Consensus on tapped pump

[Dieselfuture]

@AH64ID I think the reason manufacturer recommends shorter intervals is just to cover their behind and maybe sell more filters. I always wondered how does the filter go bad unless it's plugged,  so in my mind as long as pressure drop doesn't occur more than normal,  or the filter housing rusts away assuming it's a spin on, I'm going to keep using them. I haven't changed my fuel filters in a few years now, but I also only have maybe 25k on them now.  but still they look great on the outside and I don't have big PSI swings 2 PSI Maybe. Does filter media go bad or maybe if they use any glue deteriorates?  just trying to figure out how they even go bad. Not arguing by any means. 

[AH64ID]

Most filters still contain some sort of cellulose media and it can go bad over time. There are non-cellulose filters too, like the NanoNet I use and recommend, and they should last longer but they can still wear. Over 25K miles there are thousands of gallons of fuel being pushed thru the media and if the media were to get a small tear you’d never see it on the psi gauge. Additionally water separators are less efficient at higher flow/vacuum which may not be seen on a final pressure gauge since FASS/AD move more fuel out of the tank than they push to the engine. 

 

Filters are cheap, and they are crucial to good component life. They shouldn’t be changed too often, but they should be changed regularly. 

 

[Mopar1973Man]

9 hours ago, AH64ID said:

Wow that's a long interval.

 

Comparing to pressure drop and media color its not. I've cut open filters at 15k miles, 30k miles and 60k miles. 15k is a waste both filters look brand new out of the box, 30k miles the filter are very very lightly discolored still a waste. 60k miles you now have a good color change of the media still no pressure drop.

 

here is 15k miles. This is absolute waste changing this early...

 

10 hours ago, AH64ID said:

Based on the research I have done on filters I recommend 30K miles, 18 months, or until you see a pressure drop and whichever comes first.

 

ZERO pressure change. Even my last filter change was at 60k miles and zero pressure drop.

 

45 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

Additionally water separators are less efficient at higher flow/vacuum which may not be seen on a final pressure gauge since FASS/AD move more fuel out of the tank than they push to the engine. 

 

Like both water separator I checked at 60k miles and zero water found in my capture container.

[AH64ID]

A pressure drop on a FASS/AD is a late sign, remember they divert fuel back to the tank with air... That fuel flow will decrease to maintain the set output pressure. A pressure drop on a AD/FASS, with a return line, indicates a huge restriction and is too late. It's important to watch for pressure drops on these systems as it would indicate a plugged filter, but that's more in the event of a bad batch of fuel than for service interval. For pumps without a return the pressure is a much better indicator of filter life, and why people without return lines see a pressure drop sooner. 

 

At 60K miles at a 40 mph average over 130K gallons of diesel have gone thru the filters, and over 3K gallons burned. The f/w sep will have had more than that pulled thru it. These aren't big filters. 

 

Unfortunately there will always be trace amounts of moisture that cannot be filtered/separated, especially with some of the filters on the AD/FASS cross reference list, and by the time they get to the OEM pump they have been re-emulsifed by the AD/FASS making them even harder to remove. This trace amount of moisture will have an effect on cellulose media over time. 

 

Having multiple filters in series will extend the serviceable life, but it won't push it 4 times the life of a single filter. The filters have to be good filters thou, and the wire mesh AD filter,FS19768, doesn't count as a filter it's a rock guard, and that's data from Fleetguard. If the inital f/w sep isn't rated for the flow of the AD the first filter to do anything is the final filter on the AD and now it's a secondary filter with primary filtration duties, that's going to decrease filter life, not extend it. 

 

15K miles is too soon, for sure, on systems with multiple staged filters. 

 

If you look at industrial applications they call for fuel filter changes in the 300-500 hour range. Most of those motors have primary/secondary filters as well. What is 60K miles? 1500 hours?

Edited January 11, 2018 by AH64ID

[015point9]

I  install a used fuel tank.  Cleaned it out best I could before installing.  Think I would change df100 Airdog filters at 1000 miles two times then 5000 miles and then back to normal schedule.

 

Good plan???  Bad plan???

Edited January 11, 2018 by 015point9

[AH64ID]

11 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

I  install a used fuel tank.  Cleaned it out best I could before installing.  Think I would change df100 Airdog filters at 1000 miles two times then 5000 miles and then back to normal schedule.

 

Good plan???  Bad plan???

 

How dirty was it?

 

 

[015point9]

11 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

How dirty was it?

 

 

 

Pretty bad even had bird nest. Cleaned what I  could with pressure washer and wiped out with paper towels until towels no longer had dirty marks on them.  But my arm or etc tools couldn't get the ends.  Let dry, no water inside before install.

[Sycostang67]

On 1/9/2018 at 8:39 PM, portlandareae28 said:

I have an edge comp box already, not tapped currently.  Truck on 5x5 untapped can hit approx 18psi of boost on a hard run, problem is fuel psi dropped to 10 on that run.  So fuel pressure needs to be addressed before anything.  But seems like it should make a little more boost than that, no?  I did look and there is no boost elbow.  It is stock air box and 4” straight exhaust (nv 5600).  Does the comp box need a boost elbow? Or if i am tapped will it fool the boost?  Sorry for so many questions but coming from the 7.3 I don’t feel I have a good grasp yet on all of this.

 

The Edge boxes do boost fool, even the EZ.  The boost elbow is why you need the boost fooling though.  The elbow lets you get more boost than stock(18-20psi) usually to around 30psi.  The truck will throw a code though if it goes over 20psi, hence the boost fooling from the Edge box to make the truck think everything is normal.  Without the pump tapped though, I doubt you are gaining any extra power above level 3. Tap the pump and get an elbow, they run about $20 I think, you won't regret it. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Untapped no matter what setting it's only CANBus fueled and limited to 65 HP.

[jlbayes]

Or a maximum of a 4095 message on the bus for you nerds. 

[Mopar1973Man]

12 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

Or a maximum of a 4095 message on the bus for you nerds. 

 

Correct... For your OBDII people that is 100% engine load. Engine load equal fueling message just converted from 0 - 4095 to a percentage. 

Edited January 12, 2018 by Mopar1973Man