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The Isspro gauges are very good gauges.  I live about 100 miles north of Phoenix and have found that the exhaust temp gauge is very handy in these mountain climbs.  I have a manual trans so don't have the trans temp gauge. I put a fuel pressure gauge in place of that.  I think that is the most important gauge in my truck.  Mine are mounted in the A-Piller mount and work nicely in that position.  Takes a bit of itme to get it all installed though.

You will be happy with them when finished.

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I have ran the ev fuel pressure gauge for some now and it works fine. If you dont have one it is another very important one to have. About 2.5 years ago I added that same package to mine that you linked and they are still working fine. I put mine in a dash pod and am very happy with that. I had my old Banks ones in the a pillar, just thought I would try something different. You will like them. 

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I bought my last 3 gauge package from Vulcan like you. The sent me one wrong gauge. All it took was a phone call and the sent me the right one with a label to return the wrong. They are 'stand up folks.

 

Edited by dripley
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  • 2 weeks later...

So I spent the weekend installing my gauges, went out for a test drive and trans temp and boost seem to be normal, but the pyro on heavy acceleration goes to 0,and when I back off accelerator and boost goes down it jumps back to where it should be at around 400 0r 500. Now this is without a load behind truck, but it just seems strange that the gauge will go all the way to O that quick as the boost goes up while accelerating hard,

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Yup, got to be a connection touching something it shouldn't. Same thing happened on mine after install, every once in a while the pyro gauge would be dead. Finally found that one wire where I had spliced into wasn't completely covered. I moved it away and covered it up and it hasn't been back since. 

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this only happens when building boost, I double checked all connections, the ground coming from the amplifier box is grounded the same place my lights are. Hot wire coming from amplifier box is connected to cig. lighter along with the trans gauge amplifier box hot wire, I also checked lead wires coming from  probe and no change, The only thing I haven't done is check the four pin plug at the gauge
see if this video explains it better, its a little jumpy but best I can do driving and video at same time.IMG_1134.MOV

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Have you tried just pushing and moving the gauge wires around while stopped to see if you can replicate the problem? I understand that it seems like it's only happening while building boost, but that may just be a coincidence to what's actually happening. I'd leave power applied and push and move wires and the gauge around to see if it happens again. It's just hard to think that the pyro would stop reading while building boost, there's no real correlation between the two ya know?

 

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well you guys were right it was a wiring problem, I don't know what exactly was the culprit, but instead of using the hot wire from cig. lighter ( it already had previous splices in it) I just removed them and ran them out to the distribution box. and what do ya know pyro works like it should.

I don't know if I like this trans temp.sensor set up, It just clamps on to the hot outlet line on the tranny, I may have to experiment with that one, but I guess its better than having no trans temp at all for now.

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10 minutes ago, CSM said:

Huh.  WnF likes a return line tap.  I have a pan tap, as I am lazy.  I have never heard of a clamp on sensor.  

Here is a link to a clamp on type. http://www.genosgarage.com/product/acutemp-adapter/gauge-related

 

I do the converter outlet line tap right at the trans, hottest oil in the system and most accurate place to check it on the 2nd gens. Or read it off the Smarty touch Via the OBDII port now lol..............

The oil in the pan is the coldest oil in the system, it has returned to sump through the entire cooling system.

Edited by Wild and Free
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