Dying ECM?

[Dieselfuture]

I think someone recently purchased and ECM from here https://www.remanautoelectronics.com/p/608-5-9L-Cummins-ECU.aspx

Personally if I would pay 2500 for an ECM I would do a p pump instead.

[dripley]

When my AM went 8 years ago I ended up at auto repair shop that got one for me thru Cummins for $1400 including programming. Maybe a shop can get a better price than the an odd man off the street. Dodge wanted around $2500 at the time plus the programming. Hence why I went the rebuild route. Might be worth a try if you know a shop that could try, don't know. $2500 bucks would be hard to swallow.

[Curt026]

Thanks for the link to that other site. Looks like a promising company. My luck id do a p pump swap and then shortly down the road the ecm decides to totally die. Then I'd have to buy one anyways. 2500 bucks is a reman too. Not even new. I have a feeling by the way the guy talked on the phone yesterday that if I go down there and have them test it and it's bad that just maybe they might be able to find a way to get account pricing on it or at least better than 2500. Still though I can't imagine it being a grand or more less than that but who knows. 

[Curt026]

Ordered the ecm from goecm.com  it was between there and that Rae place someone else mentioned. Couldn't find as much info online about them as I could go ecm but I now I'm sitting here second guessing myself on not buying from them. Goecm didn't need my vin number he said but the order would be processed tomorrownsince I called right at closing and if the tech needed it he would contact me. The lifetime warranty sold me but who knows. 

 

Edit: cummins service manager said he would only be able to hook up to the ecm and make sure it communicates. He said it will probably will based on my description and there is no way for him to see if something is wrong until it fails. Unfortunately it happens 10-15 minutes after the truck is fired up for the first time. 

Edited October 27, 2017 by Curt026

[Curt026]

Alternator showed back up on Wednesday. Pretty fast turnaround. According to the paper that was in the box it says they replaced the rectifier. No other info on it as far as what the old one or the new one tested at. But they covered it under warranty and shipped it back no charge eventhough it was 6 months out of their warranty timeframe. Unfortunately I was to excited last night and did not test ac voltage again after install which leads me to the next part. ECM came in yesterday. Got everything installed last night and started and ran the truck for an hour with zero hiccups. No codes and I ran through everything I could think of while driving to be sure. Cruise control works. Scanned after I shut it down and no codes were present. Anything else I should check that I'm missing? I plan on taking it for a good long drive tomorrow to be sure all is well and then send in the old one so I can get my core refunded. Time will tell on how it holds up but so far so good from goecm.com   Still have the low charging going on for some reason. Was hovering around 13.3 to 13.6 so I'm changing the batteries next. One seemed to be finicky while charging and both had a cell or two with what looked like the plates flaking a bit. Saw some black on the edges of the plates. I'd like to that everyone who helped and maybe this can be a source of info for someone down the road if they can weed through all my long and ridiculous posts!  Thanks again

[Mopar1973Man]

5 minutes ago, Curt026 said:

Unfortunately I was to excited last night and did not test ac voltage again after install which leads me to the next part.

 

Really should check the AC noise levels again to be sure. Really suck to have the ECM damaged again because the diodes were marginal at best. 

 

Be aware we are now going to start stocking the diode pack for the alternators now. Just don't have them in stock nor any information as of just yet but soon.

 

Edited November 4, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[Curt026]

Not just saying it but it was the first thing I intended to do.  I had the meter out and reaching down and couldn't pull the darn cap off the back of the alternator to probe it and had barely any light and was worried I'd was going to stick one of the leads in the fan. I know bad excuse but it will be done first thing tomorrow morning. I'm interested in the diodes if they fit the Bosch alternator. I still have my original that im planning on taking into work and restoring. I'm a tech at Eaton and restore low and medium voltage circuit breakers. I'm talking take them down to nothing and make them exactly what they left the assembly line looking like. Really interesting job for guys like us but I just started in June after doing flooring my whole life. So I'm learning the electrical world, but it's a lot to take in all at once.  Anyways what I meant to say is restoring this thing at work shouldn't be to bad. At least it will look nice if nothing else haha

[JAG1]

Just want to make sure I understand the importance of good grounding.... Is it true that poor grounding increases measurable A/C voltage noise from an alternator?

 

T.I.A.

[trreed]

@Curt026 a week back in this thread you mentioned unhooking the quadzilla, and that it was having issues with freezing. What is the quadzilla doing when it freezes? Does the screen lock up until the key is turned off and then back on?

Also, are you by chance running the new V2 tuning on your box?

Edited November 4, 2017 by trreed

[Curt026]

I'm sure poor grounding doesn't help, but I don't honestly know. I believe I also read somewhere that your batteries also filter out ac noise so that is another reason it is imperative to keep your batteries in good health. I'm not the expert on that though. As for the quadzilla, when it freezes the screen will lock up and truck goes to stock power. It remains like that until you turn the key off and restart. I noticed that it also seemed to say 12.9 or 13.0 for ecm voltage when it froze and would happen more frequent and faster on hotter days so I attributed it to a voltage issue. This is unit is from about 6-8 months prior to quadzilla going out of business back in the day. Looking on their website now I think I may send it in for a new board and get the iquad for my phone. Then remove the pulse and put my gauge cluster on the pillar since I plan on putting a new dash in. Darn thing was uncracked until a year or two ago when I installed the gauges up there. It wasn't 3-4 months later and it was cracking. I hate myself for that but what are you going to do

[trreed]

@Me78569 here's another report of it.... I never thought to check the ecm voltage

[Me78569]

I have not had the issue since I reseated the fuse tap.  

 

I ECM voltage is a canbus sensor so you would see what the ecm reports.   interesting.

[Curt026]

What am I missing gents? The pulse is labeled ecm voltage and it does seem to be accurate to when I fluke the battery or the alternator directly. Doesn't seem to be any voltage drop throughout the entire system. Or are you guys just brainstorming the way the old quadzillas worked? 

[Me78569]

Ecm voltage is what the ecm is reporting via the datastream.   So the ecm is seeing correct voltage

 

Talking about an issue Trevor and I are having.

[puglyfe]

@Curt026 How has your truck been since the ECM from goecm? I may be in the same position of needing one myself.

 

Thanks.