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I guess I'll be changing a IP next week so I have been reading over manuals to see what I'll need.  I don't have a gear puller, I found this one on Geno's http://www.genosgarage.com/product/cgp010/tools.  Is there any reason it wouldn't work?  Something better?

Also, I figured that I'd put in a fuel pressure test adapter since I don't currently have that option.  Maybe it will come in handy.  Thoughts?

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Post back on how things are going, I'd like to gather as much knowledge as possible before I inevitably have to do this myself one day!

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I'm going to do the Hot Wire Test on Saturday, and if that reveals that my IP is bad I'll order one from DAP.  I talked to them today, they have an option that you can still tap the pump and keep the 1 year warranty.  The cost is $1500...I'm not sure if the higher cost is just for the ability to Tap/Warranty.  They have others that are around $1K.  Not sure about all of the differences. 

I'll post back, but it may be just cursing and hoar stories. 

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Well given that you have the comp it might be worth it to get the one with a warranty that lets you still tap. Then again, it's a whole lot easier spending someone else money! :lmao:

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17 minutes ago, Hawkez said:

I'm going to do the Hot Wire Test on Saturday, and if that reveals that my IP is bad I'll order one from DAP.  I talked to them today, they have an option that you can still tap the pump and keep the 1 year warranty.  The cost is $1500...I'm not sure if the higher cost is just for the ability to Tap/Warranty.  They have others that are around $1K.  Not sure about all of the differences. 

I'll post back, but it may be just cursing and hoar stories. 

Just had my Vp changed. THe edge juice was wire tapped on the old pump. I decided to wait a bit before tapping the pump. You'd be surprised how much power 5x5 nets without the pump wire tapped. Im going to eventually get a stealth cover after seeing the corrosion on the previous owners tap/hack job.

 

I thought DAP and Vulcan had 2 yr warranties on the cheaper ~$1050 pumps but can't wire tap.

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I dare say there is no difference in the 2 pumps. The extra $500 just covers the cost if a tapped one craps out. Run some crappy fuel thru your pump and see how fast that will void your warranty. Not sure i would spring for the extra warranty if it was mine. But like Jag said, It aint my money!!!

The last time I pulled my pump I used a steering wheel puller on the pump gear. It will work but the space is very tight and I think I had to buy some different bolts to use with it, cant remember.

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In regards to the stealth cover, thoroughbred diesel says that using that WON'T void you vp44 warranty. That might be worth bringing up the guys over at DAP, maybe they'd honor that as well, or maybe it's just a thoroughbred diesel thing. Anyways, food for thought!

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DAP will void for stealth cover, well their rebuilder will void the warranty so DAP can't warranty the pump.  The pin prick on the board is traceable now and most every rebuilder looks for it.

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22 minutes ago, moparguy55 said:

I thought DAP and Vulcan had 2 yr warranties on the cheaper ~$1050 pumps but can't wire tap.

They do have two year warranties on their "do not tap" VP44s.  The 1 year warranty was specifically for the unit that allowed for the wire tap.

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Industrial injection will void the warranty.

I've never used a puller to remove a VP or a CP3. Just put a prybar in the right spot and give it a pop. Doesn't hurt the pump and comes out just fine.

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If you were taking the pump out, I'm assuming it's probably because it's not good anyways so who cares if you hurt it or not right?!

As far as the warranty goes, it sucks you got to shell out that much more just to be covered. Tyler did you just tap your new one and say f the warranty? Or did you wait a year and then tap?

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Leave it untapped for a month at least.  

 

Drive it hard for the first pump.  If any rebuild related issues are going to happen I would expect to see them within that time.  

 

Then after that point I tapped my pump.

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35 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

Industrial injection will void the warranty.

I've never used a puller to remove a VP or a CP3. Just put a prybar in the right spot and give it a pop. Doesn't hurt the pump and comes out just fine.

Should see the pump laying my shelf. It was pull that exact fashion and needless to say is worthless for a core.

10 minutes ago, Hawkez said:

What will be different with driving it un tapped?

Be limited to 60-65 HP period. There is no programmer or module that can provide more than 60-65 HP without a wire tap.

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1 hour ago, notlimah said:

If you were taking the pump out, I'm assuming it's probably because it's not good anyways so who cares if you hurt it or not right?!

As far as the warranty goes, it sucks you got to shell out that much more just to be covered. Tyler did you just tap your new one and say f the warranty? Or did you wait a year and then tap?

I had to remove my pump to replace the tappet cover gasket.

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That sounds like a pain! Even though mine is at 60k, it's long past the warranty. I'd more then likely just do the typical wire tap. 

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The way I see it, you have to answer several questions. 

  1. Do I need the extra power the tap gives me or can I drive/tow all right with the lower power setting?
  2. Do I want to spend the money ($1500) for more power but only have a 1 year warranty?
  3. Would a $1050 pump with a 2 year warranty, that can still be tapped later, fit my needs?

 

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I drove mine for almost 3 years with nothing but the rv 275's. I was fairly content with it. I still missed the power while towing but she did pretty good with out. Now with the comp it seems like along time ago.

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3 hours ago, notlimah said:

If you were taking the pump out, I'm assuming it's probably because it's not good anyways so who cares if you hurt it or not right?!

As far as the warranty goes, it sucks you got to shell out that much more just to be covered. Tyler did you just tap your new one and say f the warranty? Or did you wait a year and then tap?

Not really. I did a bunch of testing, rebuilt the motor, changed the tappet cover gasket etc.

I waited a bit to tap the wire. I'd say at least a couple months to make sure everything is going to function properly.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Should see the pump laying my shelf. It was pull that exact fashion and needless to say is worthless for a core.

I did say the right spot.... I'm not saying everyone should do it.  I've had my pump off at least 5 times and never messed it up.

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15 hours ago, Hawkez said:

What will be different with driving it un tapped?

It will still pull more than a commonrail. Night and day difference from stock setting to level 5x5 even without the pump wire tapped. Im geared 3.54 and my 04.5 6 speed was 3.73. The 24v has more get up and go in the 1000-2000 rpm range. Over 2000 rpm not as much difference vs the stock commonrail. but still pulls a bit more.

I'm debating if i'm even going to put the wire tap on. The clutch probably be happier with the wire not tapped. And empty more than enough power.

Edited by moparguy55

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3 hours ago, moparguy55 said:

It will still pull more than a commonrail. Night and day difference from stock setting to level 5x5 even without the pump wire tapped. Im geared 3.54 and my 04.5 6 speed was 3.73. The 24v has more get up and go in the 1000-2000 rpm range. Over 2000 rpm not as much difference vs the stock commonrail. but still pulls a bit more.

Not the same case as my brother's CR...... Trucks were dead even until 75 or so. Then he pulled away.

Edited by TFaoro
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1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

Not the same case as my brother's CR...... Trucks were dead even until 75 or so. Then he pulled away.

To be fair my 04.5 was a 3500 4x4 srw 4 door. Prob a fair bit heavier than my 02 QCSB truck.

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