Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

idea for faster warm ups.....


Recommended Posts

Several years ago, wifee's sister was warming up her Chevy pickup in our driveway. Stick shift, running in neutral with E brake on. I guess that was ok at her house in Maine. At the time, Sheila was a DEM caretaker, house leased from them. Next thing we know, said Chevy has rolled back across the gravel road & down an embankment into the woods. Headlights were now pointed into sky. I don't recall there was any damage & we towed it back outta there. Could have been much worse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

I had a simular case like Russ... I had my old 1972 Dodge powerWagon idling in the driveway and set the E Brake. Driveway got a slight slope to it... What happen is the E brake released itself and the truck down the driveway into a snow berm before it got to the fence... Dang Lucky... It was a really wore out truck...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know back when gas engines had carburators,the fast idle was set by a electric solonoid that would hold the throttle on a high idle until water temp (i think) was at a certain temp then release back to normal idle speed.I thought about mounting one on the gear(throttle) lever and activated with the flip of a toggle switch and set the idle about 1100 rpm,once warm flip the toggle and back to normal idle.:smart:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Several years ago, wifee's sister was warming up her Chevy pickup in our driveway. Stick shift, running in neutral with E brake on. I guess that was ok at her house in Maine. At the time, Sheila was a DEM caretaker, house leased from them. Next thing we know, said Chevy has rolled back across the gravel road & down an embankment into the woods. Headlights were now pointed into sky. I don't recall there was any damage & we towed it back outta there. Could have been much worse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It could be done with a stick (ISX) or an auto. Just find a big tree to ease up against and put it in D or 1st if you have a stick. Now you stick shifters (ISX) will have to ease out on the clutch so the truck doesnt die. Now you might be stuck from the tires digging their own graves but the cab will be nice and toasty inside while you wait for a tow truck to come pull you out.:ahhh:

hahahahaha, but the stick doesn't die if you let out of 1st gear(manual trans). there is something called anti-stall that fuels to keep it from stalling, in fact i never give it throttle while taking off from a stop. if your foot is steady enough, you could take off in 3rd without killing it(pretty rough tho). the scary thing is the truck would slide of the tree drive over the curb and thru the house/business near said tree.

--- Update to the previous post...

Maybe I'm all wet but I'm still doing as I was taught years ago. I fire up, watch oil pressure until it peaks... idle another couple of minutes for the oil to circulate & then start driving easy. I don't put a serious load on it until I'm pretty well up on the temperature guage. I guess I'd be hard pressed to document it but this was the thinking back 60-70's. Is there something new out there I can point to?

that is how i drive my truck. most of the time, i am on call. no luxuries of 5min warm up time. i have heard that a lot off fleets don't want the trucks idling. warm up or cool down. seeing as big companies only care about the bottom line, and the policies still standing, you can speculate that their maybe some truth behind the thought.

--- Update to the previous post...

Truely not safe... :nono:

I know of a few people that do this be the what if comes to be... What if the brake releases? What if the brake adjustment is not strong enough?

You should really consider the high idle flash...

would a line lock or something not be what he is referring to?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hahahahaha, but the stick doesn't die if you let out of 1st gear(manual trans). there is something called anti-stall that fuels to keep it from stalling, in fact i never give it throttle while taking off from a stop. if your foot is steady enough, you could take off in 3rd without killing it(pretty rough tho). the scary thing is the truck would slide of the tree drive over the curb and thru the house/business near said tree.

I was leaving a stop light in my 03 yesterday and accidently went from 2nd to 5th and it was a bit rough. Never blew any smoke though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You all frett the little stuff way too much. I work on diesels from huge to itty bitty and I can tell you that extended warm ups are over rated. I see diesels started in cold extermes all the time and put to work almost immediately with no ill effects on longevity or other.Just because coolant temps are not at full operating temps does not mean internal cylinder temps are not. Only takes a couple minutes to get cyl temps up and then its game on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

You all frett the little stuff way too much. I work on diesels from huge to itty bitty and I can tell you that extended warm ups are over rated. I see diesels started in cold extermes all the time and put to work almost immediately with no ill effects on longevity or other. Just because coolant temps are not at full operating temps does not mean internal cylinder temps are not. Only takes a couple minutes to get cyl temps up and then its game on.

I agree with that thought... Like I said I might warm it up just a little 80-100*F of coolant and down the highway I go. Once the temp reach 160*F (lower normal range)... It no holds barred...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah personally I am on the road before a minute passes. Might take me a 1/2 a mile to hit 55 but as much power as these things have its not like they are being worked that much more driving especially if it takes a half a mile to get up to speed. Mike said a couple threads ago that the 3 cyl high idle and exhaust brake use 6GPH which was 9.1mpg at 55mph and since we get 20mpg+ at 55, that means you use less than half the fuel, so if your gonna load the hell out of it with the exhaust brake and 3 cyl, then what difference is driving it.. Another thing is that the high idle is what, 1200RPM?.. 55 is around 1600.. I don't think 400RPM more is going to be detrimental.I do understand that the engine needs to be preheated a little bit and let the oil get around. One guy I know was telling me about some engine he saw that demonstrated how long oil takes to get to everything and he said it took a while (maybe 5 min) but that was idling and the oil pump runs off of the engine so the faster it goes the more oil it is going to push. I say if it is under 0F, let it idle for 2 minutes, if it is 0-20, 1 minute, any warmer and 30 seconds. Remember that I don't mean get in and floor it, I mean wait that long then slowly proceed up to speed. If the speed you are going to happens to be interstate speeds, add 30 seconds to the idle times. A cold engine is not going to be happy about an instant 80mph.. Generators are very interesting in how they work and I am surprised that they do work like they do because a lot of the commotion about trucks is thrown out the windows with generators. For example, a lot of generators for backup have a governor that is set at one speed, wide open (or redline I guess is a better term lol). Yes, the thing will start up floored and stop at redline, there is no idle no nothing. I don't remember the standards on how long they have to start providing power after the power goes out for backup system but it isn't long, maybe 30 seconds. That means 30 seconds to crank over and get to proper RPM for 60Hz and start making power. The smaller generators (maybe 100HP) that I saw transfering were doing it in 10 seconds flat.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Generators are very interesting in how they work and I am surprised that they do work like they do because a lot of the commotion about trucks is thrown out the windows with generators. For example, a lot of generators for backup have a governor that is set at one speed, wide open (or redline I guess is a better term lol). Yes, the thing will start up floored and stop at redline, there is no idle no nothing. I don't remember the standards on how long they have to start providing power after the power goes out for backup system but it isn't long, maybe 30 seconds. That means 30 seconds to crank over and get to proper RPM for 60Hz and start making power. The smaller generators (maybe 100HP) that I saw transfering were doing it in 10 seconds flat.

Thanks for the reference, I was going to use generators as an example also but didn't want to type that much out.:pant:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

so if your gonna load the hell out of it with the exhaust brake and 3 cyl, then what difference is driving it.. best point made... but it depends on ones reason for prewarmingi currently use an ice scraper jammed on the pedal and adjust the seat forward just to bump it up a little.. but as moparman pointed out egts actually really only go up by 50 if i set it at 1100 which i never even thought about but thats not changing really anything so i probably will just set that method aside and fix my exhaust brake... besides the neighbors would probably appreciate not to hear me messing with my scraper trying to get it adjusted right in the morning:mad:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...