Search the Community

Can anyone offer a suggestion as to why my fuel mileage is so poor, I have played with several different tunes on my quadzilla and still can’t get over 14 on the highway. I’m running 35 in tires. I’ve heard it could be injection pump but it was replaced not to long ago and it’s been running great so it’s hard to believe that’s the problem. I’m also on stock injectors

Since @Me78569 and company have the tuning thread for performance side. I'm going to start the ecomony and MPG thread for the Quadzilla Adrenaline. I'll be posting up my MPG logs and all data I can provide of what I've got going on. I've been keeping hand math logs of all fuel purchased as well as my tablet running OBDII link LX and data logging from that direction too. I'll share my tunes and settings as well. QUADZILLA TUNES CURRENTLY LOADED (Check back often file is updated at random times) Quadzilla Ardrenaline.xlsx

Evening Gals and Gents, Having Issues with my Scangauge. It doesn't report load(LOD) correctly. It's showing 0 LOD at idle. This results in 0.0 GPH at idle. I have contacted Scangauge and am currently emailing with them to hopefully find the problem. For those of you with a Scangauge what do you show for GPH and LOD at idle? How is LOAD calculated? I can even see 0 LOD when TPS is greater than 0. I found this out while coasting downhill in neutral and slowly pressing throtle down. I do have codes stored: 0622, 0743, 1595, 1765 I believe most of those codes were related to the Mystery Switch Lockup control Other Known Problems are Alternator VAC to high(cycles between 0.065-0.156 at idle) Thanks! Currently running a 2002 Ram Cummins 2500 Quad Cab Automatic. Mostly stock except RP-100 and edge programmer.

DODGE 2012 HO CUMMINS Hello everyone. It appears the forums are not as busy as they once were. I was hoping to create this forum for owners of the 2012 Dodge 6.7 HO. I believe this will be a good place for owners of this rig to share tips, tricks, service manual links or anything else related to this year specifically. 2012 HO, 4x4 4:10 gears, auto.

Ok, so here's the deal. I took my truck on a 1200 mile round trip to see family for thanksgiving, and on the way there the truck ran great. I averaged 19.67 MPG, but I was empty and not pulling a trailer. So then on the way back I was pulling a 24 foot flatbed trailer hauling a steel flatbed that I am going to put on my truck (weighs a couple hundred pounds). The truck had no power and got 10.32 MPG on the return trip. Also the ABS and BRAKE lights are now on and when I rev above 2300 RPM's I can hear a hissing noise from behind the dash, it sounds like it is comming from right behind the airbag on/off switch area, but it is hard to tell for sure (also it makes this noise even in neutral revving the engine).I also noticed that I was getting no black smoke at all, not even when I would go into a long hill and push the throttle all the way, it almost feels like I don't have any throttle after 3/4. I was having to down shift, and barely dragging over the top at 45-50 on hills that I usually pull in 5th at 70-75. So I stopped and looked things over and found nothing obvious wrong, so I unhooked my van aken chip to see if that changed anything, it didn't seem to make any difference, actually maybe a little less power if anything.At first I thought that I wasn't getting any boost pressure (I don't have a gauge on it), but if that is the case I should have black smoke. It feels like it isn't getting enough fuel maybe.Any ideas of what I should be looking at would be greatly appreciated, because I have to take it again this weekend on a snowmobiling trip.Thanks in advance Oh, I also pulled the codes and only got a P1693 code, I can't get the cheap code reader that I borrowed to show the companion codes that would go along with the P1693 code.

Changed out vp44 a while back and cant belive the fuel mileage increse.Went from 15 mpg to 18mpg,truck is heavy 9900LBS

Yea. As of today I had to drop my sub-level again. Getting to smokey as summer time started coming on and noticing more and more smoke as I would be towing and/or launching with a heavy foot. I'm wondering if others have notices anything like this with warmer weather? No ill-effect to MPG's at all but the smoke level is slightly higher now than was during the winter time. I'm also wondering is the injectors changing for like a break in process and flowing more?

In Sept. I started having problems in my 98.5 with the torque converter at about 40 mph,tack dying, and sometimes no start every time. Milage dropped from 19 to 16. Dorkweed? said it was the crank position sensor. I was working 6 12's and driving 150 miles to work. I drove it until mid Dec. when I had time to fix it. It drives like a charm now, check engine light is off. Milage is still at 16. I think I need some more advice on the mpg.

I know there are a lot of people wondering about where the "sweet" spot is on the cummins for mileage and I am here to tell you that there is no sweet spot. Speed kills. I have ran numerous tests and proven that every 5mph gain costs you 2mpg. A while back I was testing this theory and on a 70mph trip I got 21mpg, on a 60mph trip I got 25mpg, at 55mph I was at 26.6mpg. So I theorized that doing 65 on this 700 mile trip would yield 23, and I was exactly right. I got exactly 23mpg. Less RPM=less injections per minute. Less speed=less wind to push out of the way. It's simple, and it works. I know some people out their are claiming 26mpg at 70mph or something crazy like that but if thats the case, why aren't they posting 30+mpg numbers when they do 60! :confused:

Hey guys, new to the forum. I have a '98 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 5.9L 24valve automatic 2 wheel drive 3:55 rear axle ratio. I have done literally everything I could possibly do to my truck to improve the mpg. Yet, I cannot seem to get anything over 15-16 mpg in the city and hwy can vary from 16-22 mpg. Current mods are afe cold air intake, airdog 100gph pump, rv275 injectors, smarty tuner, 4" straight exhaust, IAT fooler, scanguage 2, tires are toyo m-55 245-75-16 filled to 80 psi. The truck would get 15 mpg city/hwy bone stock with a 3" exhaust however when the fuel pressure was tested I was told that it was at 9psi at idle. I'm wondering if its done damage to the already weak vp44 I seem to see other 4x4 trucks getting 18 mpg city as for me doesn't matter what smarty setting I am on or how much timing I give it if I really baby the heck out of it I can maybe manage to pull 16 possibly 17 city hwy mix. I'm planning on changing my diff oil to amsoil 75-90 same weight as I have in there now just hoping the amsoil will help also running 5-30 amsoil in the motor with a bypass. What could be causing the mileage to be so low? Truck shows no signs of starving for fuel I have the airdog set at 18psi now but if damage has already been done not knowing how long its been running 9psi from the PO is there any test I can do without having to pull the whole pump out?

I did some more measuring and testing for the MPG crowd. Before I start I will say that I just verified my SGII and its right close to being on the money (off by 0.2 gallons). I'll assume that a slight error between the ScanGauge and the fuel pump. Now I my truck conditions are Edge set for 5x3, IAT fooled to 143*F, Engine coolant varied from 188*F to 197*F, winter fronts still on. Actual weather was high of 65*F (actual IAT was ~90-105*F) Now since I was on I-84 down in southern Idaho today I figure I open the beast up and let it fly low for once. So I set the cruise for 75 MPH and reset the current MPG counter and measure for about 20 miles of highway. I was pulling roughly ~13 MPG. Then after shopping in Nampa, ID and got back on the same stretch of highway again and set my cruise this time for 65 MPH then reset the ScanGauge II again and measured about 20 miles of highway again. I turned out ~18 MPG. Then even with all the playing driving fast and slower I still pulled in the yard with a total of 22 MPG. So from this rough measurement I found that roughly for every 10 MPH above 55 MPH I lose roughly 5 MPG. This is calculated numbers here. According to Google Maps its 300 miles round trip what I drove. Time to travel distance 300 miles / 55 MPH = 5.4 Hours 300 miles / 65 MPH = 4.6 Hours (0.8 hours less than 55 MPH) 300 miles / 75 MPH = 4.0 Hours (0.6 hours less than 65 MPH, 1.4 Hours less than 55 MPH) Amount of fuel consumed 300 miles / 21 MPG = 14.2 Gallons (@ 55 MPH - not a true 55 MPH because of testing) 300 miles / 18 MPG = 16.6 Gallons (@ 65 MPH) 300 miles / 13 MPG = 23.0 Gallons (@ 75 MPH) Cost difference @ $4.019 Gallon (which I paied for) 14.2 Gallons x $4.019 = $57.06 16.6 Gallons x $4.019 = $66.71 ($9.65 more than 55 MPH) 23.0 Gallons x $4.019 = $92.43 ($25.72 more that 65 MPH, $35.41 more than 55 MPH) Another tidbit. I get the same MPG's towing my RV at 55 MPH than I do driving empty at 75 MPH. Also the fuel consumption rate at 75 MPH is just about the same as climibng a 5% to 6% grade at 55 MPH. This shows that amount of rolling resistance and wind drag differences between 55 and 75 MPH.

My overhead read about 16.7 to 16.9, but actual mileage was only 14.2, on stock size tires. Most driving was short trips and basically no highway miles. I know that's not TERRIBLE numbers but I am hoping to get up there around 17-20 mpg if possible. I was using the overhead to adjust my driving style and it seemed the harder I accelerated (to a degree) the mileage went up, so I would try to drive it harder, I think this tank I will ease up and see what happens. But other than that, I need to fix a small fuel leak behind the motor. I think it's the stock return line but haven't pinpointed it yet. Some ideas of future upgrades are AFE Stage 2 intake, RV275's, maybe a larger intake horn? Besides that, all pumps and fluids are fresh, so what else can I look into for mileage and performance?

ok changed the injectors to rv275s from dap and mileage got a little worse:banghead: was running 5x5 than tried 3x5 now trying 2x5 the comp is tapped maybe time to untap but ill wait and see how this tank reacts went from about 15 to about 13:banghead:

trying to tweek the settings on the comp. with the added rv275s had it on 5x5 mileage went down now trying 3x5 any thoughts on this? ps yes im keeping my foot out of it as im trying to get this mpg thing in line thanks:thumbup2:

I went aliitle bigger on my tire size stock was 245 75 16 went to 265 75 16 just wondering what my actual mileage would be right now im doing a little better than 14 arond townon the new tires also will the scan gauge 2 allow me adjust the tire size?

hey guys n moparman, first post here i just got an email from the site suggesting my return but ive yet to post anyways ill start off with a bang.. 01 24v dodge excab 4x4 stock new vp n raptor, 86mph 2250 rpms i think forget what its governd to also have a 12v anywho pedal to the floorboard 13 psi going to the pump. idle i think 14 -17 im pretty sure. im trying to do this from memory i havent driven the truck in a week or so. so i believe it gets good FP? the gauge is taped into the shrader valve on the fuel intake banjo bolt and i recently changed the fuel filter and saw no change in numbers... regardless the truck gets 11-12 mpg around town. litterly $100 or about 22 gallons of diesel goes 250 or less miles...horrible i have 17* of timing in my 97 12v n it gets better mpg. on the bright side...winters rolling around and my coolant temp gauge is pegged on 140 and that truck doesnt get warm for sh*t...is it as simple as a stuck thermostat? im a 12v guy i no nothing about vp44,obd2... all i no is the map sensor also went in this truck and it was close to $500 no one could get it but the dealer so i dont want to have to buy anymore sensors and such...i would like to sell this truck, but of course i want to get the kinks out. thats why im here pickin you guys brains, see what we come up with. Also i dont know if this forum offers a for sale section or not i havent looked around much but i got a decent deal on this truck i believe so if anyones interested there might be another good deal to happen?! thanks all. ps- i did not proof read.

I have heard people talk about fuel millage being in the 20's and maintaining the ideal 1800 +/- rpm, but iI run down the road at 55 mph @ 1500 rpm - 70 mph @2000 in overdrive, 55mph @2000 rpm with overdrive off.In order to keep @ 1800 rpm i have to run 45 mph with overdrive off or 65 mph in overdrive.I am running 305/75/16/10 tires 32.6 in tall with 3.54 gears, would changing to 4.10 gears help. I had factory size when i purchased the truck which was 265/75/16/10 or 31.8 tall and was about the same.I am getting around 17 mpg now but diesel just hit 3.99 gal and gas went down to 3.21 gal Most of my driving is hwy, very little stop and go.I thinking of upgrading to 4 in exhaust (have stock no muffler now) and rv 275 injectorsANY IDEAS ?????

Gas is near $4 per gallon, but you don't need to buy a new car to get better mileage on your road trip this summer. Popular Mechanics put fuel-sipping advice to the test by outfitting an ordinary ten-year-old car with an extremely accurate fuel economy gauge and trying out all the gas-saving driving tactics we could think of. We bring you the six strategies that work, plus more quick tips for better MPG. By Mike Allen | Popular Mechanics Tactic No. 1: Coast to a Stop Brakes are necessary (duh!), but they're inherently wasteful: They take the kinetic energy of a moving car—energy it took pricey gasoline to generate—and turn it into heat that's lost to the air. Everyone knows that accelerating until the last moment then braking hard to stop is less efficient than slowly coasting to a red light. But PM's test data (illustrated above) prove what a huge difference coasting makes. The lesson: Whenever possible, anticipate that a light will turn red and ease off the gas. Generally, the less you have to brake, the better your fuel economy. Tactic No. 2: Avoid Slowly Crawling Up to Speed Conventional wisdom says that jackrabbit starts consume more fuel. But it turns out that nursing your speed up to the limit too slowly also lowers mpg. How can that be? Cars get poorer fuel economy in lower gears, and accelerating too slowly prevents up-shifting at an efficient rate. The best acceleration rate varies with the vehicle, gear ratios and weight. But in our testing we found that taking 15 seconds to accelerate to 50 mph used less fuel than taking 30 seconds to reach the same speed, because the car entered its top, fuel-​saving gear sooner. Tactic No. 3: Close Windows and Use A/C at High Speeds It's a fierce efficiency debate: Open the windows in summer to avoid running your energy-intensive air conditioner, or keep the windows closed and the a/c on to preserve your car's aerodynamic profile. (We'll leave aside the option of sweating it out.) PM's testing settled the issue. Driving at 55 mph with the a/c running, we got 24 mpg; turning it off bumped us up to 28 mpg. Then we opened all four windows, one at a time, and lost 1 mpg per window until we were back at 24 mpg. So at that speed, it's a wash. But aerodynamic drag rises exponentially with speed_—the faster you go, the more the open windows hurt efficiency. The answer? Below 55 mph, open the windows and leave the a/c off. But at 60 mph or higher, keeping them closed and the air conditioning running will burn less fuel. Tactic No. 4: Cruise at a Slower Speed Since the power required to overcome aerodynamic drag is a function of the velocity cubed (in other words, it shoots up quickly), a car's jump from 40 to 60 mph requires less fuel than the increase from 60 to 80 mph. (The hit to fuel efficiency is roughly twice as severe in the higher range.) So go slower, right? Well, yeah, but fuel efficiency isn't the only thing that matters. Some studies suggest that the old 55-mph limit saved fuel but cost us more in terms of lost work hours. Then there's safety: Going 55 mph when traffic is cruising at 70 can be dangerous to everyone. Just don't go 80. That will drain your tank quickly—and the costs add up if you also have to pay for a speeding ticket. Tactic No. 5: Climb Slowly (When It's Safe) Imagine driving on a flat highway and approaching an overpass. From a fuel-efficiency standpoint, the best strategy is to turn off cruise control and forget about maintaining a constant speed up and down both sides of the grade. The theory predicts that, and our data prove it. The physics work like this: Lifting off the accelerator while traveling up the hill and allowing your speed to decay trades some kinetic energy (related to speed) for potential energy (related to the car's tendency to roll downhill). You regain the kinetic energy—and get better gas mileage—on the backside. While hyper-milers—who are obsessed with getting the best possible gas mileage—claim significant economy benefits from this technique, our results showed only modest gains. Two things did happen, though: (1) We drew the wrath of a lot of drivers following us, as evidenced by their single-​finger salutes; (2) We were nearly sideswiped by an impatient 18-wheeler. Yes, the method does work. But we'll save it for lightly traveled roads. Tactic No. 6: When Coasting Downhill, Leave the Car in Gear There are those who refuse to be shaken from the practice of coasting downhill in neutral to save gas. This is a bad idea no matter how you look at it. Let's set aside fuel economy for a moment. Coasting downhill in neutral is illegal in most states. And it's dangerous in all states. In neutral, you have no way to accelerate to avoid a hazard, and if the engine stalls, you have no power steering or vacuum boost for the brakes. If the hill is steep enough to call for hitting the brakes to keep you from gaining speed, they're more likely to overheat—and overheated brakes lose effectiveness until they cool off. They'll probably do that right around the time the police show up to take the accident report. Here's the surprise: There's no trade-off between safety and fuel economy in this case. Leaving the car in gear while coasting downhill actually is more efficient. Why? Most fuel-injected engines today use computer-controlled Deceleration Fuel Cut Off: When you lift your foot from the gas while leaving the car in gear, injectors shut off automatically, and the car's rotating tires—which are connected to the engine via the transmission—keep the engine turning and the accessories running. So, the engine consumes no fuel at all while the vehicle is coasting downhill. In contrast, the fuel-consumption rate for an engine idling in neutral falls between 0.2 and 0.4 gallons per hour (gph). Splitting the difference and using 0.3 gph for our example, idling in neutral down a ½-mile-long hill consumes fuel for 30 seconds, for a total of about 0.32 ounces of gas. Popping the car into neutral actually wastes gas. This may seem counter-intuitive, but that's what data are for—replacing good guesses with solid facts. Watch the data, and over time the savings will take care of itself. Fuel-Sipping Basics Monitor Tire Pressure Keep your tires properly inflated, because low pressure increases rolling resistance. Few drivers check and adjust their tire pressure often, but it's a good idea to do it once a week. Plan Errands Carefully Reduce the miles you drive by running all your errands in one trip. Making a run to the dry cleaner and then picking up the kids after soccer practice? Don't make separate outings. A little bit of foresight will stretch your fuel economy. Warm Up the Engine Cars get better fuel economy when the engine is warm. So if you have a three-stop run, hit the farthest destination first, then work your way back home. A fully warmed-up engine will remain at an efficient temperature even if it's parked for 30 minutes. Make Right Turns Only FedEx does it, and the MythBusters proved it works: When city driving, make as many right turns as possible, even if it means going a few hundred yards out of the way. Reducing loiter time—or idling while waiting for traffic to clear—saves gas. Avoid Ethanol When Possible Gasoline that has been cut with 10 or 15 percent ethanol, called E10 or E15, is an mpg killer. Why? Gasoline stores more energy than ethanol (119,000 Btu per gallon vs 80,000). So it takes more ethanol than gasoline to go the same distance. Read complete article

Been checking my fuel mileage since I installed my 2nd hand motor and running 60-65 been getting 15.2 pretty regiously. (I need to up date my weight on my sig. but anyway I weigh around 11k.) Getting 14 pulling trailer 7k. My best was 16.3 driving 55-58. Now that is stock everything except 5" exhaust and BHAF.Today I put my DDP50hp injectors in and we'll see what it does. I now this eng. is a lot quieter. Next I will put EZ back on. I can say this stock s----

Sister graduated yesterday and somehow word is out that I know how to play with diesels and a guy hit me up with his 24V saying he wants to give it a tune up. This means set his valves (apparently has never been done, ever, after 160k miles) and check over some other things. I imagine being a 24V I should clean his map sensor and what else is there to check on those things? Now the thing is he went from 18 when new and has dwindled down to 12, I would think if his valves and sensors were off/dirty it would constitute the drop but what other things is there that would cause this? I don't think he has any codes or anything, just never had any maintenance done in it's life out of neglect.

Hello everyone, im new in this diesel world, as well on this forum, im having trouble with my 01 3500 dodge 24 valves cummins 4x4 dually, im getting only 14 mpg on highway, the only error codes that im getting is the 122 (apps low voltage), could the apps be the reason of mi really low mpg's?, cause im getting a timbo's apps next week.Thank you guysGreetings from Mexico

I going to install some rv 275 injectors in the near future. Also a j- hook, but what kind of boost fooler ( diablo power puck ) not wanting to spend $1000.00 on edge. I may trade the truck in 2-3 years for newer.

so i was doing some thinking today on my way home since i started driving 65 rather than 70if i can gain 2mpg by doing 65 rather than 70 mph i will save (fuel at $4/gal) 3 cents a milei will use my situation.. Drive: 70 miles/day 20 days/month 1400 miles/month x .03 cents = $42now saving $42 a month doesn't seem like much but lets look at how much more time it takes for me to drive 70 miles a day at 65mph vs 70mph60min/70 = .857143 minutes/mile x 70 miles = 60 minutes of driving per day60min/65 = .923077 minutes/mile x 70 miles = 64.6 minutes a dayso if i save myself 5 minutes round trip thats 2.5 minutes per one way so really unnoticeable as far as fuel savings by driving slower and time savings by driving faster (5 minutes versus $2)heres where it gets interesting... if i look at that as dollars an hour i can take (2x12)/(5x12) = $24/60min:smart:so by driving 65 miles an hour rather than 70 if i look at it as time spent for the money saved im making 24 dollars an hour just for driving 5 mph slower...what a deal!also..im in the process of checking my exact mileage gains but say i get 4mpg more then everything doubles+2mpg = $24/hr+3mpg = $36/hr+4mpg = $48/hrnow as fuel prices go up... so does your money making!!:cookoo:i always like to look at the positive side of things:thumb1:

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-kmI1hzbI0&feature=player_embedded http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=pa2zhJh2s3E http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJNIuZOTReg http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcsoWO4fctg http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdBtU6lb5AE http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=D4DrVAHVNXA --- Update to the previous post... More to come tomorrow!Lindsey is releasing More info today! --- Update to the previous post... Forgot the source. http://www.infowars.com/oil-prices-skyrocket-after-williams-latest-revelations/

I am a newbie here but I have been reading for several days and most everyone can only get maybe 18-20 mpg out of a 24v. Trying to figure out how my truck gets such good mileage. Can get 24+ with a steel Knaphiede bedcover that wieghs 1200#. I AM NOT COMPLAINING!!!!!! Just trying to figure this out... No electronics on truck. tires 245/75-16LT 3.55 auto