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Thanks for all the info. My education continues.

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Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

Any advantage to 14mm studs and do all blocks need machine work to run em?

 

None in 98% of applications. Yes as stock they are only 12mm.

 

18 hours ago, dripley said:

I looked at their site and all I saw was for 03 to 11 trucks. Is that what you used? 

 

Yes. :thumb1: I called and spoke with them so they had an idea of what I was doing (axle swap). He questioned me at first but then understood I was aware they may not work. However they worked great. Just had to shorten my hard lines on the rear axle.

 

18 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I'm guessing sequence is not important, meaning you don't have to go inside out in circular pattern on head studs. Just start at one end and work your way to the other? I can see it being important only on the initial head gasket install, not when doing one stud at a time.

 

Correct. As the gasket is already compressed/seated/bedded. I start at the back as it is the worst to do lol.

 

15 hours ago, Texas CTD said:

I'm don't want to rain on Jacob's parade or cause conflict by posting another opinion, but I'm sure he'd be fine with the procedure I'm about to post as well.

This is from Josh (jmd025) on Cummins Forum...

 

I modified mine a bit from Josh's process. :thumb1:

 

15 hours ago, dripley said:

So if I set my torque wrench to 125 ft lbs what can I expect?

 

It will just click with minimal to no movement.

 

13 hours ago, Texas CTD said:

 

If you have a fastener hand tight, and you set you're torque wrench to 125 ft/lbs, and you sweep up til it clicks in one motion, with proper lube and a properly calibrated torque wrench, you're at 125 ft/lbs.

 

If you have a fastener torqued to 125 ft/lbs, and you want to "re-torque" the way of the interwebz, you set your torque wrench to 125 ft/lbs and click it. Unless a fastener has lost considerable pre-load due to heat/cool cycles, it won't move, and your torque wrench will click... It takes more than 125 ft/lbs of torque to get that already tight fastener moving, due to static friction, so actual pre-load on that fastener is lower than what your wrench just told you.

 

By removing the nut and washer to re-torque a head stud, you lose the static friction, and lube the snot out of it to minimize kinetic friction during the re-torque to be as accurate as possible.

 

May not be the best scientific explanation, but that's what I have experienced messing around with torque wrenches a little.

 

Jacob might say otherwise. lol

 

No objections, very correct. You do not want to try and use breakaway torque as an accurate measurement on any fastener.  Unless you are trying to measure it lol.

Edited by jlbayes
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Had a question on studs. If you reuse studs do you still need to retorque them, or are you not supposed to be using studs. Or is the retorque more for the head gasket and not for stretching a stud. Reason I'm asking is on my truck I have A1H11 studs from PO, I reused them and the read online that they don't require retorque. I wasn't sure what to torque them down to so I went to 135. One thing I did do is after everything was torqued down to specs to final torque, I went through the sequence and loosened up each one relubed it and retorque right back down to final 135. I've done this before on other vehicles and never had a problem but just want to get your expertise opinion. 

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