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Head gasket leaking oil


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1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

No kidding,  I was so close on buying k27 but they said it was 60 and it's 58 compressor wheel, that turned me down. This place sound like they know what they're doing and he was very helpful in answering my questions and said that 62/67/12 would work very good compare to k27. They had a few they rebuilt in past, from some Mercedes and said they are ok but won't flow like what I'm getting,  and I get to keep my exhaust brake and my old turbo too.

I read a lot of these turbo discussions and to be honest I am turbo ignorant. I do understand what they do and how they do it. I just get lost in what is the best for a given situation. When I make up my mind on whether to ditch the Comp for the quad I will ask.The turbo in my truck is the HX35W with a Banks quick turbo exhaust housing. I cant seem to find any info on the quick turbo housing and Banks has never answered the few emails I have sent them. That and the fact my HX has 410k on it. No play in any direction so I guess that is a plus. Maybe a rebuild is all thats called for.

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Just remembered, I got some oil that ended up in a block when I removed the head.  My plan is just fill it with water for initial start up, and keep the thermostat out just put the oring in, and once I get it started and running, park slightly down hill, undo top radiator hose from radiator, shove a garden hose in radiator fill and let it run for a while like that. 

Another thing we used to do, is fire up a fresh rebuild motor with no coolant at all for maybe a minute or two just so gasket stick better to surface. Any thoughts. 

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@notlimah @BBHD intake horn is CFM plus, carbon fiber finish made out of some composite. Got it when I first bought the truck, not sure if I'd do it again for my set up. Probably good idea when you're trying to squeeze every hp out, not in mild application. But o well I got one now. One good thing it has multiple threaded ports, one I'm using for boost guage. 

Amsoil BMK21 single bypass, ( using eabp90 filter) I made a mount for it and welded it to the frame kinda under turbo, makes it easy to access from under the truck. I didn't like the idea of mounting it to apps bracket, no room and will make a mess.

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1 hour ago, jlbayes said:

The idea for this one too but I want SIMPLE. Not a silly controller and a temperamental turbah. Funny story....the 12v doesn't stop any worse with a trailer attached than it does with out one. SMFH

:lmao:  At least you have the hydroboost brakes right??

They are simple! @Me78569 you had any issues with your turbo in the last year?

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nadda turbo runs great, has since day 1.   It's kinda like the VP44, you tell it what to do and it does it.    You would have to pry it out of my cold dead hands at this point.  HOWEVER I am perfectly happy with my 400 hp truck lol

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1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

:lmao:  At least you have the hydroboost brakes right??

They are simple! @Me78569 you had any issues with your turbo in the last year?

 

Yes thank god.

 

Ain't care. I have a ve sitting on the shelf. Where it belongs. Me thinks this will be my primary. 176176

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Adjusted valves yesterday to 8/18 rotated the motor by alternator counterclockwise  (by the way crank turns counterclockwise also) and they were almost all at 10/20 so I readjusted them again and rotated it again, this time they stayed at 8/18, just so you know. Things had to settle. 

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Zach from North American Turbo just called me little bit ago and my turbo is done and on its way, and I should have it tomorrow. I'm extrimly happy with the service, can't wait to see it and actually use it, then I'll know more. It was 900 bucks shipped to me. Saved a 100 compare to k27, got to keep exhaust brake, my old turbo that I just rebuild, and it will support up to 500hp according to Zach. If I can have a safe 400hp I'd be very happy. So hopping this weekend I'll know a lot more. @jlbayes thanks again for pointing me in right direction. The turbine is from h1e from 10 liter diesel.

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Just came across this on other site, didn't realize the acceptable range. Not sure if I'd trust it.

 

Acceptable Intake lash range: 0.006 in. (0.152 mm) to 0.015 in. (0.381 mm)
Acceptable Exhaust lash range: 0.015 in. (0.381 mm) to 0.030 in. (0.762 mm )

If the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/resetting is not necessary. Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or level of engine noise.

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On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 at 0:27 PM, jlbayes said:

 

Yes thank god.

 

Ain't care. I have a ve sitting on the shelf. Where it belongs. Me thinks this will be my primary. 179176

 

Slight correction to the turbah part number.

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