High amp alternator

[beren]

If you have access to Sam's Club, they sell about the best batteries you can buy. The Duracell line are rebranded Dekka/East Penn batteries, the only ones left that are still make 100% in the USA, from smelting to finishing. I shoved a group 10 AGM in mine, it has 800CCA/1000CA and 210 min RC. RC is how long it can supply 25A of power (average vehicle draw) before dying. So my single battery can supply 300W of power for over 3h. It doesn't fit quite perfect  in the battery box but it's in there ;-)

[Mopar1973Man]

18 minutes ago, beren said:

I shoved a group 10 AGM in mine

 

You'll have to go up against me as with some of the longest lasting lead acid batteries at 12-13 years old. There are a few tricks you can't do to AGM and tend to have shorter lifespans typically. You can't equalize charge an AGM. You can't top off AGM with distilled water, 

[beren]

On 2/10/2018 at 9:08 AM, outlaw7 said:

ok folks here it goes....... I found 2 grounds like w-t displayed, including one at the bottom of the ecm that had four 14awg tieed to a 10 awg that deadheads beside the starter on the block the fuel pump +12v is done this way as well as a couple buss sets and and a power set and I redid them all , I removed that big clump of orange wire that was like an extra foot and a half of uselessness, everything was fluxed soldered and heat shrunk to ease my mind....

 

This was acid-free solder too, right?

You may have problems down the road. Solder is not that good for electrical connections that move/vibrate a lot. The solder becomes brittle after a while and you get a bad joint, or the copper strands bread at the end of the solder. Cables like this should be crimped for the best connection. You can solder after if you want, but a good crimp fuses the copper together so tightly that no solder can get in anyway. You can get a cheap 20T crimper on eBay, just be careful you don't crimp too hard and blow out the slave cyl seal ;-) 

 

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/crimp-*and*-solder-a-crimp-connector-good-bad/

https://hackaday.com/2017/02/09/good-in-a-pinch-the-physics-of-crimped-connections/

 

I went through a lot of this when I looked at my battery cables and under the insulation was a green dusty mess. I stripped back the insulation until it was clean wire (4-14") cleaned the copper with some vinegar, then baking soda solution, then dried it, normal heat shrink, crimped on solid tinned copper heavy duty lugs, then 2-layer heat shrink to keep any&all water out. I got some solid zinc battery terminal adaptors to put on the lugs:

 

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/36375/2-0-GA-Battery-Lug-Terminal/

I had a NOCO TZKIT3 but I don't see it on amazon anymore, here's the same. Lead free!

http://www.prime4x4.com/shop/c/p/Military-Battery-Terminals-sku-MilTerm001.htm

12 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

You'll have to go up against me as with some of the longest lasting lead acid batteries at 12-13 years old. There are a few tricks you can't do to AGM and tend to have shorter lifespans typically. You can't equalize charge an AGM. You can't top off AGM with distilled water, 

 

No, but if the water is evaporating, you are doing something very, very wrong. A regular battery can't be discharged like an AGM either. I needed AGM for work where electronics run for a few hours at a time or longer, and this battery has done well even in the below zero days, although I started plugging in the truck for 2 hours to give it a hand. Equalize charging? Shouldn't be needed although there is 1 brand that recommends it, and at least one that says do not do it: http://shop.pkys.com/Battery-Equalization_ep_44.html That said, I'd still rather replace an AGM after 5-8 years and have 0 corrosion issues, a new set of battery cables is like $200 or more done right

[Mopar1973Man]

Might go up against my corrosion free 20 year old house power system with lead-acid batteries. this is only my second set of batteries. Equalized charged after topping off water about every month. These batteries are used 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. This is what powers my house. Even though I do have city power yet.

 

Edited February 12, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[W-T]

This thread High Amp Alternator, has branched into several areas of Electrical and Electronic subtopics. It may cause a little confusion however; this topic with it's highly comprehensive structure will reveal an overview of value to all who take the time to digest the contents.

 

With generic terminology, we are building a DC (direct current) power supply to correct and alleviate errors.

 

The two substantial storage batteries and the generating source (alternator) are the heart of the system. All Dodge CTD's were produced with substantial "power supplies" and the Bosch or Denso brand alternators are excellent choices to perform the task. These devices can produce up to 135 Amps of power when needed. Properly cared for and serviced they will provide years of trouble free service.

 

Is this system perfect?

 

No, however....they serve the average owner very well. As for Canadians in Saskatoon or Edmonton, Alberta, the design is reaching the upper limit in fortitude and may require additional effort to maintain reliability. I am not implying that Daimler/Chrysler cheated or cheapened the system...I'm simply stating, that any system (electrical) has it's limitations but, again, the average "Joe" rarely sees the maximum demand of conditions on a daily basis. Our Canadian friends experience such conditions...so they would be an excellent example of NOT being the average "Joe". There are other geographical areas that fall into this exception category...and each has particular thermal dynamics that places demands on designed vehicular "mobile power supplies".   

 

Moving forward, with sub-topic information, allow me to return to the dreaded "TC lock-unlock" syndrome. The majority of CTD owners with automatic transmissions have experienced this very annoying and detrimental error. The CTD owners with manual transmissions experience similar errors in a different way. Example; speedometer readings that are inconsistent, cruse-control erratic behavior...all of this comes right back to "power supply" problems.

 

@Mopar1973Manhas documented this and shined the light on the cause of this. There is NO doubt, to the validity of Mike Nelson's technical research. 

 

Prior to Mike's efforts, the "syndrome" was being discussed on several diesel oriented web sites. The enthusiasm of the CTD's fraternity encouraged a search for answers and Dodge dealership's were being approached to resolve the issues with reportedly poor resolve. Dealerships with under-trained or mildly experienced service technicians were being inundated with troubled service requests. Several aftermarket diesel retailers and specialty performance transmission facilities jumped into the game and offered their "fix" to the situation.

 

Many of you viewing this thread may very well have fallen into this unfortunate happenstance. I too, was pulled into this and purchased a device to alleviate the TC lock/unlock error.  I noted several suggestions from transmission specialists to "reroute" certain wires contained in harness assemblies in hope of separating signal (sensor) wires from an offending source within the bundle of wires.  

 

Again @Mopar1973Manhis research identified the cause and correctly suggested "fixing the power supply". Mike also warned against utilizing the "fixes" because it was masking the real issue. This is also very true and must be seriously considered. 

 

I would like to call your attention to the APPS (accelerator peddle position sensor) "signal-wire" that is routed directly to the PCM entering the most right hand connector. This control module is located on the passenger-side firewall. The "wire" is orange with a dark blue stripe. This photo depicts the "focus connector, black, far right hand" location.   This next photo I'm holding the "subject wire" with a small screwdriver (note the heat-shrink) where I removed a "fix" filter and surgically corrected my error.      This next photo depicts the actual device, that I have carefully removed the "shrink-wrap" to expose the internal electrical component that was encapsulated.This is a 180uF (180 microfarad) electrolytic capacitor. This component was encapsulated in shrink-wrap with two #18 copper wires exiting the package. One lead had a red-capped "piercing" connector, that allowed connection to the APPS signal wire at the PCM input (orange/DrkBlu) and the other lead was an eighteen inch pigtail ground lead. (Wow 18 inches to ground...silly).

 

This photo (poorly done) is the actual instructions from the retailer who provide these type(s) of devices. (I can't believe I actually did this to my truck)             This type of "fix" implemented on a "variable resistance" lead is improperly thought out. Note: the cost of this electrolytic capacitor is approximately 35 cents, the entire structure, build of material cost is less than $1.25 US.

 

An electrolytic capacitor is "large" in nature, electrically. They are used to "filter" DC power. Electrolytic capacitors have specified "voltage" ratings and from the above photo you can see the 25 volt rating. Note, in "all electronic" design, one would determine the maximum DC voltage present in the circuit and in selecting individual components that have a "voltage rating", the designer will specify a rating of at least "twice" the voltage level that the component will be "working in". This aspect was determined correctly by "who ever" designed this.

 

There is an issue here...electrolytic capacitors are "typically" used as a "filter" in DC power supplies. They "act" as large filters absorbing and containing (storing) an electric charge much like a battery stores an electrical state of charge at 12 volts.

 

I wish to keep this at a very basic level...and that is all we need here.

 

Now...we have all experienced working with our VOM's (volt-ohm meters)... we have all measured voltage and resistance with our test instruments. I believe most of us have some form of a "digital" ohm meter... that we have all used to "calibrate" the settings on our APPS, located above the VP-44. Once this is done, the procedure of "turning the ignition key to the ON position" (non-start) and slowly depressing the accelerator peddle to the floor and then releasing the peddle slowly, this then completes the important service of having the PCM recognize the "value" of the APPS. This is just an "electronic" handshake..."Hi, I'm your APPS" and the PCM says, "Well hello there, I'm certainly pleased to meet you"..."What did you say your name was again"? ...."Well, my name is APPS, and I'm zero ohms all the way up to five thousand ohms",...(you depressing the accelerator peddle)....the PCM says, "Oh yes...now I see your full name, I'm so glad we will be working together".

 

The APPS is just a "volume control" it is a potentiometer ( called a "pot" electronic slang)...these controls are everywhere and we use them all the time. To look at this a little closer...it is a variable "resistance" and when we drive, on occasion, we must step on the peddle to accelerate or release the peddle to slow down. The PCM sees this change in resistance and calculates what we want. 

 

Now...let us review the basics.

 

We showed the PCM what "zero" resistance was....yes?

 

We showed the PCM what 5000 ohms looked like....yes?

 

This is the "range" that the "handshake" (calibration) wishes to see between these two gentleman (APPS talking to the PCM).

 

Now...let us throw a little garbage into the mix...let's say a "bad diode" in a large (135 amp) alternator or perhaps a "poorly ground" frame of an alternator...or heck...let's make it really smelly garbage, with both aspects...leaky diode and poor ground reference ! (It's stinky)

 

Now...we have a poorly behaving "system". We all know this !

 

Now...let's refer to the "key" word here..."reference"....Ground reference...is ground! It was so important to teach (calibrate) our APPS to "talk to" the PCM and use the "language" that both would understand or agree to..."zero" to 5000 ohms...yes...they both "liked this" and they shake hands in agreement. (BTW...I'm just using zero to 5K as an example) it doesn't really matter.

 

Now...with a poorly performing "power supply" (noise,ripple, bad grounds) and the introduced complications this brings to our poor and "misunderstanding" Mr.PCM ...he doesn't know what to do with this stinky (language) garbage. So...he starts do do some funny things!

 

We all know this and we all dislike his humor.

 

Now...let's go back to this "fix"...someone, somewhere with just enough knowledge to be dangerous decides this CTD problem needs a band-aid to fix the boo-boo. (Mike Nelson knew right away)

 

We now know an electrolytic capacitor acts like a battery or filter ....yes?

 

If you place this rather large (filter/battery) at the input of the PCM...it kills the stink (ripple).

 

But...something new is now introduced...recall our efforts to calibrate the value between the APPS and the PCM? We wanted both of these guys to talk to one another and shake hands as friends. The starting point is "zero" or zero ohms that both could see eye-to-eye and fully agree as to what "ground reference" IS ! 

 

This new device in the circuit pathway is being "bump charged" by the ripple current...this positive charge is now being stored in the "electrostatic medium" (or battery) structure of the capacitor  ( it's holding voltage) at a level that is supposed to be zero or ground reference!

 

Now...Mr. APPS is standing on a chair above the floor (ground) and Mr. PCM can no longer look Mr. APPS in the eye...in fact Mr. PCM does not like this and starts doing funny things.

 

Also, when you "snap" your throttle to rev the Cummins and release the throttle the instantaneous physical action is something we all experience...NOW with this "filter/battery" inline with the APPS and PCM...the electrolytic has a disturbing trait...he's kind of slow on the uptake and slow on the "i'm done now" performance. You know...the poor kid who always got picked last on the flag-football team back in 5th grade because he was to slow to carry the ball?...and when the whistle blew at the end of the play he refused to give the ball back to the coach? Nobody wanted this guy on the team...sorry...I think I was that guy.

When you watch a movie on satellite TV...have you seen that funny thing where the voice doesn't match up with the moving lips of the actor? This "latency" is an example of what an electrolytic capacitor does in a circuit...yes they are used in correctly designed circuits that require the properties of an electrolytic capacitor...they do NOT belong in the conversation between Mr. APPS and Mr. PCM.

 

Who ever elected to implement this into this "circuit", introduced many other issues.

 

The time it takes to calibrate an APPS and then perform the handshake with the PCM is fully void when you drop bulk capacitance into this equation. We do not need this here.

 

For all who have installed "filters" to correct TC lock/unlock issues, I would encourage a review of this decision.

 

Bottom line...fix your power supply first.

 

Cheers,  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Alexio Auditore]

So is the fix then buying a new, higher power alternator, like the one you showed a few pages back, to keep up with the demand of our trucks? And does that require having to do a lot of electrical work to the truck in order to use a higher amp alternator. I'm electronically dull, so this may be a issue for me to do on my own.( in other words, can you just put the new alternator in and go?)

 

And like Mike has said, is the issue showing up now because the grid heaters are demanding more than they used to, or are the new parts and rebuilds just poor quality parts, and the real solution is just installing what should've been an originally higher amperage alternator?

[W-T]

On ‎2‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 12:58 PM, Alexio Auditore said:

can you just put the new alternator in and go?

If you have determined that the AC ripple is beyond what is tolerable along with experiencing other undesired operational irregularities (TC lock/unlock, erratic cruse control) then a replacement alternator would be in order however; prior to making that expenditure a diligent review of the extensive "key DC" grounds should be reviewed. The alternator itself must be at a solid DC ground in order to produce the least amount of AC ripple on it's own B+ output. I expressed quite a surprise when I removed my original equipment alternator to discover the lack of ground continuity through the beautiful beefy mounting system. 

 

These 135 Amp factory alternators are very stout power producing devices and with a healthy system (batteries in proper condition) there maybe no reason to spend the money. If the performance has satisfied your needs for years then perhaps a quality rebuild is all that is required. 

 

My requirements include a system of power demanding devices that can sink an additional 100 Amps when fully powered up. Hence, the procurement of a 270 Amp device but, I wouldn't advise that for everyone.

 

Any higher powered generating device will require additional upgrades but, mostly just the main B+ DC lead. The factory #6 encapsulated in the harness passing in front of the engine prior to terminating in the PDC (power distribution center) is only barely able to survive at a full 135 Amp draw if your batteries sagged enough to require that continuous level of current requirement. That #6 will cause problems if left within the factory harness. Adding an additional B+ lead as a parallel lead will divide the current equally and remove the worry of possible melt down during high current demand situations.

 

As for Grid Heater elements requiring additional current as they age...no that is not the case. They react just as light bulbs do...you run them, they get hot and they someday, cease to conduct and open up. They are strictly resistive elements  and the robust nature of these heating elements represents long life. 

 

If you do elect to procure a new alternator, one feature for consideration would be a 6 phase platform over the OE 3 phase. The higher phase product is inherently cleaner DC....the ripple frequency is higher and the excursions in amplitude would be much less....hence you get a cleaner power supply.

 

The upper-end manufacturers do not require you to purchase a smaller serpentine belt...this also aids in the "just drop in a new alternator" simplification factor.           

Edited February 23, 2018 by JAG1

[Mopar1973Man]

Just for fun... I went out and did the AC noise test grabbed my Fluke 75 meter and got ~0.032 AC volt at idle and with all stock loads on in the cab I barely tipped ~0.040 AC volts. 

 

So I pull the alternator cleaned all the contact points of the alternator and brackets. I'll admit the bolts had some rust on the exposed areas but the contact faces and the threads where still clean. I wire brushed everything clean including the brackets and the bolts then lighting greased everything. Assembled again... 

 

Retested and got the very same numbers as before. So grounding isn't exactly my issue with my problem it trying to figure out what is dropping the huge load on the diodes and causing them to overheat. Coming back to the grid heater. 

 

Now after talking to @W-T that the solenoid/relays could be a issue with contacts pitted over time. Scratching my head and thinking that if the contacts go bad like starter contact then the power is reduced ot the grid heater reducing the load on the alternator. I'm still thinking the grid heater is changing its ohm value over time and becoming a more of dead short as the heating element wears out.

[dave110]

@Mopar1973Man. That inductive ammeter you showed a few pages back. I scored a vintage Blue Point set over the weekend. When I get it I can send it to you to check your amp. draw if you wish.  Let me know. I want to check mine too and compare the grids in the truck now to the spare set I have. The loose grounds in the wire harness these guys are finding are interesting finds, but I'm feeling the source of the problem lies with the grids also. I have a feeling it will get figured out here sooner or later.

[outlaw7]

Well harness is back in my cc'd buss is working again the computers are good to go about the solder comment I guarantee they won't fail trust that for one my harness ain't riding the block no more it's away from it no need to heat soak that thing my mods are great I now have a digital led voltage display on my vp44 power feed and an in cab test ppoint for apps no more guessing my only prob is I've concluded my VP is dieying a slow death o well 

[W-T]

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I went out and did the AC noise test grabbed my Fluke 75 meter and got ~0.032 AC volt at idle and with all stock loads on in the cab I barely tipped ~0.040 AC volts. 

 

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I wire brushed everything clean including the brackets and the bolts then lighting greased everything. Assembled again... 

 

Retested and got the very same numbers as before.

Excellent results Mike, and with a 3 phase 6 diode platform the ripple percentage is well within specification. I have no reason to question the integrity of your storage batteries regarding interconnection cabling. Your anal retentive maintenance disciplines are beyond reproach and as I bow to your examples I will recite, " I am not worthy".  

 

But, your hypothetical observation of the solenoids is very interesting. This "extremely high current" switching system may require some investigation. These devices are "switches" and the environment they survive in is hostile at the instantaneous moment in time where they are "hot switched" making or breaking the current path. Now this event is really quite catastrophic for the "point contacts" of these devices. These solenoids have been "hot switching" 95 Amps @14volts plus DC for many years. The entire "power load" appears across these conductive elements (P=E*I...14*95= 1,330 Watts) as the conductive path is energized each and every time the system triggers a demand. The event is both coming and going if you will. Now observing this, equates to an arc-welder and we certainly see this visually...no delicate instrument required. Fresh, new contacts within the solenoids structure has a pair of contacts with physical dimensions of proportional aspects to what this solenoid is "rated" at. The spacing of these contacts is determined by the "peak voltage" rating of the solenoid...these ratings are absolute. Now, as we energize (spark on) and de-energize (spark off) the metal structure of the contact points are blown-away with each action event. In time, the contact surfaces become pitted and also...over time, the length of time it takes for the solenoid to open or close (on & off) increases. The "dwell" of this rouge SPARK begins to lengthen and visually becomes more impressive. 

 

I'm wondering, is it possible to consider this event "from a time stand point" that as our alternators are in motion and the "making and breaking" action of the alternator brushes on the "rotor" is being assaulted by the lengthening of the "sparked dwell"....the timing of this could possibly be a contributing factor of "short run life" of an alternator?

 

I have not considered this on our vehicles...again Mike, your observations cause me pause.

 

Perhaps a review of of high current switching contact points within a solenoid needs to be addressed with a simple snubber-RC circuit to aid in arc suppression. This wouldn't correct out of tolerance contact points but, it would help promote contact life and eliminate the "stroke of lightening" splashing the entire electrical platform within these trucks... could this also be an excellent preventative measure to help the VP-44, ECU and PCM electronic failure rates?

 

Holy cow Mike...these speculations are very interesting.

 

Allow me some time to digest your observations.           

[Mopar1973Man]

32 minutes ago, W-T said:

I'm wondering, is it possible to consider this event "from a time stand point" that as our alternators are in motion and the "making and breaking" action of the alternator brushes on the "rotor" is being assaulted by the lengthening of the "sparked dwell"....the timing of this could possibly be a contributing factor of "short run life" of an alternator?

 

The armatures are solid rings. So the field power is constant. No like a starter armature with multiple contacts or commutator. The only time you would have make and break is like my second alternator had a bad rear case and the bearing was loose in the case so the armature could bounce away from the brushes and break contact. Not seen another like this ever. 

 

Still need to chase down the excessive load problem. Something has changed and exceeding the load rating of the alternator ro cause the diodes to overheat. Currently, I do not have any grid heaters and no alternator issue. So there is something to be said about my theory of the grid heaters being a cause. 

[JAG1]

W-T, the way you write.... It's enough to get a complete Alzheimmered guy to sit up and pay attention.

[W-T]

37 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

The armatures are solid rings. So the field power is constant.

My error in communication...the making and breaking of large current demands can mark or scar conductive surfaces. The inductive principles of an alternator are subject to outside source back-pulse if the electromagnetic force is large enough. 

 

37 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Still need to chase down the excessive load problem. Something has changed and exceeding the load rating

Sorry Mike, I must question the integrity of the rebuild facility  and your observations of solenoid action could be a contributing aspect to shortened life of the alternator. There is NO arc suppression on these solenoids and the event is only dampened by the parallel presence of the storage battery(s).

 

Also, solid state principles of a silicon PN junction, for a large 50 Amp diode...they will open and not conduct but, they never become a full conductive element...so what we deal with is that it, works good or not at all. 

 

The load rating...this system will provide 135 Amps from an alternator at speed...we also have two large storage batteries with approximately  1000 Amps each so...if we add this up as a parallel source we have 2135 Amps at 13.8 volts, the power level is 29,463 Watts available at full on insanity grunt. This is extremely impressive...the alternator is the smallest element in this equation. However; when the large current demand of both Grid Heaters activated at the same time the current demand of 190 Amps is paralleled from the systems sources. The large storage batteries are directly providing this current and the alternator only replenishes the loss of "head charge" being removed from the storage batteries. From a straight DC current observation at say 14 volts (engine running alternator charging) we are seeing a timed period where 2,660 Watts being dissipated as heat. Funny enough...this is not quite 10% of what this system is capable of....in a controlled circumstance of course. Now I'm not saying "nothing" is wrong...but, I do not understand why you've lost so many alternators in a short period of time. I don't think you have unknown sources sinking current....I question the supply line of where are these alternators are coming from?

 

If the alternator was providing 135 Amps for extended periods of time I would expect the heat aspect to become excessive. Also, that factory #6 encapsulated in the harness running across the front of the engine and finally breaking out and feeding into the PDC...wow that number 6 is going to melt and fuse with all the other wires within that harness...God forbid !  So...just from a reasonable stand point...is your alternator running at red-line? Is it providing charge at maximum level nonstop for excessive periods of time? Are your storage batteries in such poor condition that the alternator can't replenish the head charge in a reasonable period of time?

 

Knowing you...I could not imagine any of these conditions would be present under your command.

 

With great respect....I must return to the question...where are these alternators coming from?  

 

2 hours ago, W-T said:

As for Grid Heater elements requiring additional current as they age...no that is not the case. They react just as light bulbs do...you run them, they get hot and they someday, cease to conduct and open up. They are strictly resistive elements  and the robust nature of these heating elements represents long life.

Sorry, I'm not budging on this...light bulbs do not begin to sink additional current in age. It's very uniform across the life due to the vacuum of the glass envelope. These Grid Heater elements are very large conducting surfaces and in time they will out live the power supply. A grievous error of dropping a conductive tool across the elements would indeed cause a parallel circuit and knowing the resistance is around .073 Ohms...less resistance would of course result in additional current being dissipated....however, who would leave a 3 inch extension across the grid face and put the airhorn back in place?

 

1 hour ago, dave110 said:

That inductive ammeter you showed a few pages back. I scored a vintage Blue Point set

   These inductive devices will provide an indication of current but, not shop level reference. High current spec's are obtained by calibrated "shunted" instruments and they are easy to build. Be cautious shipping jeweled movement instruments  through the mail.

[Nekkedbob]

I for one agree that the diode failure seems to be caused by heat. I had a brain storm last year when researching alternators and my thought was to over build the stock alternator with something in the way of 200 amp diodes mounted externally. As I see it the max output at 130 amps should not come anywhere close to stressing the diodes at that point. My only problem is sourcing the parts and getting their dimensions. I kept my old core but it was rebuilt once before and all of the tags are missing. Come next spring I will pursue this farther. I didn't want to go with any of the after market unit because I do spend 30 days on the road in the fall and want to be able to find parts if needed.     

[JAG1]

I like that idea Bob .  will wait for the results.

 

Actually your talking about a lot of heat with these little alternators.  Even if diodes hold for awhile the alternator becomes less efficient as heat rises .Efficiency rating can go down as much as 50% and  shows the reason for a desirable large frame alternator, helping to absorb, and act as a heat sink. The book I have says you should always order an alternator with twice the capacity needed because of this efficiency drop. Aircraft have a cooling tube blowing at theirs, but that's for faster air speeds perhaps.

Edited February 13, 2018 by JAG1

[015point9]

On 2/3/2018 at 8:18 AM, JAG1 said:

 

....

See pics on Turbo Diesel Register forum under Second Gen Engine and Transmission. Thread topic is,'' 1999 3500 w/ TC Lock Unlock Problem''. Look at posts 11-15. Mopar Man says no big deal but it did solve this guys transmission hunting even after 25,000 miles.

 

Sorry, I tried to do  a link but didn't work.

 

FYI...follow up in latest TDR issue 99 starting on page 8. Then guys at Geno's added work they did, ending article that they don't think they have "final answer" either. 

Edited February 23, 2018 by 015point9

[wh82]

On 1/15/2018 at 9:40 AM, W-T said:

BTW...not even Nations builds to these specifications....they buy their upper-end higher current devices from a source in Riverside California.

Just as I suspected... That's why I keep excluding them from the article I posted below which seems to be invisible with the amount of alternator questions recently.

 

On 1/15/2018 at 10:28 AM, JAG1 said:

Beside an alternator with double capacity, what other recommendations do you have to help upgrade the system?

 

Grounds, Grounds, Grounds!.. Even if you're not running things like I run (Stereo, Radio gear, etc) All vehicles can benefit from cable upgrades... A lot of people refer to it as the "Big 3 upgrade" Bad ground cables (either corroded as @mopar1973man pictured) or insufficient quality/size will help amplify the noise and restrict current.

 

On 1/15/2018 at 11:13 AM, skyhigh4by said:

So with all that said. Where do we find such an alternator that is up to the task

 

 

Edited February 26, 2018 by wh82