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I have a custom CAN bus device (particle photon + CAN transceiver) plugged into the IHS bus on a 2018 Ram 2500. I'm attempting to find the codes to preform actions like: door lock/unlock mirror retract/extend start/stop engine I see all kinds of codes come across the bus, but have not zeroed in on exactly which ones I need. Does anyone have access to documentation on what the IHS codes are that can share? My purpose is to make my own remote control system (particle electron) instead of paying XM Guardian $250 a year for it. I figured I own the vehicle so I should be able to make my own electronics to talk to. I also was hoping to add functionality to my device like automatically retract the mirrors when I press lock or other similar items.

Does anyone know what this orange wire goes to? In the schematic it looks like 5v.

Changing my manual mirrors to power, heated, and lighted. I know doors are pre-wired for the power/heated and I've already added the mirror control swtich and the temp control with heated button. My question is if anyone knows if there is lights-on power source inside the door. Looking to avoid running wires through the dash to the light switch.

Hi, Spotted these 2 connectors, 1 grey, and 1 black coming out of harness near left front side of engine. Black has what appears to be 2 contacts, and grey has 3 contacts. Picture is taken from ground, left side looking up. Thanks. Leaky

Hey guys, this is my first post but I have read a lot on this forum and have found help several times here. My issue now seems to be something in the electrical system causing some weird torque converter symptoms. First off, I have a 1998.5 Dodge 2500 4x4 24 valve with 177,000 miles and a 47re that has been built with a BD Stage 3 kit along with a single disk billet converter that has roughly 22,000 miles on it. It has ran flawlessly up until about a week ago. My issue is very consistent. I can take off with normal throttle from a stop and the transmission will shift perfectly 1st through 4th gear and the torque converter will lock perfectly at around the 45 MPH mark (not sure of exact speed due to 35" tires and speedo not being calibrated), and from there I can accelerate to highway speeds anywhere from 50 - 65 miles an hour with no issue. My issue occurs the second that I let off the throttle and let it idle as if I were coming to a stop and braking. The torque converter will unlock as normal, but for instance if I am going 60 mph and let the throttle go idle for even a split second and then give it more throttle to continue driving, the torque converter never even thinks about locking back up, it will simply rev high in 4th gear and drive. If I do come to a stop (or slow enough to downshift into 3rd), I can resume and shift back into 4th and the torque converter will once again lock until I get off the throttle. Basically, the converter will not lock more than one instance per 4th gear shift. It has never done this before, as normal operation would be that the torque converter locks back up after resuming throttle. My truck has two brand new batteries less than a month old with new and cleaned terminals and I have verified that all plugs on the transmission are clean and firmly pressed into each socket and all grounds are properly connected. Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 2005 ram 3500 5.9 ran perfectly fine up to the day I parked it let it sit for a few months as I drive tractor trailer went to start and all I get is fass fuel pump. no gauges at all and no crank I have no clue as to the problem can someone help?

I have been considering installing a blocking diode for Alternative energy production to prevent AC Noise from screwing things up. 1600V*100A=160kW which is far more than our trucks output. This means that I could install it between the alternator and the power block to protect all electrical components easily and cost effectively. Installing a diode eliminates the possibility of AC current because it only allows current to flow one way. I would install it between the power block and the alternator then heat shrink to prevent electrical hazards. Another option I have thought of is creating a diode bridge, however, it is difficult to find diodes with the capability of handling the current output. The only benefit to a bridge is that it would eliminate spikes due to having half of the AC wave. I don't think the average 1 max 2 volt spike will effect the electrical so much. Have a look at what I am talking about http://www.ebay.com/itm/1600V-Volt-100A-Amp-Wind-Turbine-Generator-Solar-Panel-PV-Stud-Blocking-Diode-/201025568109

I need some help. I run a 2001 3500 2w drive dually 5 sp pulling a 40 gn trailer. Starting friday afternoon, my truck would get sudden power loses, usually in 5th gear. It will surge several times then resume operating normally. I might drive several hundred miles then out of the blue it will start surging again. I depress the clutch to see if it dies but it just goes to idle. When it's running right there is no problem, no lose of power and no misses. This is what I have done to it since march, I've put in a new lift pump, we have some wiring issues to the lift pump which was corrected and the block pump is completely out of the picture. The lift pump is an in tank model. I checked the lift pump on Saturday and it's putting out 15psi at idle and 13psi at 2000rpm. The only code I get is a 1593 but when I put my odbII reader on it it shows no codes. I have replaced the TPS couple of months ago, I got new bosch 40 horse injectors with new fuel tubes. I would say that there may be a short in the electrical to the pump but it would die when I clutched it but it doesn't just goes to idle with no misses, normal rpm. I am wondering if the lift pump is going bad and is slowing down causing the pressure to drop, the engine can idle on lower fuel pressure but not run higher. I'm at a lose, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Ok my dash indicator for the 4wd is flickering. It comes on when engaged and takes a long time to go out when out of 4wd. It appears to be out since I can not feel the feedback in the steering wheel. It did not have this problem last time I checked it. I just got the truck a couple of months ago. My cruise control works, it does seem to take a little time to change modes but not really long and i have no reference to another truck. I do not have the vac solenoid on the front axle on my truck. Any thoughts? Thanks

Hi all. I'm wondering if I'm headed in the right direction here:Yesterday while out and around I noticed the Edge comp was reading 0 boost continuously. At one point while accelerating it started jumping between 0 and 15 psi, which I could definitely feel, pulled hard while it read boost, then felt and sounded like it was lugging when 0 boost. Took it home and checked for way obvious stuff, unpluggled connectors, damaged wires, found nothing. Decided to take it to Autozone to have the codes pulled and on the way there the Edge started squawking an alarm that the boost was running at 40 psi, and did it when I let off the throttle to slow down.The only code that came out of it was P0236 "Turbocharger boost sensor circuit, range or performance problem; MAP sensor voltage too high for too long." Well gee, no kidding. :rolleyes2:So I'm inferring that the comp is reading boost from the MAP sensor? Is cleaning the sensor as described on this site likely to help, or just fork out the hundred bucks for a new one? Any other suspects I should be looking at?Thanks in advance

Got a p0216 code on the truck. :confused: Sounds like the pocket book is getting a hole in it. Thanks for all the help.

Hey,Well I've got my new VP, power steering pump, and 150 hp (Jkidd) injectors installed!! I'm still trying to get the ps bled, but that's a different issue!! My question is this:I don't have my Edge Comp box tapped into the pump due to me wanting to make sure everything would be good to go before doing that! Would that cause the truck to throw an P0238 code and put the truck into limp mode??? I say limp mode b/c it doesn't seem to have much power, the EGTs won't get above 650-700* with my foot to the floor and boost won't get above 12-15 psi!!!!!I've tried to clear the code but it just seems to come right back as soon as I clear it!!!Also the code comes up twice. Once as P0238, the other as P0238 pending!! What does that mean??Thanks,Winslow

Where to start.. 2001 dodge 2500 144,000 miles BHAF, Mia silencer ring, 5in exhaust, 35 in tires. I just bought this truck 2 weeks ago went and test drove it everything good but the abs light was on he said he would get it fixed before he gave it to me and it was but now the speedo is stuck on 26mph but will go back to 0 when i turn the truck off. I tried the cluster test hoping it would fix it or something but still the same thing and it read no codes during that. Now with the codes i have been doing my homework and looking around to try and figure this out myself but not to sure where the best place to start with so much wrong. I did this through the odometer trick. PPCU codes P0122- Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS)Signal Voltage Too Low / APPS voltage input below the minimum acceptablevoltage P0622- Generator Field Not Switching Properly /An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit. P1693- DTC Detected in Companion Module / A fault has been generated in the companion engine control module. P1765- Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay CTRL Circuit /An open or shorted condition is detected in the Transmission Relay control circuit. This relay suppliespower to the TCC PECU codes P1693- DTC Detected in Companion Module / A fault has been generated in the companion engine control module P0230- Transfer Pump (Lift Pump) CircuitOut of Range / Problem detected in fuel transfer pump circuits. Also why driving it is not shifting right from i think 3rd to fourth going to 2 grand before it will shift or i have to let off and barely get back on, and also while going into over drive wot it will rev all the way to 3 grand and not shift unless i let off. So my guess it the APPS sensor is either bad or i need to do this ats trick i found here https://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/120505/4th%20hunt%2046%2047%20RE.pdf but i dont really want to start hacking into wires right now. Or is the altenator bad?? one more thing is there a relay located on the transmission or is it in with the fuses?? Any and all help would be highly apreciated!!!

Sooo I gotta go help this guy because I know his daughter and ehhh. Anyhow, he went to autozone and got a new battery, wonderful kid there crossed the leads and fried the battery. Think he said they put another battery in, correctly, and it started 3 times so he drove it home. He gets home, inspects the battery and finds the negative lead loose, he puts a shim in it to get it tight and gets in and "click".Says the hood light and dome light are on, nothing else works. I am thinking he fried the other battery which they didn't replace and between it and the new battery it had enough to start 3 times and then it just lived off the alternator, but slowly died on the way home until finally killing itself which is why he has nothing now. I am betting they fried the 120amp fuse as well. But that's as far as I know to check, as well as all the other fuses. It is a VP44 truck, dont ask me any more info lol. Gonna go over and kick it tomorrow but would like to know some more on what I should be checking before I go over and leave him without an answer as to what the issue is should my 12valver tactics not work.

Hi Guys, I'm new here real nice site. I came here looking for some info and hopefully some help or direction as i'm really struggling with dead gauges and a no bus odometer on my new to me '01 2500 4x4 5 speed. This truck has been rode hard and put up wet way too many times, but the drive train seems to be in decent shape and it'll work good as my farm truck. What I've done so far is remove and clean the bolted connector several times in the under hood fuse box, I have also removed and cleaned the under dash by the clutch main connector. I have tried to get codes but the only thing retrievable is 900 920 921 when I do a cluster check, all the gauges function when I do a instrument panel check. The idiot lights were all on while the gauges were not working until I cleaned the main harness plug by the clutch. Now I have no idiot lights except the low fuel and check engine. They do come on briefly when I first switch on the ignition key but after the bulb check at startup they go off. Sorry for the long intro and post but I am stumped. Thanks, Mike2995 --- Update to the previous post... A couple other thoughts I had on this problem, the previous owner said someone stole the transfer case out of it while it was parked at his business and it sat for about a year until he got it replaced. Also If there is a way to get the gauges working but still have no bus in the odometer that would be fine with me, I don't care about the mileage but do need the gauges and tack to work. thanks

Well, I wound up buying a new VP44. Ouch!! Now I have a whole new problem. Twice it has happened to me and once to my daughter that when the ignition is in the on position no dash lights appear nor does the engine turn over. There is no power at the ignition at all. The batteries are 2 weeks old and are Interstate 1000 CA. Any help would be appreciated as I am leaving on a 3500 km trip this coming Sunday pulling a 32ft trailer!! Help!! Arcwelder --- Update to the previous post... Oops!! Truck is a 01 QC 2wd.

Okay, so as far as I can tell this fiasco started with my cab lights. What happend is I was using my power seat fuse to tap into for pwr. I had my neg terminal disconnected but sometime during the event it made contact without me knowing:doh:. While i was hiding the pwr wire under the dash it grounded and blew a few fuses. My pwr mirrors, door locks, interior light, pwr seat, and speed cntrl on wipers (low and high still work), ODB II port (cant clear codes), and high beam indicator:banghead:. The fuses it blew in the cab were:#1 15A park lamp#4 10A pwr amp#5 5A illum#12 10A IOD#13 10A pwr lock#14 10 A cluster B The fuses in the PDC was the 40A trailer (grn) fuse. So after replacing all of the dead fuses they are all still not getting pwr from the PDC (or where ever it comes from) the hot side of the fuses are all dead. All of the fuses and relays in the PDC are good and passing pwr. The #6 25A wiper is still good but again the the intermitant speed/delay does not function just low and high. I have pulled the codes from the odometer and they read as follows: PCU: 0622 Altenator field not switching properly, p0122 TPS low voltage, p1687 No cluster bus message, p1765 Trans 12v supply relay cnt cir. ECU: p0236 MAP Sensor too high too long, p0237 MAP Sensor Voltage too low, p0382 Intake Air heat relay #2 cntl cir. I reset the APPS and I am no longer getting the p0122 code but the rest are still prevalent. Your thoughts are welcome, I have no idea where to start for sure thinking it is something between the fuse box and the PDC. PLEASE HELP, and sorry for the long post.

Well if Cummins cant fix it it's doomed to fall of a clif. I took truck to cummins to let them try. Well if I had stock injectors he said they could search for leaks by pressure the system. And there stock injectors are about 500.00 each, thats what he said,I dont know. They did the usual routine stuff, hook up scanner and the usual stuff came up NOTHING. They seemed sure that the crossover tubes where leaking and one may have been. It runs a little diff. but miss is still there. Here is where I am at,new DDP 50 HP injectors, ECM,Apps,crossover tubes, cam sensor, VP Blue Chip, Head rebuilt, Starter, Alternator, water pump, thermostat & sensor, new airdog 150 with quick connects, rotors pads, drums shoes, drive shaft, ujoints, carrier bearing, kyb shocks, tires good, 2 year south bend clutch, edge ez, bd intake, gauges, 5 inch exhaust, power steer pump,ball joints, turbo the oldest thing on truck 4 years. new batts. switched out wire harrness. What you give me for it? lmao One positive thing is he is sure the head gasket not blown. lol I guess I will just drive a truck with a miss for ever. This is a real pisser.You mean this truck cant be fixed?At the end of my rope, I cant see spending another dime. 7K In 8 months.Mapp and ait the only thing not changed.

Here you go gang! I compiled a full wiring diagram PDF file for you to all enjoy for your 2002 Dodge Trucks. This is a heck of alot easier to read compared to the Dodge FSM manual that is just good old black and white. Go here to get it! https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/