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Towing without gauges


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6 hours ago, AH64ID said:

 

That sounds more like a band aid for a cooling system that isn't working properly. 

 

Yes and no, with modified power the system is not up to the task, brand new. On hot days, long grades mine don't have a chance. Your system is way better than mine. Part of the problem is the rectangular radiator, not good. Cummins says it needs to be as square as  possible to keep the un-swept area at a minimum. Our radiators suck.

 

Your fan is a 26" 9 blade unit, ours is a 7 blade 22". We have a viscous fan clutch that may or may not kick on before the ECT is off the chart. You have a more positive clutch, a square radiator and a little bigger overall.

 

 

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NWMDC 5.jpg

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25 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Still in all, I've never had a temperature problem on my truck typically stay well below 215*F all the time even towing heavy. 

 

Yours is set up better than  mine then. My complete system is new, I even went to a 180 stat and a Hayden Medium Duty truck fan clutch, it mostly stays locked in. I think for it to cycle right, it needs a larger fan. That is ok, I like it locked. However, even so, there are times I still have to take it easy, which I don't like to do. I don't treat it rough but I sure make it work:)

Edited by NIsaacs
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2 minutes ago, NIsaacs said:

I even went to a 180 stat and a Hayden Medium Duty truck fan clutch, it mostly stays locked in.

 

Right now I don't even have a fan on the engine running without a fan all together. 180*F thermostat barely get to 188*F without the fan climbing 6% grade. (Not towing). Now towing I'll have the fan back in place but I barely tip 205*F most trips over a grade and the fan locks and pull back down to 193*F and unlock before I reach the top. Long enough grade in might cycle in and out several times. 

 

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The only trouble with cooling I have ever had is when the radiator was dirty and the one time I pulled my 5th wheel up the mountain with 3 of my winter fronts in when it warmed to 65 or so degrees. That was up a 6 mile 6% percent grade. I can normally pull that grade and at worst see 210* maybe 215*. I still have the oe fan clutch and it still works fine. Thats on a 190* stat and right at 23k. 

 I have just never had any cooling issues with the 02. Except in the winter. Cools off to quick off the interstate.

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If you can, go to the parts store and get a small fuse holder with a wire coming off it. It'll plug right in to the fuse panel in the drivers side of the dash. There's a spare fuse, I wanna say 16?, that's powered when key on. 

I did tap the headlight switch wiring for gauge lights though.

IMG_7805.PNG

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Posted this in September on another forum after installing all the new parts that could be changed, related to the cooling system. This is pretty typical of my truck.

 

Got a good hot test yesterday. South of Payson has a 5 mile 6-7% grade, I think it's called the Rye Creek Hill. Empty truck and trailer, 80* out, I set the cruise at 67 mph, no AC and let it pull. At the very top it reached 226*, 30psi boost and 13-1350 EGT's.

Then leaving Phoenix with a small load, on the 60 freeway, I was set at 65 mph, 103* out, AC on, it snuck up to 210*. After I left the freeway, I dropped to 5th and 58 mph all the way to Globe, stayed around 200. On the grade out of Superior up through the tunnel 6-7% grade, speed set at 50 mph, it reached 213* I think I have the system at about as good as I can get, without spending more money. The ps cooler I added, might be adding a little heat now too.

 

I am seriously considering this fan from Geno's next spring. The truck is fine this time of year.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-replacement-cooling-fan-fan9402/fan-clutch

Edited by NIsaacs
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5 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Can I use posi taps for splicing my gauge wiring? 

 

Yes. I cheated on mine. When I installed the Kenwood stereo it didn't need the dash illumination lead so I routed it to the gauges. As for power connection I tapped once and created a 4 terminal strip with...

  1. +12V Battery power protected by 20 amp fuse.
  2. +12V Keyed hot protected by a 20 amp fuse.
  3. Illumination strip
  4. Ground
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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Too much. Need to drive by pyrometer. Once you crossed the 1,100*F mark you should of geared down and kicked back up to 2k RPM and resume. I've got to ask what is the final gear ratio and the tire size?

 

 

Yes, the first leg was a test so I pushed it as hard as it would pull. I have improved the system a lot, but not enough. If I only pulled 1100* I couldn't pull the hat off your head. I ran an EZ for 12 years at 1300*, but at that time I was uninformed and happy using the oem temp gauge. After I got my CTS I found out what the temps really are. A gauge that goes from a reading of 190 then the next number is 240, how can you guestimate what the temps really are? 

 

The second half of my test is the part that bothers me, light load, 65 mph, AC on, 103* outside temps and 210 ECT is not what I call acceptable. This test was performed on level 2 about like an EZ. My gears are 3.55's tires 285's. That's not the issue at all. I can down shift, but if the hill is steep enough and the load big enough, 5th will still require wot. I don't want to have to lift, so the search is still on. A bigger fan or bigger radiator or both is next.

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20 minutes ago, NIsaacs said:

My gears are 3.55's tires 285's.

 

Actually, it does impact the final ratio to the ground. Your final would be 3.42 to the ground. Like myself with 245/75 R16 my final to the ground is 3.69. Yes, the 1 inch does impact towing abilities and EGT's...

18 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I’m having trouble finding the dimmer switch wire anyone know which wire it is? 

 

Orange wire.

 

Instrument Cluster lights wiring map 1999 Dodge Ram

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Thanks guys I got the pyro installed this morning. I found a really great install guide that I’ll see if I can make an article out of. I’m idling at 300F and I got on it real hard but not to the floor and could barely hit 1000F. I’m very pleased with the looks and operation of my isspro EV2 Pyro. I’ll post a pic of the current mounting location. This is temporary as I plan to get an a pulled mount eventually. This is an alright spot but it’s hard to watch while driving. 

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