Coil size

[CAMG3X]

My front shocks are worn out and I plan on replacing them with fox 2.0s and was thinking of coupling them with either thuren 2"or 3" coils. Not looking for any crazy lift, just a little more travel. My front end sits 3" lower than the rear and the thuren coils spec to 2.75" vs 3.75". Anyone have experience with those coils with a ranch hand brush guard on the front? 

Figuring it will take it down an inch

Much appreciated

[Dieselfuture]

I have plow Springs in front for my 200lb bumper. I personally don't care for the lift on this truck as its not a toy. I also like to be able put 5k in the back and still see the road at night. I suppose if you don't haul much 2" up front is OK, or you can add air bags in back to keep it level when loaded. All personal preference. Springs you mention are popular and should work fine, idle do that before a block. 

 

no lift here and I do have air bags in back.

[CAMG3X]

Looks like that set up works darn well! 

I generally haul decent sized loads of firewood, might look into an air bag setup. Do bags help the ride in the rear? I'd like to do leafs, but worried about losing capacity. 

Right now my stock front end bottoms out fairly easily. Mainly looking to get some better travel and ride quality. Guessing the front end will still be around an inch lower than the front with the thuren 2's

[Royal Squire]

@Dieselfuture what would your truck look like with that load without air bags

[Dieselfuture]

7 hours ago, CAMG3X said:

Do bags help the ride in the rear?

Depends how you set it up, if you need extra support yhea, if you want a cushy ride now, unless you do more work on suspension. I only put air in them if I get over 3k or something. Factory leafs do fine by them self, I keep minimum air like 4psi or something in bags just to keep them inflated. 

 

3 hours ago, Royal Squire said:

@Dieselfuture what would your truck look like with that load without air bags

Never put that much in without using bags, but guessing I'll be flexing overloads and truck would definitely be level if not pointing up a little. That's why I don't want a lift in front. Not only that but geometry of these front ends weren't the greatest to begin with and I don't want to wear things out prematurely as I'm the one always fixing it.

[dripley]

3 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

 

Never put that much in without using bags, but guessing I'll be flexing overloads and truck would definitely be level if not pointing up a little. That's why I don't want a lift in front. Not only that but geometry of these front ends weren't the greatest to begin with and I don't want to wear things out prematurely as I'm the one always fixing it.

I always liked that picture, its amazing the weight you have sitting behind the wheels. I have had 5k in my bed but it was brick and i got the load over the axle and forward. You could not really tell it was in there from just looking. Drove pretty normal and it really smoothed out the ride.

[CAMG3X]

Ya, think I'll stick with stock leafs for right now. Does pretty well with a hefty load in the back, amazing how much the ride improves with weight. Will do bags if I start towing more. 

My track bar is due for a change so will go with a 3rd Gen conversion set up, coupled with some 1/2" longer control arms. Think the geometry will be fine with that? 

Hoping 2-2.5" won't alter much

[Evan]

I'd suggest not doing a 3ed gen set up.

Youl tune bumpsteer into the steering. 

 

I run 2" coil spacer in my front with no complaints. My truck works to.

 

I'm a recent believer in fox shocks.

 

Do your research on the truck bar set up.i could be wrong.

 

Track bar and drag link must be at the same angle. The bracket to convert framecside to bushing will lower it putting it at less angle than the drag link creating bump steer.

Research.

[CAMG3X]

What track bar set up would you recommend? 

From what I've read I'll need to do something to prevent the axle from being pulled to one side with the lift

[Evan]

I have no idea.

A factory style but adjustable. 

 

Dodge offroad I think makes one. 

Carly stuff cost to much.

 

At 2" you can get by with a stock length to. 

 

https://store.dodgeoffroad.com/2nd-Gen-Trucks-1994-2002_c_47.html

 

The dodge offroad bracket might retain the factory track bar angle. I'm just looking at photos of it with nothing to confirm that. It also moves the bar forward wich means it can locate the bar beside the factor track bar tie rod mount beside it instead of under it. Wich could retain the angle. Still no confirmation on this.

Edited June 6, 2020 by Evan

[JAG1]

I had the 2 inch lift kit. Had to get the adjustable track bar to recenter the differential. It was too high and changed the dynamics. I did not like it but already had the air bags on so I went to a 1 inch rubber spacer. It's steering a lot better now and like it a lot. 

[Evan]

Dynamic/geometry will be off but is livable 

[Mopar1973Man]

Best to do adjustable track bar. Get the geometry right because a little bit off does effect drag and tire wear (enhances).

 

The other thing is 2 inch leveling kit tend to make the truck squat more with any trailer hitched or load in the bed. I see this really common and look horrid. If I want my truck levelled just hitch up the 31 foor Jayco or my wood trailer and she will sit dead level. Now if I had a 2 inch leveling kit it would be squatting like a broke back Ford's we have those out here too.

 

Just stock height, stock 245's tires, no lift and just 8,100 pounds of trailer behind. No air bags either. 

[Evan]

Mine might squat alittle less with 1ton springs.

 

I think the nose 5" lower looks horrid.

[dripley]

9 hours ago, Evan said:

Mine might squat alittle less with 1ton springs.

 

I think the nose 5" lower looks horrid.

The one tons have 5" of rake? My 3/4 came with about 3". I have always like the rake on it.

[CAMG3X]

Ya mine is about 3" of rake, especially with the ranch guard on. I mainly would like to get a little more travel and ride quality out of the front. May look into the Carli progressive leafs for the rear down the road, but not wanting to sacrifice load capacity. 

[CAMG3X]

I've put in an order for the parts :
Thuren 2" soft coils, 4 Thuren fox 2.0 IFP's, metalcloak control arms, Maxx extended sway bar links, and SSI adjustable track bar and bracket.

What would be the best order of operations for this install?
Was thinking of taking out the track bar and sway bar first to relieve the axle. Then tackle the control arms with the frame jacked up followed by coils and shocks. What are your thoughts?
Will probably run to the dealership to get control arm and cam hardware in case I need to cut the bolts, heard it can be a pain

Thanks! 

[Haggar]

Cam,

 

Order of replacement sounds correct.

 

Before you start, MAKE SURE that the control arms have the correct bushings in them.  My 2001 used 16mm bolts on the lower control arms and 14mm  on the upper control arms.  My guess is somewhere in 2000/2001 they upgraded the lower control arm bolts.   A  LOT of the replacement lower control arms only have 14mm bushing in them.... (that probably covers more of the total vehicles.) 

 

Just check your existing bolts on your truck with some dial calipers.  make sure all your fasteners and bushings etc match.

 

Good Luck!

 

Hag

[CAMG3X]

Good call! The set from metalcloak is designed for years 2000-2002, but I'll double check when they come in. Would hate to get into it and have my DD down for a week waiting for parts

[Evan]

5" rake is what I measured on my 1ton. I've still got some rake but less than I thought.  Raising the front kind lowers the rear. So glad I didnt go 3"

 

Did you get your stuff installed. 

I think your going toove the shocks. They're a game changer