean all the snow off. just enough to see around. back in dec news reports went out reminding people that if ice falls off your vehicle and does damage, then you are liable. since then i try to get most off my top and ladder. good point about the inspections. living in OK, and being young, i have never had the torture/pleasure of inspections.

no...but everyone i know who donates money to him says he is going to....i agree with liveoak....those 2 parties should merge and so they can both waste money happily. the only reason they can't is they would have no one to blame their screw ups on.

spring is in the air...so turkey season is near. i used to have grandpa call because he always brought'em in. but i realize that it has hindered my ability, so i will be trying to master it in the seasons to come.i use to be the barterer(you won't believe how many people want cable/telephone/electric jack on a certain wall), but living in tulsa(i don't know any people) and working at night gives little time to work deals regularly. now it seems i have to grease the wheels to keep everything running smoothly...if you know what i mean.as for the male bashing...the is always an easy bad guy(whether it be the nazis,commis,blacks,gays,etc). right now its the goofy white guy/pompous rich white guy(although it should be those stupid ****** on jersey shore). rather then waste breathe fighting it....just wait until the next one comes along.i can tell you....getting away from pavement.....i mean getting somewhere where the only car in 15miles is the one you drove in on....i love it. watching the sunrise from a tree....its primal and spiritual all at the same time.

are you sure? i haven't bought a pump myself, but i was under the impression that bosch gives the warranty and they decide if your pump meets the specs for warranty. and cut wires always meant no coverage. at least that was what i was lead to believe.

when i bled mine....i filled the slave up and push air...connected hose, filled and bled...connected the master, fill and bled....by doing this i only bled it once, and didn't have to remove it after install. obvisiouly the air rises...so when bleeding, hold the escape path up and pump that slave's piston. as a cable guy, i have hundreds of zip ties....thats how i held the piston in while putting it back in the truck

i watched a show on TV where 2-3 business owners told cameras that all they did was bottle acetone, with names like XtraMPG and MPG+ for gasoline. after that show i have never bought fuel supplements again(expect 2 stoke:thumbup2:)

:iagree:but gl4 is a rating that is rarely used today(i think someone said its a really old military spec). you will usually find GL5/MT1. most people will tell you that GL5 is compatible with GL4...but when you look at the criteria for rating, GL5/MT1 has more of the stuff that harms the yellow metals. i read up on this back when i had a trans flush and fill. because not all oils are the same...i do think that SOME GL5/MT1's will work...but i didn't want to the test bed at that time.

those guys at autozone/orielly's don't know nothing other than what they own. just a couple of days ago, an autozone tech told me that ford owned cummins. i tried to explain that they only bought a small % of stock, which they no longer own! but you know that someone who's uncle's cousin's father-in-law had a cummins knows everything about them. as far as the ATF3 and ATF4. i recently saw a comparison between those and dex and merc. the ATF3 and 4 blew those 2 out of the water on lube after shearing. 4 is designed to be backwards compatible...meaning if it took 3 than 4 is ok. ATF4 last longer than ATF3 and often can go longer drain intervals(because it doesn't wearout as fast from shearing). i will try to find article for you guys

i left mine in...but i had the clutch hyrdraulic assembly bled before it went into the truck. as in the reservoir was full before it was bolted in. i took my time as i didn't want to have to pull it out after just getting it in. i believe the pedal was the last thing i did. let us know when you finish it

exactly. i found trace amounts of fluid on the pedal linkage when i pulled the whole thing out...but its an internal leak. the pedal isn't to the floor yet

i could not find where it said how many miles you had...but recently for me(@ 165k) it was extremely hard to shift gears and it felt like i was putting the pedal thru the floor(even after i moved the mats)! the clutch has NEVER slipped so i figured it was hydraulics. i followed mopar1973man's instructions(found here:http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/clutch-hyd/clutch-hyd.htm) and it worked flawlessly! i almost killed it backing out of the driveway for test run(cause the pedal was so high!). sadly the pedal is working its way down over the months, but i believe its a leaky master. it has bought me time at least.

i believe smarty alters the ECU's fueling,timing,and boost maps...but its still the ECU sees the info if i understand bluechip's redline correctly, the ECU and FPCM can see whats happening...just powerless to change the data

just FYI...my 99 ram is NOT OBD2 compliant but does do most obd2 PIDs. i think somewhere else i read obd2 wasn't certified(for diesels) until 03 or 04. i know your not dodge, but: they have almost made it so we(at least the dodge guys) need a DRB3!:banghead:

i found this info if your curious....http://quad4x4.com/Dodge%2094-04%20NV4500.htm

from what i understand...the main shaft is the real culprit. in fact that is often the permanent fix. i have read that 99s and newer have a "revised" 5th gear nut...but it can still have this problem

if i had a dollar for every time that has happened...it seems if i try to hit the torque #s then i break bolts...sorry for your luck, but glad murphy follows other people too(i swear i thought he lived in my cab)