100hp 7x.009 injectors EXHAUST POP?

[Mopar1973Man]

Whoa... Geez... The shop I deal with in Lewiston Idaho will pop test injectors for FREE! Now if you want them tuned they cost $15 an injector or $90 for all 6 to be retuned.

Edited April 14, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[TFaoro]

Mine would do that with bigger injectors too. Not enough heat in everything for it to burn it properly. Typically below 400 on the egts and mine would pop. 

[Dieselfuture]

39 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Whoa... Geez... The shop I deal with in Lewiston Idaho will pop test injectors for FREE! Now if you want them tuned they cost $15 an injector or $90 for all 6 to be retuned.

I wish we had places like that around here, they want 15-20 just to pop test them. I can probably build something for that much to pop test.

[dripley]

I just bought a set  50's from DAP and asked them what they we charge to rebuild my RV's. $110 to redo them unless they had to replace any of the nozzles. $300 for an hours worth of work is excessive.

[Waydin_Stewart]

On 4/13/2017 at 9:29 PM, TFaoro said:

Mine would do that with bigger injectors too. Not enough heat in everything for it to burn it properly. Typically below 400 on the egts and mine would pop. 

Okay so you said your truck does it too with lower EGTs. The truck does it more often after it has set for a little while. If I let it idle for a minute or so I can start to hear this completely random "chug" I guess is how I would say it. Its like the exhaust pop problem I'm having but it does it while idling. There is no pattern to it at all. I have also noticed that the entire motor will change tone while driving down the road. IT didn't start doing any of this until after I had this computer replaced. I'm going to purchase a smarty after I sell these subwoofers. A guy is coming to pick them up sometime next week. I will reflash the ecm with it and see if the exhaust pop stops and the motor quits changing tone randomly and also stops chugging at idle randomly. The problems started to arise after this dang computer got rebuilt. The way the truck cylces before started, the way the truck sounds entirely, the way it jerks randomly, the exhaust pop. All these symptoms were there before the bigger injectors but after the new computer. The injectors made them much more noticeable. TFaoro does your truck seems to pop/chug/whatever you want to call it under acceleration after bigger injectors. I am disgusted every time i shift cause it starts to make the sound and it is one of the worst sounds I have heard. Its so noticeable! I don't like it at all haha.

[TFaoro]

Mine always had a random chug at idle. Not sure why, but it would go away while driving. Free revving it had the same chug too. 

It did not do it while driving ever.

I now have a Ppump, so... all of the ecm, vp, sensor "issues" are gone forever for me

[Mopar1973Man]

9 hours ago, TFaoro said:

I now have a Ppump, so... all of the ecm, vp, sensor "issues" are gone forever for me

 

Uh no... You still have the PCM and it issues, central timer and its issues, ABS computer and its issues, etc.. So all you done is removed the VP44. 

[notlimah]

Almost sounds like when cycling through on the high idle switch you'll get a quick engine rev or slight lug then back to normal. Maybe your IAT or coolant sensor is on the fritz causing your timing to be all over the place? A live data tool like the obdii would answer that question.

Edited April 26, 2017 by notlimah

[Mopar1973Man]

43 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Almost sounds like when cycling through on the high idle switch you'll get a quick engine rev or slight lug then back to normal. Maybe your IAT or coolant sensor is on the fritz causing your timing to be all over the place? A live data tool like the obdii would answer that question.

 

 

Check both the IAT and ECT temperature at first key on in the morning to see if they match. If so the two sensors are still good. Then watch the sensors as you drive. ECT should be normally 190-200*F and IAT will be roughly +40*F over outside air temperature at full engine temperature of 190-200*F.

[Waydin_Stewart]

I have a scan tool that reads live data. The truck has been sitting for about 3 hours.Is that long enough to go hook it up and see if the sensors are reading correctly? The camshaft position sensor was starting to go bad before I put the new vp44 on it so I wouldn't be surprised if more sensors start to go out.

[TFaoro]

7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Uh no... You still have the PCM and it issues, central timer and its issues, ABS computer and its issues, etc.. So all you done is removed the VP44. 

And as it all dies I'll replace it with toggle switches  #racetruck

 

22 minutes ago, Waydin_Stewart said:

I have a scan tool that reads live data. The truck has been sitting for about 3 hours.Is that long enough to go hook it up and see if the sensors are reading correctly? The camshaft position sensor was starting to go bad before I put the new vp44 on it so I wouldn't be surprised if more sensors start to go out.

Yes that should be long enough for the IAT to get as hot as the ECT

[Mopar1973Man]

Morning check would be more optimal. 

[Evan]

Is your exhaust manifold tight.

 

I installed ducky sac 100s and love them. My truck idles very smooth gets 20mpg or better and has more power then I need.

 

It will push egts up there in a head wind pulling a hill empty. 

 

I'd look at rem and injector install.

 

Then park till you do a fuel and why gauge

[Waydin_Stewart]

On 5/3/2017 at 7:34 AM, Evan said:

Is your exhaust manifold tight.

 

I installed ducky sac 100s and love them. My truck idles very smooth gets 20mpg or better and has more power then I need.

 

It will push egts up there in a head wind pulling a hill empty. 

 

I'd look at rem and injector install.

 

Then park till you do a fuel and why gauge

I have been very busy lately and have not been able to check the IAT and ECT as stated above. I will hopefully check those today or tomorrow. I will check the manifold bolts to see if that would be the problem. But wouldnt that cause the popping sound to come from the engine and not the exhaust tip?

[Mopar1973Man]

Did you check valve lash by chance.

[Waydin_Stewart]

20 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Did you check valve lash by chance.

Yeah I adjusted them to .10 and .20 and followed the write up thoroughly before during and after adjustment. 

[Waydin_Stewart]

Okay I checked the IAT and ECT at first startup and they were 75* and 74.8* respectively. They went up steadily as I drove into town and at full operating temperature they read normal and as mopar stated the IAT was about +40* above outside. These read normal so what would be my next step in troubleshooting? If I purchased a 5" turbo back exhaust and that smarty do you think it would relieve some back pressure and keep the computer form changing tones while driving? I want the exhaust for lower EGTs and they sound pretty darn good IMO but I just want the truck to stop sounding like an IDI 7.3 powerstroke.