guesswho512

HPCR = High Pressure Common Rail

several people over the years have told me that 2HI -> 4HI or 4HI->2HI should be done at less than 45mph

if you are going to jack the wheels up and count the rotations, you can also find out if you have an open or limited-slip diff. if the wheels spin the same way, you have a limited-slip. if they spin opposite, it is an open diff. but first check for the sticker under side of the hood or tag on the diff cover. it seems that diff tags often get removed(mine was when i purchased @125k). i think the dealership should be able to look it up from your VIN number also.

this page has instructions how to fix in downloadable .pdf http://www.locknstitch.com/cummins_5_9_block.htm

i understand what you are saying and agree. but both of those systems have some draw backs. i know you and others here have had good fortune with a verity of products and have nothing but good things to say. here is my take on it: TP filters are changed at a much higher frequency and requires "make up" oil. i have read how TP can remove water from the oil(advertised as a benefit). having TPed several houses in my youth, the idea of a TP mess in my engine scares me(brutal honesty). paper is not just paper. TP is meant to dissolve in your septic tank, pleated paper filters are made not to dissolve.(although i SERIOUSLY considered buying a frantz setup). AMSOIL's has a solid system that is reasonably priced. amsoil's system uses spin on filters(i like that), although i am concerned with cost and hassle of shipping or finding one locally in a pinch. it seems some fleetguard centrifuges require filters. the spinner II doesn't. centrifuges filter smaller particles than paper filters. it seems to me that the best filtration could also have the lowest cost of ownership what are you opinions?

Palmer's has a software that does that. you can make a gauge of a lot of things and equations. the software is included the the full version of PCMscan but you can buy it separate. i would run mine all the time if the battery in my laptop lasted more then 55 seconds.

i also have a (chinese imitation) ELM327. i picked it up really cheap! like 15-20 to my front door. just remember that free software is OLD and kinda sucks. Palmer's PCMscan is a good program

on my fuel gauge, (if empty, unloaded) i can get up to 130miles on just the "F" line. by the time i'm at "1/2" line, i usually have 300-350miles. i usually have 420-460 when the fuel light comes on(at 1/8th line).on a side note, these #s didn't change when i had my 33x12.5regul ats mounted on 2piece 16.5 steel humvee rims(VERY HEAVY). i never had the speedo corrected, so i was getting better milage than i am now with the factory size(Yokohama Geolander ATS 245x75r16 on factory rims).

would the one requiring air need the same oil pressure? is the only benefit of the one needing air a smaller output hose? how much air are we talking about? i have a 7 gal air tank that could be mounted for a permanent reserve.

i have been looking at getting a bypass system for my truck. i haven't liked the TP filters or the amsoil system. i have been looking at spinner II and fleetguard, but the oil pressure need to drive centrifuge had worried me. if cummins says that it will work on a ram's 5.9, then i might have found the system i want. will have to wait until i finish my current contract to have the funds.

i still owe smokeythedodge a beer(or shot or whiskey)....give me a call next time your around I35-I240 area.

those gauges are ON his iPHONE. he is monitoring live data from the quadzillayou can get the iphone app form itunes, i believe.

Engine Speed: 92-102 RPMsmotor mounts won't be as big of a problem as the transmission that can use this narrow band to make highway speed.

i installed my airdog using pureflow's instructions and mopar1973man's suggestion about the draw straw. i can take my gauge to the E line with no problem.

isx...what do you need me to get for you? i thought the 24 valves had different pistons.

i'm glad this has help several people. i would like to mention that the tools in the 1st pic is all the tools i used from the time the truck stopped til she fired up good 10 times.

so post a pic and so info about it.

10 in the case, one qt in the filter = 11qts i know you can do simple math...i'm just being a

this is a review of popular brands of diesel oils and how they rated in TDR's test: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=77 i run valvoline blue with the cummins "C" and Donaldson Endurance filters (ELF7349) they are more pricey, but filter the smallest particles. i have run fram,wix, and the walmart mopar filters in the past.

my buddy buried his truck doing stuff like the movies.....94 GMC 2500 with 350 V8. he drove toward the lake and was going to fish tail it around, put the rears in the water and sling a little water. the whole thing just sank...had some strangers not shown up with beer and a come-a-long the truck would have still been in the water when the park ranger strolled by

this book is for the 98.5-04, so it should be the same. here's that link to the book. /downloads.php?do=file&id=174">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=174 page 6 shows what the box came with. that book tells you to skip the factory fuel can. the kit doesn't come with the hardware to do it. i got the "big line kit" from vulcan and it was (2) 12mm x -08JIC(or was it -06JIC?), (1) pushlock 90*, (1) 1/8" tapped 90*, and 12 inches of 1/2"fuel line.