guesswho512

i think its like the hydraulics on an old tractor. the seals get so wore that nothing happens(or doesn't move much). the pump is still moving fluid, but since it flows right past the seals, it doesn't move the arm. my is doing the similar thing. slowly getting to the floor@ 175k

at least it wasn't an oldsmobile alero:banghead:

the first time i change the fuel filter after i bought my truck, i bumped the starter so it would fill the canister. 3 bumps later and the canister wasn't even half full! you could hear the pump running...it just wasn't moving fuel...i made it a year before i put the airdog system on

the only reason i thought about it was for the double overdive gears. but the cost is so high...gonna stick with the standard.

the allison and the dodge cummins speak different languages. you would have to find a separate tranny controller. then obvious stuff comes to mind(drive shaft, cross beams, etc)

it should work as long as the pump actually pumps.one time i flushed a buddy's dad's isuzu rodeo's auto trans. it is a sealed unit, so i stuck a length of hose down the dipstick tube and sucked all the old trans fluid out using an old fuel pump of out of a gasser.

DON'T run the boost elbow without a way to fool boost. i found out the hard way as i was pulling a car hauler uphill on the highway on ramp. 4th gear had nothing and i wasn't picking up speed with cars zipping by on a 70mph highway! :banghead: they were honking at me and using swear words:stuned:

don't fix what ain't broke! i don't have any gauges but i change the airdog's filter around 10k

none of these places charged me.(at least in OK they are free, per their policy)

i wonder what these scores would look like with 10k miles on the oil

walmart, oreillys, and autozone will take the oil as long as it doesn't have water in it.

on my 99 2wd the ball joints (upper and lower) were press in. i went with moog "problem solver"....my buddies 94 GMC 2500 4x4 had the ball joints riveted. it wasn't bad after figured out the easy way.use an air hammer to take the head off. then drill them out and then use a punch and hammer to knock'em out. used bolts to hold them on. next time he changes them, its a really fast job

American Petroleum Institute (API) oil selection guide. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=78

check out turbo diesel register's oil analysis of 21 different oils! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=77 what are your opinions? by the way....when i bought truck at 122k it was on rotella. switch to wally world, and now running the valvoline with the C

i have a big line kit on there. my 90* on the VP44 is tapped, so that is where i get my reading.i believe the one on the closest to the front bumper is the one AFTER the filter

well i cannot get the memory of bleeding my airdog out of my head. had the wifey come outside to bump the starter, friend under the truck checking for leaks. fuel came SO FAST that it filled my catch pail, soaked me, covered the front of my truck and ground with probably 2-3 gallons(not counting whats in the bucket)! by that time my friend had his wits back and unpluged the electrical connection under the truck.think about this for a sec. in less time than the pump usually runs, i know i got way more fuel than my VP44 can pump. i can always hear fuel going down the filer neck(witch i wish i wouldn't of cut) and i assume that the majority of fuel takes that path(straight back to the tank). so when they say the AD100 can do <500HP and the AD150 is for >500HP, i believe thats right. now all that fuel circulating might help avoid gelling, cause my truck cold started fine(2F) while my bosses' 3 08 chevy's were dealing with plugged filters.

would you need a new(old) cam if you have an airdog/fass system?

does anyone out there sell a rebuild kit for the steering box?

yes! it is the steering box. i crawled under there 2 days ago and had the wife start and cut the wheels. its leaking from where the ?steering shaft?(from the steering wheel) enters the box. its more than just a drop. i almost had a mouth full:cry:

isx, i am using the same one in the pic. i noticed mine went from bleach white to dingy white in 2-3 months, but i'm not using a prefilter. i've had mine 2yrs now. got it at the local oreilly's, but they over charged me. i had it off last night. the turbo inlet and elbow were clean.

i didn't know someone got pictures of my wedding cake:lmao::lmao2:that's funny......cause i've played horseshoes like that before

read mopar1973man write up about the master/slave and follow it careful and take your time...i pulled the whole system out and bleed the air out of each part as i put it to gether. i didn't use a bench like mopar1973man did. i had someone hold it. some people said they had to pull it a second time to get all the air out(i did not have to). when i put the system back in...the clutch grabbed so high on the pedal, i almost killed it backing up. the pedal is slowly making its way back to the floor. but i didn't replace anything...only removed, bleed, and re-installed. this was around jun-july of last year.

well...internet television is the way of the future...i'm a cable tv contractor and our family does not have cable or satellite. between one dtv convector box and 2 PCs with HSI...we hardly ever miss it! a lot of station stream show to your pc. we have not paid for television in +4 years. verison's fios and att uverse is iptv(i think written by micro$oft).

i agree. even the multi-fuel motors in the old army 5tons added motor oil to gasoline when it was used(to avoid pump wear). it has awful lube properties. that is why so many gassers love lucas' upper cylinder lube and gas treatment.

i went to the local Cummins Southern Plains‎. they didn't stock that filter, so i had to buy the whole case(of 12) once they arrived from Huston, TX. it broke down to about $11.33 a filter.