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Help with short Questions...


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  • Owner
15 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Basically the truck is a beautifully detailed piece of junk.

 

Wouldn't get up over 50 mph

Tie rods rusted with no grease

BJ's worn

Track bar sloppy as slush

Steering box shot Pitman arm shot

Bad brakes

Emergency brake didn't work

Trans needed complete overhaul

Valve covers leaking

Transfere case and transmission leaking

Oil filter looked like it was on there for years

Heater not pushing much air

 

Guy wanted 8,000 w/o the bed because I have my own flatbed

So when all fixed would be over 16 grand I figured.

 

Congratulations for the excellent inspection. You covered all the bases and then some. :thumbup2:

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/17/2017 at 11:31 AM, JAG1 said:

Just called the guy and he told me the truck does not go into overdrive on the transmission. Should I stay away?

Had one not going into lock up. Found the brake switch was bad. Preventing it from going into lock up. The ecu saw that the brake was on.  Easy fix. 

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  • Staff

Thanks. A good tip.

 

In the last 13 mos. I've dumped 7100 bucks into my first gen with a recent injector change, rebuilt VE pump and new door hinges. It's a pretty tight truck now and better than a lot of them for sale out there. Ready for another 400000 miles. I hope.

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  • Owner
On 2/2/2017 at 10:38 PM, JAG1 said:

new door hinges

 

Keep those door hinges lubed up with engine oil. They will last a very long time. 

 

On 2/2/2017 at 10:38 PM, JAG1 said:

recent injector change

 

Injectors are considered a wear item every 100-200k miles you should be considering replacing them. 

 

On 2/2/2017 at 10:38 PM, JAG1 said:

rebuilt VE pump

 

VE pump if you keep lube in the fuel it will go a long ways before needing replacement again. 

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  • Staff

I've been looking to get a newer truck like a second gen to look a bit better in business as I currently have a first gen for my work. It issomewhat beat up but all that I look at are ready for the work that's been done to my truck.

Today I raced a lightly modified 2nd gen 24 valve off the line. With my limited slip I jumped ahead half a truck length and held it there all the way up to the speed limit. Why should I trade when my truck was full of tools?

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A thought... depending on the use.  The 4th gen gas trucks are really reliable.   Some older work trucks are deals.  The hemi engine is very reliable. 

 

All told, if i ordered a new dodge tomorrow it would have the 6.4 hemi.

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I worried about that after buying mine but the only time I almost put gas in it was at a station that the gas pump handle on the nozzle was green. Got a few of those around here where I am working. I dont know how bad diesel will foul up a gas engine these days. 

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8 hours ago, dripley said:

I worried about that after buying mine but the only time I almost put gas in it was at a station that the gas pump handle on the nozzle was green. Got a few of those around here where I am working. I dont know how bad diesel will foul up a gas engine these days. 

Not a big deal. I've delt with diesel in gas motors alot at my dealership. Drain it out. Take it for a beat run. Good too go. They will try to tell u it needs everything tho.  Haha 

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  • Staff

with my 1st gen high miler getting recent injectors and inj pump... learning on this forum about my 2nd gen too, I don't think I could ever go to a gas engine. I have been looking at other 2nd gen 12 valves but none are worthy or as tight like my 1st gen, so on I go restoring my old truck.

 

I have learned enough to tell most times when a mechanic or dealer is a not on the right path with things you hear from sales people.

 

 I don't think I could work around all the strange parts covering  a newer gas engine as I can my 12 or my 24.

 

 CSM, I know you mean well and your probably right... that they are cheap and yet reliable enough to warrant going back. Sometimes these diesels are expensive and make you think about a cheap gas truck but, then I remember the unbelievable number of sweet miles I got out of my 92 Dodge already.

 

Edited by JAG1
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  • Staff

Another Question... just got a quote to do all the body work and new paint on this old truck. $1700 bucks is what they say for one all one color. I remove and replace molding and mirrors.

 

I think that's a good price, what say you?

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1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

Another Question... just got a quote to do all the body work and new paint on this old truck. $1700 bucks is what they say for one all one color. I remove and replace molding and mirrors.

 

I think that's a good price, what say you?

VERY good price. The "price" on mine was 5K. Not what I paid, but that's what someone else would have. 

Have you seen their work? Does it stand the test of time? Something just seems off being that low. 

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  • Staff

 Thanks, it is for the cab only since it has an aluminum flatbed with a head ache rack. I told then not to paint the rear of the cab just mask off a line and paint all else. I am to remove and replace mirrors and body side moldings.

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