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need new battery cables


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I think I cleaned my cables for the last time, Its time to replace them all. So ive been looking into a set from custom cables, but for 300 bucks I think I could build my own for about 1/2 the cost. I was thinking about going with 2/0 size for both sides and using a good quality military style clamps, As far as the cable I don't know if I should spend the extra money and use marine grade cable or if welding cable/ automotive cable in the same size would be just as good. And is crimping the best way to fasten all this together rather than soldier,

 

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I think I cleaned my cables for the last time, Its time to replace them all. So ive been looking into a set from custom cables, but for 300 bucks I think I could build my own for about 1/2 the cost. I was thinking about going with 2/0 size for both sides and using a good quality military style clamps, As far as the cable I don't know if I should spend the extra money and use marine grade cable or if welding cable/ automotive cable in the same size would be just as good. And is crimping the best way to fasten all this together rather than soldier,

Thats what I did. I went to Car Quest and they did a good job for much less than half the money. I went with Red for Hot and Black for Ground.

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I was able to cut the ends off and put good crimp connectors on with double wall with adhesive on. I happen to have a quality crimper that made easy work of it. did my truck and my boys that was about 4 years ago still good used I think it was Hummer battery post connectors that has bolt at both ends making it easy to connect all the connectors. Was able to salvage all the cables. On my offroad buggies I have use welding cable with good success but they do not require a large amp load.

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Personally I like to solder all my connections that way its water and acid tight. Acid can't make its way down into the cord of the cable and rot it out from the inside. Make sure to seal all joints with liquid electrical tape and/or shrink tubing. Makes thing last that much longer.

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I replaced the hot cable going over to the Passenger side and new terminal clamp on hot on driverside.. I USED HD terminal clamps from Fastenal that solder on and also used adhesive heat shrink ....3-yrs ago and still look new and no corrosion  

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I replaced the hot cable going over to the Passenger side and new terminal clamp on hot on driverside.. I USED HD terminal clamps from Fastenal that solder on and also used adhesive heat shrink ....3-yrs ago and still look new and no corrosion  

cool, so solder over crimping, I can handle that. I didn't know fastenal sold that stuff, They have a store in a town about 50 miles from me, I will have to give them a call and see if they got what I need. other than that I got a carquest and napa close by.

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the only reason I was thinking of going with the military style clamps is because they seem more serviceable. rather than if you solder the cable end into the clamp it a done deal, I don't know if you get a second chance on redoing if needed.(don't know never tried it)   it may last or may not.  depending on the solder job.

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I'm even happier with the idea of taking care of the cables and protecting them from damage in the first place. If you to look at my battery terminal they look nearly factory fresh yet except for the jumper cable gouges. The entire secret is using engine oil and not grease. This way if you work on the engine you don't lean over and get a big gob of grease stuck to your shirt or arm. Engine oil leaves a film that acid can't penetrate.

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I'm even happier with the idea of taking care of the cables and protecting them from damage in the first place. If you to look at my battery terminal they look nearly factory fresh yet except for the jumper cable gouges. The entire secret is using engine oil and not grease. This way if you work on the engine you don't lean over and get a big gob of grease stuck to your shirt or arm. Engine oil leaves a film that acid can't penetrate.

I finally listened to Mike on the use of engine oil and he is right, all my battery stuff is staying new looking. Except I missed getting some on the battery hold down bolts. They are getting a little thin in the shank and will get new before they break.

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the only reason I was thinking of going with the military style clamps is because they seem more serviceable. rather than if you solder the cable end into the clamp it a done deal, I don't know if you get a second chance on redoing if needed.(don't know never tried it)   it may last or may not.  depending on the solder job.

OK, your OEM Cables were solder built from factory, and heat shrink used,,if your just now replacing them, how are you gonna top that, IT doesn't get any better than soldered connection with heat shrink IMHO

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I finally listened to Mike on the use of engine oil and he is right, all my battery stuff is staying new looking. Except I missed getting some on the battery hold down bolts. They are getting a little thin in the shank and will get new before they break.

 

Still got all my OEM battery holder bolts and clips yet and no sign of wear.

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Personally I like to solder all my connections that way its water and acid tight. Acid can't make its way down into the cord of the cable and rot it out from the inside. Make sure to seal all joints with liquid electrical tape and/or shrink tubing. Makes thing last that much longer.

Do you solder them yourself?  what do you use to heat everything?

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