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rancherman

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Everything posted by rancherman

  1. OUR terminal get fuel via pipeline straight from the refineries 'down south'. It arrives pretty 'hot', and the turnover is pretty fast. fuel in the huge vessels would take a long time to chill, even at sub zero temps. I've seen countless tankers dumping their loads without a bit of snow or ice on the tanks... when the tractor is plastered from the trip. I stood there and watched a driver hand the owner the invoice, it was figured on weight, temperature, to give expected gallons actually dumped in the undergrounds. Unfortunately, 'dump and pray' is about all we have around 'here'. Otherwise, why are there thousands of cases of 'treatment' being sold each year in my county alone!
  2. after I got the knuckle off, I just torched off the studs, and pressed out the top first, then the bottom. I had the force screw pointed up on the top, and pointed down on the lower. Same with re install. Putting the force screw through the top hole is way too mis aligned... no way should you try to press anything with that much mis alignment, and expect a nice- smooth- non - galled- round hole later.
  3. well, I got the passenger side joints in tonight. Moog problem solvers. They actually pressed in a tad easier than removing the old. I couldn't tell you if it was because of the slight rust and dryness of the old joint... or the clean hole and light oil on the new joint The lower moogs are knurled. Even though they went in a little easier, I am satisfied they are WELL PLANTED! I had to use a 4 foot cheater pipe on the press to remove them.. and still had to pull like an ape to get them moving. Putting back in was just the 18 inch breaker pulling maybe 100 lbs. Mikes truck is coming up on 240k on the second set? Mine is exactly those same miles.. and is getting it's balls changed first time
  4. makes me wonder how many more times a rebuilder would've just have re sealed it, and boxed it up for the next victim! He said it seemed ok at 700 psi, but when he kicked it up to 1200.. flood city. Ryan is sending me a good '3 turn' gear. So far, I'm impressed with his honesty! I learned that these Saginaw boxes all pretty much have the same internals, it's the case that is different on various applications. (which is junk on mine) Which makes the 'case' the most expensive part!
  5. I have, as long as the gasket isn't rusty, eroded. Should be ok I think I've even sprayed a light layer of permatex copper head gasket sealer on the gasket (on a not-so-good gasket) and got by.
  6. lets narrow the sound down! How 'fast' is the individual 'clunks' tell us when driving say, 25 mph, is it clunk-clunk-clunk, evenly spaced? Then you say it sounds like a small gear getting buzzed off.. which to me could be a high frequency 'rip'..
  7. our transport loads are treated at point of delivery. Meaning, when they dump at the filling station, or the bulk tanks for the tanker delivery guy. This is only true for the winterization part. Not sure at the point they make a generic fuel a 'branded' fuel: mobil, Conoco, BP,.. This is probably done when the transporter is filled.
  8. you still thinking the noise is 'ringing' from the cad housing? If so, I'd suspect the passenger side first. Noise will bing down those shafts and come out any ol place too. But to come clear from the drivers side, through the differential, and resonating out the cad housing is pushing it a little far... nothing is impossible though! Does it change (noise) any at all if turning sharp, or driving straight? How bout reverse?
  9. WesHawkins and TFaoro... are these two battling the same problems?
  10. this was kicking my rear, so I went straight to the source! Josh @ fuelab says: We use a DC brushless motor. Most of our pumps (all of the inline as well the 200gph diesel) have three terminals- power, ground, and speed control. If the speed control terminal is grounded, the pump will be in reduced speed mode (depending on pump model 50%-70%). If you take the ground away from the speed control terminal, the pump will operate in full speed. You can obviously control this with just about any kind of switch you can think of- toggle, boost, rpm, etc. If you want variable speed out of the pump rather than just high/low, you can send a 500hz-1500hz PWM signal to the speed control terminal. We also have an electronic fuel pressure regulator for EFI applications that will give you variable speed out of the pump based on what the regulator sees in the return line (essentially, the pump is commanded to only run as fast as it needs to in order to maintain whatever base pressure you have set). Our 100gph diesel kits are only single speed though. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks, Josh Davis Marketing, Sales, & Tech Support
  11. well, someone is lying then. A brushless motor needs some sort of controller to convert dc to ac, either digitally or analog. So fuel lab's either internal controlled, or they are full of crap.
  12. the side that didn't hold... was the fork still moving, which gave the illusion of it not holding? ( once the diaphragm hits the other side, then vacuum would build) another way to test would be to have the cad off the axle, and put your finger over the nipples.. then see if you can move the fork back and forth. you would get pressure on one side, and vacuum on the other. you may have a rusted out canister on one side of the diaphragm, which only works in one direction then. That's why I'd be leary on even giving you mine!
  13. see, just your location gives you much more info that I'd ever have access to. You could probably throw a rock and hit someone 'in the know' or even blood related to ol king Richard himself!... or at least know someone that knows someone!
  14. next time you have the cad off, push up and down on the end of the shaft (the shaft going out to the u-joint) It should be near solid to the inner shaft. Wiggle the connector collar too, it may be blown out
  15. I'm too lazy to read back through 12 pages of this thread.. did he ever check his pushrods being bent?
  16. all brushless motors need a controller. And they use 3 wires. our LP's are all brushed.
  17. +1 ^^^ You sure the clunking is from the lp itself? Can you grab the relay while someone is cranking? you'd feel a 'thunk' when it engages. Most 'bad' relays would be their ground, (does yours have a dedicated ground wire, or is it grounded through the case?) Then the relay itself, (internally, coil related) then the signal wire. This is where a indicator light in the cab would come in handy. it'd tell you what the lp is seeing for current. Is the noise sporadic, or kinda evenly spaced? if sporadic, I'd think it's loose/corroded type connections.... more evenly spaced could be 'heat/load induced' open circuit scenario.
  18. Update! FINALLY found the correct parts... man! what a struggle. Dealer was clueless on how to even find which axle I KNEW I HAD!! I even had the build tag in my hand! (Dana bill of parts)... Down the road! next stop, a transmissions shop I've trusted for years... HE needed the VIN number. ugggggg Back home behind my trusty laptop! http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/attachments/98-5-02-powertrain/328490d1421691799-dana-60-rebuild-question-99-01-spicer-axles-60-front-bom.pdf http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/attachments/98-5-02-powertrain/328498d1421691799-dana-60-rebuild-question-99-01-spicer-axles-60-front-exploded-view.pdf These downloads will give the 98.5- 2002 dana axle exploded view, parts numbers (all Dana/spicer #'s) for ALL years, and plugging THOSE numbers into a search gave me exactly what I need! It was a sneaky and tedious way to come up with actual part numbers, but dang it! I WON!! Innermost axle disconnect shaft, Bushing, and outer shaft... yes, that was buggered too. My stub shaft is fine. Yesterday, I would've been forced to buy a complete outer axle, ~375 bucks, had no idea if the inner output shaft was even available, and no clue about some sort of bushing! Tonight, I'm looking at 165 for the inner shaft, 175 for the outer shaft, 5 bucks for the bushing... 345 plus shipping. Yea! I believe I justified this month's internet bill!
  19. Thanks guys. After talking with Ryan @ bluetop, I think I'll give em a whirl. He explained how he corrects for wear in the worm gear using slightly larger recirculating balls... Which very very few rebuilders do. He also uses a higher quality bearing in the output shaft. Oh, Bill, he didn't act like he 'knew' you? LOL, does he owe you money?? Looks like $179 plus shipping. Which is about 50 bucks more than the cardone unit.
  20. Well, the Cardone unit I put in 18 months ago is leaking like a sieve. The output shaft is loose. I noticed it was pretty wet when dismantling the front end last week. After disconnecting the pitman arm link, I can wiggle the shaft about 1/4 inch, and fluid is pouring out. Anyone recommend a GOOD rebuilder? In the Rockauto site, the "Lares Corp" unit has a little 'heart', meaning it's popular. (cheapest too) Should I try that one? They offer ATSCO, Cardone, ACdelco, and Mopar rebuilt.
  21. hey, just for giggles, before you re install the cad, stuff a rag back into the opening, fire up the engine, and visually see if the shift fork is moving in and out. (hook up the vacuum and electrical again)
  22. I think I'm missing a bushing that goes into the end of the axle.. and the smaller end of the intermediate goes into. it'd support the axle, and allow it to flex when the steering turns. It's probably plastic, and long gone. Back to searching parts books..
  23. lmao... I just couldn't imagine you dragging the whole front axle over to the shop press!!
  24. Got a POSI-LOK on the way! should be here Tues. It's a cable actuated shifter. I think it was about 165 bucks. A new vacuum actuator is 90...
  25. You may want to read my latest findings on my ball joint thread... I found some issues that relates to an earlier thread of mine, "slow to engage 4X4" Was your popping noise when in 4X4? and was the indicator light solidly ON? The only time that light will come on is when the shift fork is COMPLETELY 'home'.