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DAP Injector Upgrade 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar


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4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've rebuilt my fuel map so I'm starting at 75% and going only up to 120% max fuel. This will allow for a bit more out the wiretap without getting stupid or smokey. Now I'm going out for a test run and see what I get from it. 

I still go to 150 but I know canbus will max out around 120. I got my tune built so I don't use wiretap. Basically if I drive nice it's all economical, but if I get pass 20 psi and hammer it I'll max out canbus but 30ish psi and it's pretty crazy by then. My truck will pull hard to about 40psi with canbus only. If i use wiretap it'll go to almost 50 but my defuel stuff kicks in by then. I'm not using waste gate, so I'm relying on defuel. I but I really don't need defuel if I'm only using canbus fuel on level 3. Wiretap is nice but I just don't need it. This thing is already angry. 

But now that you got this set up, I'm anxious to see what tunes you'll come up with. 

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Yeah I'll play with it as well I'm might end up rebuilding my tuner a couple of times trying to get the fuel map the way I like it. Right now it a clean burn from 0 PSI boost to 45 PSI. It's crazy how much power comes on when the wiretap comes on about 10 PSI. You feel the whole truck twist up and the shoot off like a rubber band. 

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6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Yeah I'll play with it as well I'm might end up rebuilding my tuner a couple of times trying to get the fuel map the way I like it. Right now it a clean burn from 0 PSI boost to 45 PSI. It's crazy how much power comes on when the wiretap comes on about 10 PSI. You feel the whole truck twist up and the shoot off like a rubber band. 

Careful you might break something! :lmao:

 

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13 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Careful you might break something! :lmao:

 

 

No, I won't. There is a reason why I went DOWN in tire size. This prevents a build-up of torque in the driveline and also the smaller tire size breaks loose easier. This prevents damage like input shaft failure. Etc. A smaller tire does not trap torque like your 285's your running will trap much more torque and cause failures. Positive note the 245's are even quicker now with the 150's. only takes me a few seconds from 55 MPH to 90 MPH now. The final gear ratio is 3.69:1 at the wheels. so no stress on my driveline.

 

Now looking at yourself. your heading the wrong direction. Yeah, you changed your 4.10 to 3.55 but with the 3.55 gears now and 285's tires your final ratio is 3.42:1 at the wheels you now starting to trap torque and add stress to your driveline. If your setup with my hardware your wouyld be more of canidate to breaking the input shaft. 

 

Just all because of an tire size... Strange but true...

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3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

No, I won't. There is a reason why I went DOWN in tire size. This prevents a build-up of torque in the driveline and also the smaller tire size breaks loose easier. This prevents damage like input shaft failure. Etc. A smaller tire does not trap torque like your 285's your running will trap much more torque and cause failures. Positive note the 245's are even quicker now with the 150's. only takes me a few seconds from 55 MPH to 90 MPH now. The final gear ratio is 3.69:1 at the wheels. so no stress on my driveline.

 

Now looking at yourself. your heading the wrong direction. Yeah, you changed your 4.10 to 3.55 but with the 3.55 gears now and 285's tires your final ratio is 3.42:1 at the wheels you now starting to trap torque and add stress to your driveline. If your setup with my hardware your wouyld be more of canidate to breaking the input shaft. 

 

Just all because of an tire size... Strange but true...

I’m getting 245s next time. I totally agree with your theory on tire sizes. 

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When your road and weather conditions are better just borrow a set of 245's for the rear axle and run it for a few days. If the ratio is too just doesn't suit you then there are the 235/85 R16 which is nearly 20 pounds lighter than 265's and just barely 1 mm taller than a 265/75 R16. Ran those for many years. 235's done very well for winter traction more penetration to the road surface than wide tire 265's.

 

Gearing you would understand really well if you rode a bicycle. Like I've got 26-inch wheels and 21 gears on my bicycle. When the gear ratio gets too low in number the amount of stress placed on you and the pedals and cranks is multiplied big time. Now increase the ratio and/or make the wheels smaller reduced the stress considerable where you cranking fairly easy but even able to climb fair grades without a ton of stress on you. After you done this and rode at least 10 miles you start to understand gearing really, really well. It about finding that balance where your power is transferred to the road without making it too easy where you crank and crank and bare go anywhere vs too much and now you're struggling to get it down the road. 

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1 hour ago, trreed said:

Nick is right. Quad + 7x0.010s will be a perfect match for an HX35 and will give you room to grow later if you want. 

 

I'm there. Already got a bit more room with the Hybrid HX35/40.

 

With the 7 x 0.010 injectors, you actually cutting back fuel more than adding it. The bottom end it cut pretty good starting at only 75% of stock fuel. I'm maxed out at 120% over stock. I'm not even using the last 30% of CANBus fuel for my daily tune. 

 

After the entire day of driving. I'm very impressed with the 7 x 0.010 injectors. My tune I'm working around to gain the most.

 

Valuable information!!!

 I can say that you can detect low pop pressure with the Quadzilla. Like my old 7 x 0.0085 idled at 5% to 7% engine load. Then the new 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar idle at 13%. There is a reason for this. As pop pressure is higher you have to command more fuel to overcome the pop pressure and get the idle to hit 800 RPM. Now with a wore out injector like my 7 x 0.0085 now those are so worn out and pop pressure is below normal range so the ECM commands way less fuel to make it idle at 800 RPM

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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