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2000 3500 no power,sucks fuel like it's free


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Actuator or boost elbow? My actuator is not adjustable but a boost elbow adjusts the pressure to actuator. May be the one you have is. And @Me78569 is dead right about the ecm seeing boost properly. 

Edited by dripley
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I've had my truck for over 12years. Ran it for a few years severely down on power thinking I was needing a pump soon, did some research talking to blue chip he even thought my pump was the cause.

Then somehow I ended up on the phone with ducky fuel injection a few phone calls later a set of 7x09 injectors were on the way.

Ohhh my the stock injectors had like a inch thick of black carbon built up on them. The fuel was spraying through thick carbon tracks. 

I knew instantly the new injectors were going to livin up it up. Ohhh  boy did they and they even payed fir themselves in much better fuel mileage.

 

If not wanting a programmer. 7x09, boost fooler and turn buckled waste gait will make plenty of power for towing.

I would recommend at least 7x09

 Stock or rv injectors seems a waste cause youl later put bigger in

 

My truck pulls grades much cooler with boost fooler and waste gate locked shut.

Fluttering at just over 20psi defueling runs much hotter up grades, 

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Mr Chicken...your correct in that I want the truck stock, some what. I just believe that it should be made to run properly before any additions. If I bought this thing new and it wouldn't pull my single car trailer, I would have parked it back at the dealer but fast. It's my 1st diesel and it took me a long time to get it. I understand that the 410 gears limits this truck. But the RPM range that it does comfortably run in, it should pull. I've been twisting wrenches and pounding dents for 40 years but never worked on a diesel until I got this truck. But I'm stubborn I'll figure it out one way or another! When I had the turbo off of the truck. We redid All the surfaces and replace the wastegate valve it works fine it also made no difference whatsoever. I think it has something to do with the map sensor? Just because something's new doesn't mean it's any good. I checked codes yesterday and it does have an overboost, code but the check engine light never comes on. The way this truck runs it must be on constant defuel. Oh and I don't recall tire size, but it's stock according to the door jamb. Could I have the wastegate actuator adjusted  wrong also?

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Without tuning / boost fooling the ecm will not allow for anything over ~22 psi.  If you are over that the ecm will defuel to try and keep boost low.

 

You cant increase boost via wastegate changes or boost elbow without doing boost fooling / tuning at the same time.

 

Please data log your sensors and figure out what the ecm is seeing.   Codes dont always trip cels.  Overboost is saying the ecm has been defueling.

 

 

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47 minutes ago, Karl said:

Could I have the wastegate actuator adjusted  wrong also?

What kind of actuator do you have? Neither of the 2 I have had are adjustable. One was the oe the other is a Banks. I am not familiar with an adjustable wasre gate. They do make boost elbows to do that with. My comp came with one. If you have adjustmet get the pressure down around 20 and see if it helps

4 minutes ago, Karl said:

How can I tell if injectors have ever been changed?  Guess you use a scanner to check  the map sensor ?

 Pull them out and see what you have. There should be a part # on the upper body of the injector. Be good to get a look at there condition too.

You will need more than basic scanner to read the sensors,  but they are not expensive. Here is a popular one. Works with your phone or computer.

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So due to the fact I'm not running a tuner or a fooler, or a boost elbow, and if I have the wastegate actuator adjusted incorrectly, would that cause it to defuel ?? Not sure how to get a data log. I'm thinking you use a scanner? Closest thing I have is the old snap on brick

I got a new wastegate actuator from thoroughbred Diesel, it's adjustable and due to the fact that I do things wrong on occasion, OK many occasion, and I have a good memory it's just really short, maybe I adjusted that wrong. But by the information I'm getting here it most likely is not the only problem

I don't see a scanner you mentioned.

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https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Diagnostics/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=asc_df_B00H9S71LW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312142020868&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14645858020923586739&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010187&hvtargid=aud-836408683912:pla-433361767800&psc=

 

Sorry forgot to attach it.

 

See if you can adjust it where you see about 20 psi and that will take out the ECM defueling.

I dont know anything about the Snap On Brick. It might read them. 

Edited by dripley
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Thanks. I will try to scan with what I have. Gonna fix it or burn it down! It needs to haul my slide in camper, (3000lbs) with my Jeep on trailer maybe another 6000 . If I get it to run the way it should I may consider changing axles. Wonder why they never used 373s? Again thanks for your help. I'll be back!

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what did you install

 

This on the turbo compressor cover?

tst01-42__38583.1419331053.400.400.gif

Or 

 

This on the exhaust housing.

 

BigHead_comp__72799.1379790209.jpg

 

 

 

we also need to clarify what you mean by "slow" 0-60 in 15-20 seconds is pretty normal for a stock 2nd gen.

 

these trucks are ANYTHING but fast.   They can pull a good load, but they do it slow.

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I would not put 3.55 in a dully personally, I would put bigger tires like I mentioned before. And if you're planning on staying stock I would not waste money on checking injectors, get a new set of rv275 and a boost fooler. If you can get 30ish psi out of it, should be good for what you're doing. Make sure to check for boost leaks with soapy water. Take intake tube off turbo, make adapter to go to compressor, pressurize to 20-25 psi and go around spraying soap. Especially you said you messed with turbo, they don't always seal very well. First picture is back side of turbo leaking air. Second picture is a fernco for a plug and I'm playing with boost elbo/actuator, later I gave up on it and plugged the hole in turbo, no more wastegate for me. I control boost with qwadzila. 5974d5664120b_2017-07-2311_52_07.jpg.070d68d52f587fd4340781ceeb8da59b.jpg5974d56cf116e_2017-07-2311_56_58.jpg.7d451c22d911c45064859a0fbfa03ce5.jpg

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I'm also for not messing with having stock injectors checked. They're a wear part replace them.

 

Aswell as locking waste gate closed. I control boost with my right foot.

I ran 7x09 injectors for a few years with no boost fooler on computer end. Added a quadzilla boost fooler recently and holy shot. Boost went from just over 20 to 35+ instantly and egts went down noticably 

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  • Owner

Remember one thing... Boost does NOT create power. Excessive boost does nothing. 

 

FUEL makes power and the boost is created keeps the EGT's in check. Yes, you need a Quadzilla (or a tuner of some sort), then the boost elbow, and a good set of injectors (if you have 100k or more miles on yours).

 

 

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Thanks. I will try to scan with what I have. Gonna fix it or burn it down! It needs to haul my slide in camper, (3000lbs) with my Jeep on trailer maybe another 6000 . If I get it to run the way it should I may consider changing axles. Wonder why they never used 373s? Again thanks for your help. Wrote this yesterday,

So if I am understanding this correctly, if I add a boost fooler,, it will stop throwing over boost code and give it  more fuel ,which will stop the over boost code from reappearing?  Again, I can't explain any better how gutless this thing is. I know it's not fast but it should pull and it barely pulls itself empty. Also I agree about not messing with injectors.  I will see if they are the orig.ones. Kinda thinking they are. And it might be past time to go ,but I have to say again this TRUCK all ways starts instantly and runs smooth. Seems if injectors were bad it would idle rough??

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My 1ton has 3.55s and I run 35" tires I cruise at 1800rpm at 70mph. I have no lack of power. 

 

Your truck sounds similar to mine when its factory I injectors were plugged up. On  the freeway I was lucky to get any kind of decent fuel mileage also lucky to get up 70 and maintain it.

 

I now have 100hp injectors boost fooler then added a tunner. Now it has gobs of power can  cruise at any speed I want on most all grades I pull. And gets alot bettet fuel mileage.  It's now a fun truck to drive power on demand when needed

 

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  • Owner
10 hours ago, Karl said:

if I add a boost fooler,, it will stop throwing over boost code and give it  more fuel ,which will stop the over boost code from reappearing?

 

Yes but you'll still suffer without a full tuner. The ECM will be retarded in timing. Cummins wrote the timing table pretty retarded to keep cylinder pressures down but MPG are rather low. Just being able to add some timing will boost the MPG's. I tip the scale at 17,000 pouns and 52 foot long with my RV and still do 13 o 14 MPG.

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