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jlbayes
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jlbayes

jlbayes

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8 minutes ago, dripley said:

I don't like the word long. I don't see me doing studs either.

 

Stock (or small) turbo trucks with injectors & tuning are harder on head gaskets than about anything I have ever seen. Speaking from experice here lol.

 

1 minute ago, notlimah said:

 

Well I'm gonna have to do it eventually so I might as well learn!

 

Yeppppp!

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notlimah

notlimah

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3 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

 

Stock (or small) turbo trucks with injectors & tuning are harder on head gaskets than about anything I have ever seen. Speaking from experice here lol.

 

So I'm about to throw in some 7x.012s with my HX, you think I need studs right meow?!

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jlbayes

jlbayes

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Welp the head is back on. Studs are installed. As well as the new injectors.. Got a couple little quirks to fix but I'll get to it. Cleaning out the oil coolant mix SUCKED. Took me about 6 hours to get most of it out. In the end Lysol dish soap worked the best, even better than the purple power I was using initially.

 

The beginning of the head studs. In the picture you can clearly see I painted most of the stud with moly. Why? The moly lube will keep the black oxide coating from corroding. The majority of the studs on a 12v are exposed. The 24v trucks do not have this issue as most of their studs are under the valve cover. Only 6 studs on a 12v are under the valve cover. So all the rest get painted.

20180414_115421.jpg

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jlbayes

jlbayes

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33 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Funny how heating and cooling will draw moisture into the weirds little places to do damage. Good Tip!

 

Very.

 

18 minutes ago, notlimah said:

@jlbayes you still gonna do a full write up for stud install?

 

Yes. I'm getting there. I need to do the first retorque still on it. Why I did not go into the full scale version yet.

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Texas CTD

Texas CTD

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Do you use the ARP lube for torquing? Is there a substitute for it? 

 

Finally got my head back from the machine shop, (they took their sweet time, and lost some of my parts) and I'm ready to go back together with it this weekend, but I realized I didn't have any ARP lube. Can't find it locally, and I ordered a bottle online, but it's saying it won't be here til next week...

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jlbayes

jlbayes

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Ok 1-3 are for retorquing the head. Completely remove the nut and washer. Relube the stud, bottom of the washer and then the nut. Pull torque right to arp spec of 125ft lbs for the 2000 series studs. You do one stud at a time so as to not lose your clamp load on the gasket.

 

4-7 are the axle swap. Front was donated by the green truck and I had bought a disc dana 70 from a buddy. All new 3rd gen brakes front and rear with stainless steel flex lines. Mofo STOPS now.

 

The last two pics are for the 2nd gear servo. The red sonnax is what I removed. The black tcs was installed in place.

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jlbayes

jlbayes

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1) Russel makes a kit for the disc/drum trucks. Crown performance makes a kit for the disc/disc trucks.

 

2) It's there. Just spread out at the moment. Piece all the head studs post together.

 

Follow the arp sequence for the initial torque along with painting the exposed studs. Get the engine to operating temp. Shut it down and let it sit *This next piece is very important.* The engine HAS to be ambient temperature when doing the retorque. Completely remove the nut and washer. Relube the stud, bottom of the washer and then the nut. Pull torque right to arp spec of 125ft lbs for the 2000 series studs. You do one stud at a time so as to not lose your clamp load on the gasket. I generally do this for a total of 3 retorques. The first is usually the next day after it has cooled. The other in a week and the next one in another week.

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