Used Pacbrake install

[gimmie11s]

Nice job looks great.  Where did you fine the used brake?  I need one badly (towing a 12k 5er) but dont feel like dropping $1500 on a new one.

[Royal Squire]

Great job. This may motivate me to get busy installing the used BD eb that I picked up a year ago on Craigslist. It is off of a Ford and will require adapting for v-band clamps. It is air operated and the air cylinder was stuck. I got it freed up and then moved on to some other project. Hopefully will be able to find all the parts since we moved to a new place since I last worked on eb. 

[Gregturley]

@Royal Squire if you need a new air cylinder they are easier and cheaper to find than vacuum cylinders. Good luck with it. I'm trying to find the solenoid valve cheaper somewhere. Got a Numatics  number off it but have hard time finding it. That same valve can be used to make a 4wd low lockout set up also.

@gimmie11s i found a used turbo on Facebook marketplace and worked out a trade. When i met the guy he said "got this too if you want it." and threw it in with the deal, nothing extra. He never mentioned it when we were talking.

[gimmie11s]

What a great score!  Very nice

[Royal Squire]

I have attached the number for an air switch that someone else here used for 2 whl low. You can find it on amazon. 
 

air switch suitable for vacuum:

MJTV-5/Clippard 

[Gregturley]

Thanks but im looking for an electrical valve

[Gregturley]

Check out my exhaust brake article. 1st article I've ever done (and redone after Mike's input). I tried to cover everything and give a few different ways to wire it up. Rebuilding an exhaust brake

 

Edited March 24, 2020 by Gregturley

[Ironforger]

Great thread! Nice to know this is do-able without dropping $$.  The PacBrake PRXB is on my wishlist but its expen$ive 

 

Question for you guys who are running an exhaust brake with a manual trans: Is that 3 second delay enough time to shift before the exhaust brake kicks on and slows down the engine revs?  I've never driven a truck with an exhaust brake, just wondering what the dynamics are for manual shifting. I would think that you wouldn't want the exhaust brake to engage while up-shifting?

 

Looking forward to that article from @Gregturley       Can you let us know once it's published @Mopar1973Man? Thanks!

 

Edit! Just noticed the article. My bad! thanks

 

Edited March 25, 2020 by Ironforger

[Dieselfuture]

4 minutes ago, Ironforger said:

Is that 3 second delay enough time to shift before the exhaust brake kicks on and slows down the engine revs? 

My BD is ether on or off with a pull knob on the shifter, no delay. If I leave it on but apps is above idle state then ex is no on, as soon as I let off throttle completely it will come on. 

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Just now, Ironforger said:

Is that 3 second delay enough time to shift before the exhaust brake kicks on and slows down the engine revs?

 

Yes, more than enough time.

 

1 minute ago, Ironforger said:

I've never driven a truck with an exhaust brake, just wondering what the dynamics are for manual shifting.

 

No difference. 

 

1 minute ago, Ironforger said:

I would think that you wouldn't want the exhaust brake to engage while up-shifting?

 

I will not engage unless you seriously lagging on throwing a gear but with the exhaust brake on it just going to hiss a bit and not impact the shift. You can tap the throttle once and reset the 3 second delay. 

 

I've got a few other tricks. I've got a toggle switch on the stick. So when I'm traveling a grade I can let the truck coast and time to elapse the 3 seconds. Then when I toggle the switch its instant on exhaust brake then. Still to this day I'm doing brake pads replacements evey 180k to 200k miles. I use the exhaust brake for 90% of all stopping power. The service brakes (pedal) is only used below 25 MPH. 

 

 

 

[Ironforger]

Cool video examples.  Were you tapping the throttle on the 4th to 3rd downshift? Thought I heard that!

 

Never been to Idaho. That goose creek grade & scenery looks awesome.

[Mopar1973Man]

Just now, Ironforger said:

Were you tapping the throttle on the 4th to 3rd downshift? Thought I heard that!

Always rev match my gears to lighten the load on syncros. 

 

1 minute ago, Ironforger said:

That goose creek grade & scenery looks awesome.

Easy peasy... Try the bigger grades like 16% grades in the back country. The 6% and 7% grades are child's play.

 

 

No riding the brake pedal in any of my videos. 90% of all stopping is done with exhaust brake. Even fully loaded with firewood, or hauling my RV trailer which GVWR is 8,500 pounds. 

 

[Ironforger]

7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

No riding the brake pedal in any of my videos. 90% of all stopping is done with exhaust brake. Even fully loaded with firewood, or hauling my RV trailer which GVWR is 8,500 pounds. 

 

Awesome! You are really using that ex brake to its true potential.  it's great to see what can be done with these engines when setup correctly.

Incredible mountain terrain. Any stories of people getting to close to the edge of the road and rolling down the side of the mountain?

[Mopar1973Man]

3 minutes ago, Ironforger said:

Any stories of people getting to close to the edge of the road and rolling down the side of the mountain?

 

Yes just last week a EMT was traveling too fast to respond to a call and wound up rolling her vehicle off a mountain road. She survive with injuries. Out here you cannot just rely on service brakes to survive 7 to 15 miles of downgrades. Most of the dirt roads could be in the 6 to 12% grades on average. There are some roads 16% and greater and most are not marked. No matter what its super nice to come down a grade without touching the brake pedal and keeping your brakes cool till you need them. Not hoping for the already hot and smoking brakes to stop you in time.

 

@JAG1 found out that without a exhaust brake it will heat the grease up in the front wheel bearing and shortly afterward the wheel bearings fail.

[JAG1]

17 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

 

@JAG1 found out that without a exhaust brake it will heat the grease up in the front wheel bearing and shortly afterward the wheel bearings fail.

Yes that road was so steep I should have creeped the truck down that mountain, but being the nights were hot in the valley I wanted up near the top at Glacier Lodge campground near the southern end of the Sierras. My trans fluid got hot and lost some of the red color, but still did better than others that lost their trans all together when going up. Going down was hair raising with a 3,000 lb camper and feel your brakes start to liquify.

Edited March 25, 2020 by JAG1

[dripley]

No shifting issues with mine. The delay was plenty. But every once in a while it would kick in but not affect anything.

[Gregturley]

I found a flaw in my wiring. I had to add a diode to my led. I cooked 2 leds from current spikes from the coil of the solenoid when turned off. I used a diode from the under hood fuse box of a late model ford. I need to make a change to my wiring diagram. I'll edit it tomorrow.

[gimmie11s]

I might have a line on a used similar brake to you @gregturley.  It looks like you used a brake for a 94-98 truck based on the turbine housing outlet.. mine is not v-band (1999 nv4500 truck),

 

Either way, if i can get my hands on one, i will be using your article to get it up and going!  Thanks a ton.

[Gregturley]

@gimmie11s that's the exhaust housing for 94-02 according to Pacbrake. If you have a turbo that has a one piece flange you have to change to C14098 Adapter, #8 in parts list in pdf L1018.pdf from Pacbrake.

 Its the same part on the older turbos so if you have one or can find one just swap it to your turbo.

[dripley]

The housigs are different from truck to truck. Mine is not a V band clamp. It bolts to the turbo. The elbow and flange that bolts to the turbo on mine is cast together. Not sure how Dodge decided what truck got which style.

Edited March 27, 2020 by dripley