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Extended crank to start

Marcus2000monster
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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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9 minutes ago, dripley said:

No. Just turn the switch on without starting. The IAT and ECT should be the same or within 1 or 2 degrees of each other. Once started they drift away from each other fairly quick.

 

It should just fire off at 40*. Mine does with the grids disconnected. My WTS comes on at key on but turns off right away. I probably should hook mine back up and see if they still work. When its 20 to 25 outside it still fires off pretty quick but it is a bit angry without the warm air.

So the issue is not within the grid heaters and it only starts hard when the engine is cold. I think we’re getting this narrowed down. Headed out now with the scanner.

IAT was 143 and ECT was 159. 

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pepsi71ocean

pepsi71ocean

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1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

So the issue is not within the grid heaters and it only starts hard when the engine is cold. I think we’re getting this narrowed down. Headed out now with the scanner.

IAT was 143 and ECT was 159. 

 

For hot temps that's fairly close, withing 10* Hot is normal for me. Cold they needs to be the same. Often times the IAT sensor fails within specification and you get hard starting. A good way to test is to plug the truck in and she will fire right up. The issue is more commonly seen in the CR era, where guys have these issues because the ECM will not throw a code for that.

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dripley

dripley

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1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

So the issue is not within the grid heaters and it only starts hard when the engine is cold. I think we’re getting this narrowed down. Headed out now with the scanner.

IAT was 143 and ECT was 159. 

I should have clarified that I was speaking of a cold engine, 1st start of the day, and the temps matching.

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notlimah

notlimah

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Yea man, if you’re leaving your switch in MPG setting then you’re telling the IAT sensor it’s warm out and no need to cycle grids, which is why your WTS light is going out so quick and why it’s stumbling a little bit when it’s colder out. 

 

Mine will do the same and it’s not even as cold here as you’re seeing. I’ll typically turn mine to MPG after the first start of the day and leave it like that all day, then back to off after last shut down for the night.

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dripley

dripley

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1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

Stupid grids.....

But better than glow plugs i guess 

Never had glow plugs except on rental equipment. I believe they use old railroad truck springs in the switches. You need gorilla fingers to turn and hold them in the on position to heat up.

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notlimah

notlimah

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1 hour ago, dave110 said:

Well, that's interesting stuff on the IAT fooler. Makes perfect sense but I wouldn't have thought of it. If it's not already spelled out in the instruction manual for the fooler it should be.

 

I'm not sure it's explicitly spelled out to explain what we're talking about, but it's tricking the IAT's and ECT's to thinking they're hotter/colder (as applicable) then they actually are, so it'll have change things in that sense. 

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dave110

dave110

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I understand that part. What I'm saying is there should be a simple side note saying fooler must be turned off to start in cold weather or something like that.

2 hours ago, notlimah said:

Yea man, if you’re leaving your switch in MPG setting then you’re telling the IAT sensor it’s warm out and no need to cycle grids, which is why your WTS light is going out so quick and why it’s stumbling a little bit when it’s colder out. 

 

 

Something right like what your saying here.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Exactly... The IAT will affect the pre-heat cycle but the battery temperature controls the post heat cycle after the engine is started. If you leave the MPG mode up on a cold start the grid heater will not fire. Then after it starts it will run grid heaters. Now the strange but true you can have 195°F coolant and IAT at 90°F and the grid heater will still fire post heat. Even though the IAT could be fooled to 143°F still the gird heaters will fire on post heat. This is the battery temperature sensor feeding this data. 

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dave110

dave110

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24 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

 

I guess it's back to toggle switch idea

FWIW my toggle switch has been on for over a year now with zero issues other than the 2 hidden codes I never see. I love it. Turn on, pre heat, start, turn off, save alternator. 

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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@IBMobile Ahem. 

 I now understand switch operation be done in the following sequence? Key on, start truck, switch to 6 cyl, let warm up, switch back to mpg, drive truck, shut off, switch off. This is the way our discussion has led me to believe it should be operated is this correct? Now I remember that Mike recommends switching to your desired selection before starting truck. Does this mean you should cycle grids then make your selection and then start? 

2 minutes ago, dave110 said:

FWIW my toggle switch has been on for over a year now with zero issues other than the 2 hidden codes I never see. I love it. Turn on, pre heat, start, turn off, save alternator. 

Three words. TELL US HOW! :sofa:

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