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Pyrometers install

Royal Squire
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01cummins4ever

01cummins4ever

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, notlimah said:

I'm in the same boat as you as far as using Chinese made tap. I got the one from Eric when I bought my gauge kit from him and have had no issues with quality or use.

I probably used the same one you did, just ordered it with the kit just incase I didn't have the right size. I put some torque on that tap and it held up even though I stepped up the drill bit a size or two just becouse I didn't want to take chances on a broke tap

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dripley

dripley

Posted
Posted

how about a building supply, Home depot, Lowe, Menards whatever Any place like that should have them too. It is all common stuff. I never shopped for this stuff in New York, closest I ever got was New Jersey but they had that kind of stuff there.

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leathermaneod

leathermaneod

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My local lowes and Home Depot are pretty much useless when it comes to anything even slightly out of the norm. I checked them and Sears first thing and they don't have any. I found an Irwin tap at and Ace hardware, not sure if it's US made or not I still have to check. But they didn't have the bit for it. So I gota run to fatenal today and pick one up there. Fortunately they have a 1/8 npt pipe plug too. 

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leathermaneod

leathermaneod

Posted
Posted

Hey all! Good news! Old probe and fittings came out just fine. My only question now is, how deep should I tap the new threads? The old hole is only tapped literally like 3 threads deep! Which makes it about half way through. Is that right? My pipe plug doesn't go in far at all!! 

Also, will placing the probe about 2-1/8" instead of 2" from the turbo flange hurt anything? I'd like to place it in line with the old hole...

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Buzzinhalfdozen

Buzzinhalfdozen

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As long as you're  centered on the exhaust runner the distance to the turbo flange doesn't really matter.

 

11/32",Q, and R. Those seem to be the acceptable drill size depending on what engineer made the drill/tap chart. Lettered bits are less common to find and the difference in size is very small. 

 

The depth you tap it to kind of depends on the drill bit size. Just cut a few threads, try the fitting and repeat. You don't want the fitting to bottom out but it should be threaded most of the way in. 

 

 

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KATOOM

KATOOM

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The desired depth for taping is to have the threads cut just deep enough so that the fitting is held in place securely.  This means there is no reason to tap all the way into the manifold so that when the fitting is installed tightly that its forced to hang down into the flow of exhaust.  That will only cause more unnecessary impeding turbulence.

 

Then the thermocouple must be positioned so that its sitting directly in the middle of the exhaust port and as far from the outside edges of the manifold as possible.  Yes, it too will interfere with exhaust flow but not much and its something you cant get around since its kinda necessary for the pyrometers function..... :thumbup2:

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leathermaneod

leathermaneod

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Well it could be worse but it could be better. Im definitely going to have some extra turbulence due to this install. 

image_zpsc4kzouog.jpeg

My inexperience with tapping led me to go deeper than i should have :-( I tapped and test fit and tapped and test fit and it wasn't going in that far. Well when I tightened it with a wrench it went A LOT further....havent started it yet but hopefully it seals up ok. I didnt make them too tight because I didnt want to go any deeper. 

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KATOOM

KATOOM

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It doesn't look bad.  And the amount sticking in the exhaust path is determined by how deep the fitting is.  And since I cant compare what the fitting length measured in relation to the thickness of the manifold, I cant say how much is sticking though.  But it doesnt look like much.

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leathermaneod

leathermaneod

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Yeah if I had to guess I'd say its probably about an 1/8" or so. And the plug may be a 1/16" if any. Just really upset me because I thought I was being so careful not to go to far. Then I couldn't make them as tight as otherwise would have because of not wanting them in too deep. I started it up then and let it run all the way up to temp in 3 cyl mode. It was hard to tell if it was leaking  because of all the PB blaster and neverseize burning off but I don't think it was. Just had me worried since like I said I couldn't make them as light as I would have. Hopefully they will only seal better with time and heat cycles though and not come loose. I was also mad because the hole didn't wind up quite where I wanted it. I was trying to get them both in line so it would at least be neat but it just didn't happen. Oh well some day I'll get a new manifold. Oh and now 3 cyl is the temp it should be, 425-475.

Edited by leathermaneod
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leathermaneod

leathermaneod

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Lol I have looked into it some. Sounds like the ATS is the way to go and it already has ports for probes. But honestly, I've put some much time, effort, and money into this truck trying to do things to take care of it properly, right now I really just want it to be drivable and reliable. So as long as the probe and plug don't leak or fall out, I'll do my best to be content. For now...lol

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  • 2 weeks later...
leathermaneod

leathermaneod

Posted
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Just wanted to update this incase anyone is interested. I did send my pyrometer in to Autometer at their suggestion to be looked at. I sent it last Wednesday evening and received it back yesterday(Tuesday). So a pretty good turn around. I didn't hear anything from them while it was there, so when I saw the email from ups saying it was coming back, I emailed Dustin West at Autometer to ask about it. He replied the next day asking me to call him. I just did and he told me the gauge checks out 100%. He said he also had them send a new probe and harness back with the gauge though just incase, and told me to contact him if I had any more issues. So it seems that Autometer really has some great customer service! I got my pyrometer checked out and a new probe all for the cost of shipping the gauge to them! And I didn't even buy the gauge from them, It came on my truck!

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