rancherman

I run on my own land, with land-owners' permit. I'd like to see game and parks give the actual land owners first 'stab' at getting quarry (the ones that have been eating their crops all year, besides paying taxes on the land under their hooves..) before opening it up to 'outsiders'.. (the one's that turn hunting into a stampede/running of the bulls) Give us the first full weekend, then open the flood gates! how many use 'high hide' type shooting stations? They look like Vietnam prison camp guard towers

My wood pile is dwindling.. have to figure out how to keep the frost off my puter screen soon!

I sat with a neighbor last winter and called in a nice bobcat. He weighed about 32# during deer season, I pretty much hide in our fallout shelter.. (and drive around looking for trespassers who insist on never closing a gate) Coon, white tail, turkey, coyote, muley, bobcat (in that order) is what's lurking around outside my house. I'm a little too far east for antelope. A teen about 40 miles from here shot and killed a lion during deer season... (self defense) We do have slim pickings on pheasant.... seems like when there are lots of turkeys around, they destroy pheasant nests. (coons too) I really would prefer to 'call' in the critter.. Nothing excites me more than seeing a yote trotting over the hill towards me! This winter has seen pretty good fur, last 2 or 3 years has been pretty nasty/mangy/half dead starved yotes! They been bringing 20-40$ I'm with WF... give me a nice fat young doe! Last year we had terrible blue tongue disease game and parks estimated 75% kill......and I've been dodging bones out in our pastures ever since... But, I haven't put venison in the freezer for a long time now... but that don't mean my cars/pickups haven't been successful at 'thinning the herd'.. :banghead:

LOL, to tell ya the truth..... when I DON'T see a little seepage, that's when I get worried!!! Most of my crap is old enough to vote... and possibly draw pension... And when I see something suddenly 'dry up'.... time to get the jug(s) out!

well, If you can't see any signs of leakage, I can guess why it was low! urban legend has it that running a little low can save fuel. I said in above post that there may have been a little ATF added at some point.... again to help out with economy... They may have some merit, but I don't like to take chances intentionally! Glad you got it drained out and filled up with the good stuff!

is there any way to see if the vane pump pressure is regulated/protected? (excess thrown into main body or head return?) whoops, I might of posted that a little quick! some vane pumps can be self regulating.... or utilized as 'on demand' type pumps. Pressure, or lack of, can 'adjust' how aggressive the vanes are in the pump body

40 degrees and flash flood warnings yesterday..... what next? seems like every 10-15 years they'll see way above temps, whilst the east coast is way below average. Oh, sure, propane is going up 'cause of the shortage. I filled early last week, @ 1.85 gallon, It's 2.10 now, and might push dang near 3.00 by end of month.

Thanks for the update.... so many times advice is given out, and I kinda like to hear how the advice was used.... and if it was effective!

For the unlucky few who may have a dud air dog or fass laying around, (as in bad motor or wore out pump)... re-use just the filter/air separation part as part of a belt driven system? Seems like everything is self contained/sourced. your water/air separation, regulator.... just remove the motor and gut the pump, block off/seal and presto? (ok, would have to move it downstream of the belt driven pump).. I've bled out my eyes reading hundreds of posts over on CF about the dtt guy promising a cheap diy 'kit'.... which eventually ended up as his ' COMPLETE' setup. He drew me in with 'cheap Grainger sourced gear pump..... and with his bracket , pulley and hose kit... he dangled ~300 or less in total cost. Well, that thread was about 4 yrs ago, and he was simply trying to duplicate the mitusa system, but cheaper. I burned up most of my daily bandwidth chasing down his thread.... only to see it evolve into his dtt assassin. ~600 bucks is a long ways from his original 300!!! Just thinking about continuing on with his original 'diy' belt driven system... I probably have a lot of hardware laying around not being used!

if this truck was purchased used, hard to tell how many different oils have been 'added' over the years... and if they are even compatible with was in there in the first place! (I suspect someone put a little auto trans fluid in yours!) You did the right thing and dropped it all, and started over with fresh (and correct type) I'll even park the truck so the pumpkin will drain out easier, uphill for rear, downhill for front. Take a hand sprayer full of diesel fuel, and douse the whole works out. (works better in warmer climes, gear oil don't want to 'cut' when its 0 degrees..) mop out the bottom of the pumpkin... and close her up. no doubt sucking it out the fill hole is faster, but you'd never see any 'badness' (filings, chunks etc) unless you take the cover off, and expose the whole thing

ah bill, ya beat me to it!

Has anyone noticed on these drain back concerns... I'd bet the guys who are seeing NO oil at the time of filter spin-off have already dropped their sump oil. (usually hot oil at the time I'd venture too) and with all the claims that synthetic oil 'flows faster' at cold temps gotta make it flow faster @ temp too?? See where I am going with this? Drop the sump, you lower the 'head' level in the pickup tube.. oil upstream GOTTA go somewhere HOT synthetic (under pressure) makes a wonderful lube no doubt. But it does not behave like mineral oil in a 'hold by vacuum' cohesiveness? not sure of the right term here.. Kick this around a bit.

ok, now that I've got some serious searching done on 'yotas'..(yah, I just bought one...sue me ha) I see their 4cyl diesel 1vz te has VERY similar IP to the vp 44. It's similarly controlled (timing and fuel amount) with inputs from IAT, exaust temp, boost, and throttle position. via ecm. lookin at it you'd swear its a mini version of our VP44 (horizontal rotary with a little 'box' with wires on top) NO, this motor was never allowed in the states.. too bad for us, the consumer, but GOOD for the big three!

shut off the engine, and if it slips right into gear... well, there ya go. Mike is right, input is still turning. Now you have to see why. Sprung hub, friction material balled up, warped disk, bad master/slave, wore out release bearing and/or fork (my fork was shot a couple years ago... same symptoms as you).

I think 2005 was the first year for emission control for off road applications.. and that'd be well into the CR technology.

good point! I think you are right, the first computerized cummins in a tractor (I've seen) has the cp3 and cr system.

I run Conoco fleet 15w40... in everything I own... gas, diesel, four wheelers motor cycles.. you name it. but I'm probably close to 10-15 degrees warmer here on average. You bet, it takes time for full pressure to 'read' at the gauge, but I'd really like to know if it's actually that low for that long! Our stock sending unit's moving part gotta be stiff as a board, and it's gotta take time for it to actually move its rheostat to indicate pressure.. but I see you have isspro, and are they mechanical? I have a tractor with about 4 foot of mechanical oil pressure line, and it takes a few minutes for it to sweep up to 80 @ idle. There is a lot of stiff oil in that tiny line.. which never really warms up.... no doubt the synthetic will flow quicker, but I really think your indicated pressure isn't quite as slow as you fear..

I think most industrial apps are not pushing the engine to the max... probably 100-150 hp for most continuous duty situations... and that is ~5 gallons per hour....I guarantee you they don't have 5/16ths supply line either! and the other possibility is industrial apps usually have the fuel tank above the engine.(and it's usually only 1 or 2 feet away) A combine harvester is the only machine I can think of that has to draw from below. (not aware of anyone using a cummins on a combine anyway)

I am bone stock, and am running a fass 02. It's rated for 18 psi, which so far it's maintaining. It uses the factory bracket and wiring.

if your fuel was gelled a month and a half ago....and you haven't run it since.... 20 degrees won't be enough.. no matter how much 'additive' you put in the tank. It takes sloshing around and warmth to really re liquefy. 'that' alone makes it hard to do when truck won't start!! I'm assuming your fuel was hit by earlier sub zero temps, and it just now warmed up to 20! I had pretty bad icing problem in early December, but that was my own fault, and my bulk tank here on the ranch. (pump ran, but no fuel to the filter) Since then, I've replaced the pump... Try blowing (little bursts of compressed air) backward through the supply-line-to-tank (take off the fuel cap first) to make sure you don't have frozen water plugging the line, or at least a slug of 'snot' in the line or draw tube... Ive blown backwards into many of my tractor tanks for several minutes to mix additives/clear out the pickup tube. Again, REMOVE THE FUEL CAP FIRST!! BTW, does the factory draw tube use a sock?? never had mine out! That could be smeared over with gel too!

yah, my no-good-son-in-law bought one this fall. He's always talking up the great fuel economy, and how impressive it's power is... evidence he leaves on the highway (peel-out rubber) every time he visits us... grrrr. ( "come on, let me take ya for a ride! I'll show you just how fast this thing really is'') *Pass, I don't want to have to walk home* I also know a Ford service guy, he says they've been getting all the hours they wish ever since the ecoboost been introduced!

:lmao:ISX...... "an ecoboost running 80 pulling a TT?? He Must've been GOING WITH THE WIND!

Yah... I see my error in my post about ohm'n the 'power supply to ground'. I didn't say where to apply the first probe! I also said 'it should read zero'. duh.. Me Bad! ( Open circuits have infinity resistance) *smacks head* After disconnecting the harness (from the relay) put a probe on the terminal of the relay that supplies 12 volts to the pump.. and the other probe to any good ground. It should not move the needle, or digital meter should not move toward zero. Then, just for giggles, you could jumper the terminal that triggers the solenoid ONLY...... and see if having it energized changes anything. (same again, OPEN circuit) If any continuity at all, there is a short in the relay. As long as the relay isn't supplied with 12v to the 'line in' terminal, You'll be safe to ohm the 'line out' terminal and ground. Now, to the guy who has it pop the fuse even when it's jumpered, It's time for a motor/pump

is the fuse inline like this; 12v battery-------------fuse-----------relay---------------------pump motor or 12vbattery------------------relay-----fuse-----------------------pump motor I am guessing it's like the top example..... if bottom, your truck would be a cinder by now (if bad relay) I didn't know if the ad harness used a fuse in the trigger wire to help protect the ecm.. I'd disconnect the harness, and measure ohms from supply- to- pump and ground. It should be zero.

oh man, it's been howling here since 2 am.. I would've sworn we were in the middle of a blizzard, but nary a flake came today.. other than corn leaves blowing around and drifting all over just like snow! been 45-50 mph sustained and gusts to near 70 all day long.