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If I am going to do tie rod ends and steering components

portlandareae28
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portlandareae28

portlandareae28

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Okay, are you thinking stick with Dodge Parts? or is auto parts store/moog a good replacement in this situation?

 

Also I bought all new bushings for the front sway abr and links.  I pulled the links off the bar and the bar is out from under the truck but the links are IN there and don't want to be removed.  Is there a method to getting them out?

Edited by portlandareae28
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portlandareae28

portlandareae28

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Thank you, I may do that to the trackbar I just pulled out, but the truck literally has a new track bar in it currently with about 200 miles on it.  Fighting a clunk in the floor and I can see the loose steering components that need to be addressed so I want to address what I know needs to be addressed for sure and than attack the rest.  I am just quickly tiring of all of this so I need to be learning and attacking to get the steering/clunk dealt with and back to liking my truck again :-)

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portlandareae28

portlandareae28

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bumps

 

Per suggestion I hjave rolled the truck back and forth with the front wheel and not seeing any play in control arm bushings, though do see some compression of the spring and the shocks I would be money are done.  I am hoping to tear into the shocks this weekend.  Not a master at all of this so hopefully something stands out 

Edited by portlandareae28
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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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I think all track bars should be adjustable, when I got my truck the track bar was shot, I put a new one one just to find out I had to jack the frame up to put it in and that's how they go bad so quickly. Front springs get tired over time and track bar needs to be shorter or it constantly getting pushed towards passenger side and frame and axle are not straight. 

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dripley

dripley

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I am like you in not understanding the benefits of Y vs T. I am convinced there must be some difference but the only way I could know is to swap it out. I might do just this in the near future we will see. For now at 420k I am on the stock Y steering and it has been good for the most. Mine is getting worn and we will see what happens.

 That being said they both replace pretty much in the same way. All of these parts are bolt off and bolt on. Getting them apart is tricky if you have never done it before but not that difficult. I went in for an alignment at near 220k, my first since buying it new in 01. The shop told me it cost $900 to replace just enough to do a proper alignment maybe 40%  of the parts. I did not like that very much so I started looking for parts. I ended buying all the parts and some tools to replace every thing including all of the ball joints for the same $900. The only reason to replace the tie rods is if they are bent. I dont know how to tell you whether they are bent or not since new they are not all straight. I probably could have save some coin had I known at the time.

 Now with all of that being said, if you are seeing and feeling parts getting loose I would say do the whole thing, Y or T and the ball joints if they are worn. It is more money and time but was worth it for me to start all new and I knew my trucks history. Maybe you do not. I did my ball joints one saturday for on side and the other the next saturday. Then the tie rods the next weekend. I also took alot of beer breaks. You can do it all in one week end if you just barrell in and do it. I am not good at that. You will save money and be happy with the end results. Did my first rebuild at 60 years old and the next one I figure to be 66 so dont let it worry you. If I can do it anyone can as you dont mind getting dirty and turning a wrench.

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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3 hours ago, Royal Squire said:

How about a photo of your home made adjustable track bar

Not sure how well you can see it but basically it's a stock bar that I cut ball joint off and welded a pice of round stock same I'd as bushing side of track bar, went to parts store picked up poly bushing $15 then went to steel place got stock $5 then fasten all got a big fine thread bolt with 3 nuts $30 then chopped a 3 inch section of bar out and welded bolt on one side and nuts on the other, it might of been 4 inches can't remember now, but had to be shorter then stock by half inch so I could have the bar shortet. Everything is gusseted even bolt and nuts with round piece of pipe I had laying around that is just beraly fits over od of bar. When I was welding nuts together I grinded a v in them so I could fill it with welding wire, basically I over killed everything knowing it's an important part of handling. Been 4 or so years now no problems. I had a lot more time back then and that's why I dI'd it, now I'd probably just buy a kit.

 

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2 hours ago, portlandareae28 said:

I guess I am not knowledgeable enough to understand the benefits/differnce of the T vs the Y steering, why do most prefer the T?

Difference is on the y when you go over bumps body moves away from frame and it pulls on the y and changes your toe in and out especially on a worn track bar, on t tow doesn't change unless you change it, going up and down over bumps may be noticeable in steering wheel moving left and right a bit. 

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dripley

dripley

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I have seen the pictures just hard to grasp what the change would do. Heard a lot of good things about it though and the cost is comparable to the Y steering. So I have not written it off as of yet. I do know that when I rebuilt my Y steering, with MOOG by the way, it was as good or better than the stock parts. Never saw anything bad about MOOG until I had replaced all of mine with MOOG.

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