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Injector Brand Choice


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Hey all, if any of you saw my fuel in oil post, I'm planning to upgrade my injectors a tad bit. Planning to go with 150s from 125s and then I'll be done adding power to the truck unless I come across a lot of money lol. I'm debating on going "cheap" and getting 7x010 VCO from DAP. If I got this route, should I just do the remans or do I get the new Bosch bodies? What's the biggest difference in these injectors when it comes to brand? They all seem to be Bosch injectors with bigger holes... So I wonder why buy one that is more expensive? Other brand I'm looking at is Infinite, 1BadVP44 sells them and TJ seems to love their injectors. There's a chance my injectors are fine and my seals happened to fail in only exactly a year's time... Just don't want to send them off for testing for a couple hundred when I can just get new ones and a bit higher HP. Open to all thoughts on this and if more info is needed, let me know!

 

Thank you!

Dylan

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either route has it's perks.  if you want to pony up for Infinite injectors then you wont be disappointed as they are the best 24v injector you can get, but for the vast number of guys DAP sells an injector that works for what they need.   

 

I can't speak to the difference in parts, but I don't believe either make it "screwing" anyone.   

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DAP you can go with new or used bodies. I've done both with good out come. Then I prefer the VCO nozzle over a SAC nozzle. Then I prefer higher than normal pop pressure over lower than stock that most do.At least my 7 x 0.010 injectors at 320 bar have broke my old MPG record at 28.04 MPG. As for DAP injectors they do perform really good. Turn up the wire tap and you'll have problems holding the tires down.

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Yep, I just installed 50hp injectors from DAP and a rebuilt and balanced driveshaft a few hours ago. As soon as the air cleared the system I was like wow, thats a awesome sounding eng. I didnt know what balanced injectors really sounded like. I mean Ive installed half a dozen sets of injectors in my old truck and never got that wow factor. The eng idles so smooth I just like listening to it. Hats off to DAP on that one. And you to Michael for giving me the shove through the door on DAP

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4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Hmmmm.... Some one is following my lead eh? :whistle2::thumbup2:

Hey, I'm trying to improve my MPG with my 35s and 3.55 any bit I can!! :rolleyes::whistle:

2 hours ago, jlwelding said:

Yep, I just installed 50hp injectors from DAP and a rebuilt and balanced driveshaft a few hours ago. As soon as the air cleared the system I was like wow, thats a awesome sounding eng. I didnt know what balanced injectors really sounded like. I mean Ive installed half a dozen sets of injectors in my old truck and never got that wow factor. The eng idles so smooth I just like listening to it. Hats off to DAP on that one. And you to Michael for giving me the shove through the door on DAP

What did you use to torque your lines down? Like what type of socket or attachment? Or did you just go by feel?

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51 minutes ago, YeaImDylan said:

Hey, I'm trying to improve my MPG with my 35s and 3.55 any bit I can!! :rolleyes::whistle:

Keep in mind any tires for the 3.55 gear have to be smaller that 265/75 R16 to perform well for economy or power performance. Cummins ISB engine are best suited for 3.55 to 3.73 final gearing to the ground. So there is no amount of tuning that will make your combo work good. Now with my setup with 245's tires and 3.55 gear will a 3.69 final ratio I'm cruising 66 MPH at exactly 2,000 RPM. Way good for towing heavy trailers I'm in the middle of the torque curve and always cooler EGT's wise. My normal 65 MPH empty EGT is 550*F typically at about 1 to 2 PSI of boost on my economy tune.

 

I'm going to inform you that your final ratio is going to be too low and the EGT's will be high. 3.21 final ratio is not going to perform at all for you. 

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Now compare to what I'm setup as... 3.69 to 1 final ratio is going to get the 28 MPG but your 3.21 is going to be low RPM and hot being the RPM will be too low for optimal running. 

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Now if you had the gears in the axle swapped to 4.10 then you would almost have 3.73 gears it would be 3.71 for a final ratio. Like Thor (2006 Dodge) is also a 3.73 geared truck and slightly higher at 2,200 (or so) at 65 MPH. Also keep in mind the bigger tires have more rotational mass and take even more energy (fuel) to spin them up to road speed. This is why a small tire will always win here being its lower in rotational mass, better final ratios, lower rolling resistance...Which bigger tires have higher rotational mass, crappy final ratio, higher rolling resistance.

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Edited by Mopar1973Man
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Surprisingly when cruising my EGT's aren't that high. They will rise quick but I sit at about 600-700, can't remember if that's in 5th or 6th though and I'm doing about 60MPH. Once the truck is back up and running I'll figure out what my EGT's are when cruising. Hard to tell what my actual mph is due to my speedo being off and dodge told me they can't change it at all :rolleyes: I just know it reads faster than stock. I'd love to get more mpg but not sure I can do the smaller tire look hahaha. I may in the future swap to 4.10s but I believe that costs quite a bit!

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Use a speedometer app. I've got one on my cellphone for customers trucks with big tires being I don't speeding tickets driving a customers truck for test drives. 

4 minutes ago, YeaImDylan said:

Hard to tell what my actual mph is due to my speedo being off and dodge told me they can't change it at all :rolleyes:

Dodge Dealers are rather under educated at times when I've got to teach them how to run the DRBIII tool and flash high idle to ON. Most are clueless and don't know or don't care to do the job. 

 

5 minutes ago, YeaImDylan said:

I'd love to get more mpg but not sure I can do the smaller tire look hahaha. I may in the future swap to 4.10s but I believe that costs quite a bit!

About $4,000 the last gent I told to swap out (McCall ID)and he was running 37's on 3.55 gears. His final with 3.55 gears was 3.07 final. Then after the 4.10 swap it was 3.51 final.

 

 

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 When I first bought my truck the abs light was on due to the fact that someone had changed the axle ratio and tire size in the ecm. A buddy has a good snap on scanner and was able to change both parameters to what was actually on the truck. Abs light has been off ever since.

 Moral of the story, if someone has a good scan tool that is able to make changes they could possibly set the speedo right for you.

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2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Same I do my lines by feel. You can loosen till it misses and tighten again. I usually add a bit more to ensure seal.

I just get worried I'll over tighten it and I hear these lines are very easy to score and mess up... I have a set of lines I can get for 150 off a truck if mine are damaged from the last time I took them off.. I have a possible leak at the injector nut nearest to the block on the VP. Told the shop to tighten everything up but I still see it leaking I believe and you can't get in there with a regular snubby wrench. No rough idle or anything though.

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21 minutes ago, YeaImDylan said:

Told the shop to tighten everything up but I still see it leaking I believe and you can't get in there with a regular snubby wrench. No rough idle or anything though

When doing injection lines 3, 5, and 6 should be tighten first without the 1, 2, and 4 even installed there is plenty of room. Since your leaking at that 3, 5, and 6 lines I would pull them and closely inspect them again. All it takes is a rust pit or crush mark to weep. 

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