24V fuel filter fittings help

[Cowboy Doc]

Hello-  Newbie poster here, be gentle with me.  Bought a 2002 6 speed for towing a month ago, 114K original, one owner, super clean, 100% stock.  Had sat for 4+ yrs after gentleman died; I bought it from his widow,  Carter block mounted LP died on way home from SLC.  Local diesel shop installed newer version of Carter, but I am leery of it.  So, am installing 95 gph FASS myself, with G&R dual sump.  I have followed the threads here and Cummins forum, and would be OK with keeping stock fuel filter (and deleting the Carter) but don't know which fittings to use to adapt the 1/2 inch FASS supply line through it.  Truck is at home (not in front of me to look at), I am in AK at work, and trying to plan and order fittings from here; will be home in a week to dive into the job.  Can anyone tell me what the line fittings are on a stock 2002 fuel filter?  Are they banjo and barbs?  NPT?  AN/ JIC?  I am just trying to save myself a week + shipping time and cost by ordering the fittings now.  Also, has anyone ever seen a 12mm banjo x 1/2 inch fast lock barb for sale, anywhere? (In case I wanted to increase my return line to 1/2 inch).  Appreciate you all.

[015point9]

Can't help you with fittings for OEM stuff but I used jic fittings on my air dog. Save your carter for a backup.

Reason...I have carter as back up pump under back seat.  Takes me 20 min to change out airdog, and put my carter pump in.  turn shut off valves,  unthread airdog, put carter pump in, plug in wire, turn ball valves on.  

My fuel line goes from pump directly to vp44 with quick connent fittings.  No banjo and jic fittings at pump only.   Dont know if fass has same elec connection as airdog, but wouldn't be had to make one that hooks up to fass and carter pump, I'm assuming.  

Got almost all fittings sister store down here.  Alaska Rubber has place in Anchorage.  But they dont have quick connect fittings but all brass mic they had, at least in Seattle store.  And they are proud of there prices, probably more so up north. But it's a 1 stop shop.

Edited August 23, 2018 by 015point9
Add info

[Cowboy Doc]

Thanks 015.9-  I have no reason to throw out the Carter, and that's a good idea to keep it for emergencies.  

[Royal Squire]

If you contact Vulcan Performance, an advertiser on this site, they can fix you up with whatever you need if you explain your intentions 

[015point9]

4 minutes ago, Cowboy Doc said:

Thanks 015.9-  I have no reason to throw out the Carter, and that's a good idea to keep it for emergencies.  

I added to original post, might be handy.  And Vulcan is great to deal with also.  If you want a pic of carter set up let me know.

Edited August 23, 2018 by 015point9
Add info

[Dieselfuture]

Welcome, you have a journey ahead of you, but when all said and done you'll have a very nice truck. 

I would not put a sump in, I would modify fuel basket or buy one already modified for 1/2 inch lines. Do it all in half right off the bat and don't look back. For the price difference I would go with Fass 150 titanium or better yet mechanical that is driven by the belt off your crankshaft. You'll need gauges, fuel pressure, egt, boost are probably primary ones. If you get a tuner get Quadzilla with V2 tuning. 75hp vco injectors would work well with hx35 that you have and Quadzilla. 

Be sure to overfill your transmission with correct synchromesh fluid whatever it is you decide to use, I'm using Amsoil currently, MTF. Pennzoil synchromesh is available almost everywhere and works well too. You want to try and squeeze one extra quart in transmission after it comes out of bottom of fill hole, most people just take shifter Tower off and put it from the top. I would change fluid out asap in your transmission and for that matter in everything else, like antifreeze, power steering fluid, brake fluid etc.

Check all your wiring, especially grounds. Put new batteries in if needed do both at the same time. Check your alternator for AC noise/current, 0.03-0.05vac is ok, anything over is not good. Do a ground mod that someone will post eventually.

There is a lot more to learn It'll come with time, be patient, don't try to order everything now to save time, you'll have spare parts laying all over that way. It never ends, but the journey is well worth it.

[dripley]

Big line kit from Vulcan. It has everyghing you need.  I am not sump person either. I modified my fuel basket for the AD and it will suck the tank dry.

[trreed]

Stock fittings are all M14 x 1.5.  As posted above, Vulcan is a great place to get the fittings.  To adapt 1/2" fuel line, you would need a M14 x 1.5 to -8 AN adapter, and then a -8 AN to 1/2" pushloc fitting.  

[sooxies]

I'm not sure about FASS but if you had an Airdog all you would need is a Big Line Kit (from a place like Vulcan).  If i recall, the Airdog fitting that goes into the injection pump is the same size as the inlet for the fuel filter housing.  You would just cut your hose (shorter then normal) to the fuel filter and then run the big line kit from FF to IP as normal.  INSTALL A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE IF YOU HAVEN'T YET.  NOW IS THE TIME.

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Lik this... This is a Vulcan Big Line Kit and kept my stock fuel filter with my AirDog 150. This way I'm double filtering the fuel. I also get to keep my fuel heater for winter time. Then my WIF light still functions like designed. The Big line kit allows for my fuel pressure gauge to be hooked up.

 

Which my electric sensor is NOT on the VP44 it actually on the fender for a few different reasons. Water hammer, test location is easier, etc.

[Cowboy Doc]

Mopar1973man-  Clean set up, thanks for the pics.  Yes, already ordered the BL kit from Vulcan, and that should solve my plumbing dilemma.  Got block off plate for LP.  BL kit comes with fuel pressure test port Tee, which I will use just after the stock filter housing to manually test pressure occasionally, and to keep the Isspro honest.  That should still be maybe 30 inches pre-VP44, and so with snubber I shouldn't have to worry too much about "water hammer" during manual pressure reading, agree?  Probably will put the Isspro 0-30 gauge somewhere a foot or two before stock filter housing, via a T and snubber.  I have read a lot on the forums, so I feel (somewhat) well-versed in the theory, now just have to apply it all.  I can't identify the custom parts on the bracket you installed (bottom photo)- you say one of those is the VP44 pressure sensor?  

[sooxies]

4 hours ago, Cowboy Doc said:

Mopar1973man-  Clean set up, thanks for the pics.  Yes, already ordered the BL kit from Vulcan, and that should solve my plumbing dilemma.  Got block off plate for LP.  BL kit comes with fuel pressure test port Tee, which I will use just after the stock filter housing to manually test pressure occasionally, and to keep the Isspro honest.  That should still be maybe 30 inches pre-VP44, and so with snubber I shouldn't have to worry too much about "water hammer" during manual pressure reading, agree?  Probably will put the Isspro 0-30 gauge somewhere a foot or two before stock filter housing, via a T and snubber.  I have read a lot on the forums, so I feel (somewhat) well-versed in the theory, now just have to apply it all.  I can't identify the custom parts on the bracket you installed (bottom photo)- you say one of those is the VP44 pressure sensor?  

You want to measure your fuel pressure after your filter(s) to know what is going into your VP44.  From his pressure tee he runs a 90 degree fitting, a needle valve, and then air brake tubing up to the sensor (unsure if he uses a snubber as well; he can confirm).  I did the same thing.  I did not bleed the line completely so there is a gap of air which I thought would keep pressure off of the sensor.  Gauge read normally.  Again, the goal is to monitor fuel pressure, post fuel filtration, while not destroying the sensor in the long run.   

Edited August 24, 2018 by sooxies

[Cowboy Doc]

Sooxies- Yes, I understand that- that is what I meant by T just after the filter housing, meaning not too close to the VP due to cavitation. Which I figure will be around 30 inches pre-VP, +/-. That will be a FP port to use a manual gauge.  I was going to put the dash gauge in line somewhere along the firewall.  The dash gauge can be anywhere after the FASS but preferably in the engine compartment, right?  

To All- Lots of prompt replies and good suggestions so far- this is a great forum to belong to.  Lots of experience to be found here.

To clarify, I was going to put the sensor for the in dash gauge in line along the firewall, via a fast lock barbed T, a snubber to reduce pressure shocks, and run to a dash mount.  The T after the stock fuel filter, but well before the VP, will be a Schrader valve for a manual gauge.  

The items I didn't recognize in Mopar1973man's photo were on a bracket, mounted over by the batteries and fuse box.  Those are some type of sensor for fuel pressures?   

[015point9]

With right gauge there is a sensor built in.  Forget brand of gauge that has alarm  light built in, maybe somebody will post.

 

  Other alarms... don't fall for the 5 psi light.  5 psi is to low.  

[dripley]

@Mopar1973Man's set up is for Isspro EV II electric and not mechanical. That is the stuff you see on the inner fender. The EV II gauges have the warning light and program them for the pressure you want to alerted at. The EV I mechanical does not have that feature but is a good bit cheaper. 

 

@Cowboy Doc When I reread your post about the the placement of the tap for the pressure gauge it first said you were putting in the big line and then a couple sentences later it said your were putting the Isspro 0-30 gauge just before the filter canister. Are you installing more than one? 

 

Set mine up like this and it has run fine for 6 years. I have the valve barely cracked open. 

[dripley]

I did borrow this from Mike long ago. I need to re do it and add the brake line hose I have and turn the line different. You would be surprised how much in the way it can be at times.

[Cowboy Doc]

Dripley- Yes, I was intending to put in two.  A full time in dash electric EV2, and a manual gauge to be used occasionally to verify, from time to time, that the EV2 is accurate.  Overkill?  Just following the threads in other forums, and it seems that a common consensus is 1) don't mount your in dash gauge sensor too close to your VP, and always use a snubber, and 2) pressure readings are most useful right at the VP, and 3) a manual gauge is the thing to verify pressures while working under the hood, and keep the dash gauge honest.  So, I just thought the dash gauge sensor should be T'd in further back, which means it would have to be before the stock filter (which I am keeping).  For monitoring FP while driving, is that location sufficient?

[Mopar1973Man]

EV2 is programmable to set you warning light then you can program an accessory relay as well. Then they lighting is programmable so you can match it to you dash lighting level. The reaction speed of the gauge needle is programmable too.

 

I got the EV2 to prove I could setup a electric gauge properly without failure. Yes I've got both needle valve and snubber. The air brake line is 5 foot long give good distance for water hammer pulses. The valve is just to close the line in case of failure.

[dripley]

I would want both of them after the last filter.

[Cowboy Doc]

10 minutes ago, Cowboy Doc said:

Dripley- Yes, I was intending to put in two.  A full time in dash electric EV2, and a manual gauge to be used occasionally to verify, from time to time, that the EV2 is accurate.  Overkill?  Just following the threads in other forums, and it seems that a common consensus is 1) don't mount your in dash gauge sensor too close to your VP, and always use a snubber, and 2) pressure readings are most useful right at the VP, and 3) a manual gauge is the thing to verify pressures while working under the hood, and keep the dash gauge honest.  So, I just thought the dash gauge sensor should be T'd in further back, which means it would have to be before the stock filter (which I am keeping).  For monitoring FP while driving, is that location sufficient?

 

8 minutes ago, dripley said:

I would want both of them after the last filter.

 

I can do that.  Eric at Vulcan says the ported elbow with the Big Line kit works well at the VP, so I will use that location for the Schrader fitting test gauge.  I guess I will put in the 1/2 inch Fast Lock barbed T with 1/8 NPT for the snubber somewhere along the Big Line kit between the stock fuel filter and the VP, to supply the dash gauge.