grid heater delete

[Mopar1973Man]

8 hours ago, dripley said:

Mine are disconnected and when it got cold here in Maryland I would plug mine in for 30 to 45 minutes with great results. I dont think the engine missed the grids at all.

 

Exactly what I did this last winter. When the mornings where cold I would plug in the truck when I got up in the morning by the time I got coffee and dressed for the day the truck was warmed up good. Started without a hitch.

 

10 hours ago, KATOOM said:

Just because your truck starts in cold temperatures without the grid heater doesnt mean a functioning grid heater isnt helping reduce fuel wash and injector buildup while the intake temperatures are down.  Just thinking out loud.

 

Remember the larger industrial Cummins don't even have grid heaters or glow plugs in some applications.

 

7 hours ago, AH64ID said:

I've never noticed a difference in the way the truck idles with or without a grid heater, aside from the 1 time I started it at -15° without a grid heater. 

 

Only the 2nd Gen with there crappy 16.3:1 compression ratio. I can start down in the 20's without grid heaters but that engine is not happy for the first 10 seconds. 

 

My typical startup. I fire the truck up hit the exhaust brake. This drives the EGT's above the shutdown limit of the Quadzilla (275*F) and I can remove the key from the ignition. Now while @MoparMom is getting ready for leaving the truck will idle up 1,200 RPM on the Quadzilla and warm up to 140*F and drop. After 5 minutes the engine just shuts down if we are not ready. Either way the engine has had some warmup time its above 140*F at least. and Ready for the day. 

[Dieselfuture]

@Me78569 could you please remind me again your latest Flash with 374 f setting, how does that work haven't used it in a while. My brain hurts from thinking.

[KATOOM]

9 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

My typical startup. I fire the truck up hit the exhaust brake. This drives the EGT's above the shutdown limit of the Quadzilla (275*F) and I can remove the key from the ignition. Now while @MoparMom is getting ready for leaving the truck will idle up 1,200 RPM on the Quadzilla and warm up to 140*F and drop. After 5 minutes the engine just shuts down if we are not ready. Either way the engine has had some warmup time its above 140*F at least. and Ready for the day. 

 

I kinda remember you agreeing with someone's comment about others going through too much effort to build a better mousetrap...

That hypocrisy would be real.....since anyone reading your above post needs to understand you drive a 2002.  So everything you just described would the epitome of a "better mouse trap".  

[AH64ID]

10 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Only the 2nd Gen with there crappy 16.3:1 compression ratio. I can start down in the 20's without grid heaters but that engine is not happy for the first 10 seconds. 

 

 

I'm only at 16.8:1, but the pilot really helps. 

 

10 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

My typical startup. I fire the truck up hit the exhaust brake. This drives the EGT's above the shutdown limit of the Quadzilla (275*F) and I can remove the key from the ignition. Now while @MoparMom is getting ready for leaving the truck will idle up 1,200 RPM on the Quadzilla and warm up to 140*F and drop. After 5 minutes the engine just shuts down if we are not ready. Either way the engine has had some warmup time its above 140*F at least. and Ready for the day. 

 

About 8-10 years ago, before I had my POS DD, I would start the truck for 3-5 minutes with the exhaust brake on. Rpms would increase to 1000.It really did help the truck warm up faster, but I was shocked at the UOA from that winter. The soot level more than doubled, and when I quit that habit the soot level returned to normal. Needless to say, I don't think using the exhaust brake on a cold motor is a good ideal. 

 

The 6.7's do it automatically, but they don't apply full closure like a mechanical brake on the 5.9's. 

[Me78569]

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

@Me78569 could you please remind me again your latest Flash with 374 f setting, how does that work haven't used it in a while. My brain hurts from thinking.

Quote

 

This flash is a one off flash that contains all the stable functions of the normal 2.7 V2 flash, but it has a built in long idle function for keeping the truck running on key off, IF and ONLY IF, EGT turbo timer is set to 374*f.  The truck will idle until coolant temps come up to whatever your warmup temp is set to, regardless of what EGT's fall to .  

 

This gives you the ablity to start the truck, key off, lock the doors, and let the truck idle, for warmup, while your keys are in your pocket.  

 

Typical if tps > 0 will kill the truck as well.  

 

[AH64ID]

I was reading thru my dads '17 owners manual and came across the info on the remote start. The colder it is the shorter the remote start will let the engine run, with as little as 90 seconds in extreme cold (wasn't quantified). Just goes to show that Cummins really doesn't want you idling a diesel to warmup, even with increased rpms and exhaust brake backpresure. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Weird you mention soot level vs exhaust brake. Being the original document suggested using the exhaust brake for warm up. I tend to agree that it seems to increase soot. Ill watch on my next oil change how quick I darken the oil without the exhaust brake.

[AH64ID]

6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Weird you mention soot level vs exhaust brake. Being the original document suggested using the exhaust brake for warm up. I tend to agree that it seems to increase soot. Ill watch on my next oil change how quick I darken the oil without the exhaust brake.

 

Yes they all mention it, and it does work well!

 

If it weren't for the UOA I wouldn't have ever known the difference. My stock motor turned the oil black as soon as you changed it. This motor doesn't, but it still happens fast. 

[Mopar1973Man]

 I get 1k to 1.5k before its black. Roughly. But I've been good about 6k to 7k oil changes. Every 1.5 months.

[Dieselfuture]

Mine stays clean on dipstick close to 2k but I do have a bypass filter. I change mine once a year usually unless I get use of it, but sometimes once a year means 4-5k if I drive a lot then every 7k and I haven't changed bypass filter for few years now probably has close to 12k on it now. They say bypass you don't need to change unless it's plugged or 65k or every year, but I think it's a waste of money if you only put 5k on it. Now in only speaking for bypass, I change service filter every time I do oil. 

Same for my fuel filters they been on for few years now and psi is steady, never got any water out of them so I'm leaving them for now.