Trouble Starting Engine - HELP

[dripley]

4 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I would think all you need to use is power from ECM, ground can come from anywhere else. All you're doing is energizing the coil in the relay, that's why it's recommended to have a protective relay, so when it denergizes it doesn't send spiked current back to ECM. 

It would be nice to find a pigtail that adapts to that ECM lift pump plug, so you don't have to chop it up.

If the circuit for the lift pump is negatively switched you would have to use that ground would you not? I am just thinking out loud here cause i dont really know for sure.

Edited December 12, 2018 by dripley

[dave110]

11 hours ago, dripley said:

20 hours ago, RAD said:

 

 once the key is let go from the start to run position, I can hear the relay clicking a few times.

 The ECM turns the pump on and off to keep the pressure down while crabking.

Just wanted to point out that the pressure regulation happens whilst 'cranking' the engine. If your relay is clicking on and off in the 'run' position I would not call that normal.

 

34 minutes ago, dripley said:

If the circuit for the lift pump is negatively switched you would have to use that ground would you not? I am just thinking out loud here cause i dont really know for sure.

Good point. Like the early models appear to switch the grid heater relays on the ground side and the later models on the hot side.

Edited December 12, 2018 by dave110

[dripley]

1 hour ago, dave110 said:

Just wanted to point out that the pressure regulation happens whilst 'cranking' the engine. If your relay is clicking on and off in the 'run' position I would not call that normal

Good catch. I miss read. It should only do that while cranking. At least i spelled cranking right this time. 

 

[Dieselfuture]

1 hour ago, dripley said:

If the circuit for the lift pump is negatively switched you would have to use that ground would you not? I am just thinking out loud here cause i dont really know for sure.

Yes, I didn't think that far when posted, I did later and forgot to edit, figured someone will correct me if I was wrong, so I was right 

[dave110]

11 minutes ago, dripley said:

Good catch. I miss read. It should only do that while cranking. At least i spelled cranking right this time. 

 

I wondered what was with the Crabking. I figured chicken man had seafood tonight.

[dripley]

22 minutes ago, dave110 said:

I wondered what was with the Crabking. I figured chicken man had seafood tonight.

[RAD]

12 hours ago, dave110 said:

Just wanted to point out that the pressure regulation happens whilst 'cranking' the engine. If your relay is clicking on and off in the 'run' position I would not call that normal

i must clarify

it never started, thats why i could hear it clicking on and off a few times in the run position,

[RAD]

I would like to thank all who have commented and guided/instructed me on what to do in order to get my truck back on the road.

 

it is out of my hands now, going to take it to a mechanic who i spoke to yesterday.

 

Thanks again!!

 

[RAD]

This is what my i tank unit looks like. Fluid in lower “basket” had to be poured out, was hoping it would have come out through the screen/filter attached to the bottom.

Is this what I need to get to replace the in tank unit? If the picture I added is not correct, could someone steer me in the right direction. I could not locate one exactly like the one I took out. The one I took out did not want to move up and down freely. 

 

@dripley

@Marcus2000monster

@Mopar1973Man

 

@dave110

[Mopar1973Man]

Strange that fuel sender looks like a 12V series. The 12V series had the steel side which was changed to full plastic sender. As for the full module the only this I could suggest is calling Vulcan Performance (Eric) and talk to him. 

[dripley]

That is one nasty sum beach there. It does appear to be an oe basket. 12v or not I dont know. I suppose you could clean it up and get it to function properly again, but I am not sure I would try. What does the inside of the fuel tank look like? It might need a good cleaning too. Are you running homemade fuel thru it? Apparently the screens are completely plugged if it is holding fuel and there appears to be a lot of clogging crud in the fuel. If the fuel want drain out it would follow the fuel cannot get in.

 

The other basket you have posted appears to be an in tank pump basket, just like the one I have, minus the pump. I removed the pump from mine many years ago while installing the AD, If it were me I would replace it as long as you have some filtration prior to your lift pump. 

 

 

Edited January 13, 2019 by dripley

[JAG1]

I'm also surprised to see that because it is the same as my old 92 CTD. The metal rotted with metal rust pieces clogging the fuel filter and even got some inside the VE injection pump.

 

At the time mine rotted enough to break away inside the tank and leave me stranded, I had to do a quick repair after getting it home. I found that a 4'' ABS straight coupling fit perfectly. Adapting it to hold the bottom and the top back together was a feat, but by 2am I was back up and running. I don't recommend doing this. It's very tough to get it the right length and adapt the screws to hold.

 

Your picture reminds me of why I cut out those screens on the bottom. Also Removing them from both my second gens by adding a filter before the lift pump on each truck.

[dripley]

I got admit I thought that was some kind of built up crud on the outside and not rust. Was not thinking metal as part of the assembly. I would definitely replace it. 

[Royal Squire]

Imagine if he had a steel fuel tank !

 

[JAG1]

22 minutes ago, dripley said:

I got admit I thought that was some kind of built up crud on the outside and not rust. Was not thinking metal as part of the assembly. I would definitely replace it. 

Don't feel bad... I can't tell whether its a girl or a guy anymore.

[RAD]

Don’t want to use the old one.

would like one like this and get a good drawstraw kit for it.

 

But I do not need a pump/unit combination .

Tank looked bad, will clean it up today and also check the fuel injector lines for crud.

[JAG1]

Look down in the bottom of the factory filter for crud, I tape a  length of small diameter flexible hose to the shop vac will let you clean  down in there.

 

Does your truck have a larger primary filter before the lift pump?

 

Looks to me somebody used a first gen module on your truck. They rot so bad and can send rust chips into the fuel system.

Edited January 14, 2019 by JAG1

[RAD]

the first time i changed the factory filter, after i bought it, had rust and crud all in it. if memory serves me correctly, it was changed a couple of time in the next month, the latest time i changed it, just a month or so ago, it was all clean.

 

No filter before lift pump, yet.

[RAD]

Luckily, there was no crap in the fuel line leading to the lift pump!!

[RAD]

after talking to doug rocco at blue chip diesel and running thier test, he recommended that i pull the IP off and sending it back to them so they can check it out.

 

was still very hard to start with 3 batteries and the hot wire test, the shot of ether helped to get it started but would only run about 10 minutes.