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EcoRI

Mystery chip installed ... ?

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Question - does the chip matter when deciding between 100 and 150gph lift pumps? - If so, is it possible to figure out which chip/hp rating is installed? I took ownership of my truck in 2007, it belonged to my ex since 2005. He put a non-adjustable chip in the truck while we dated and shame on me for not remembering which one it was... I desparately need a new lift pump and afraid to buy the wrong one!

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The "chip" would deal with the timing & fuel at the IP (Injection Pump). The "fuel pump" or LP (Lift Pump) must have adequate volume & pressure to the IP at all times & under all conditions. As I get it, your original OEM lift pump was relocated to the frame rail. My suggestion would be a Raptor pump which does not require additional fuel line mods. You might want to consider an additional filter / water seperator... and always use upgraded filter elements.You ought to be able to physically find the "chip". Either under the hood on the driver's side or under the dash on the driver's side. Have you looked through the glove box & console in case your ex stuck the instruction sheet in with the manual.

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Well if it was mine, I would just go with the higher volume lift pump. That way if you ever go with any more mods, you will have an adequate volume supply and wouldn't have to worry!

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100 GPH is good up to 450-500 HP from what I've been told... But when you looking at prices of pumps typically the 100 and 150 are close in price. Now that leads back to the other problem. 100 GPH is a easy install and just hand tools are needed for the install... But jump to the 150 GPH normally your required to install a draw straw in the tank. So the 150 GPH pumps are more work to install but have better performance pressure wise.

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Well if it was mine, I would just go with the higher volume lift pump. That way if you ever go with any more mods, you will have an adequate volume supply and wouldn't have to worry!

Agreed ;) Also on the newer trucks sometimes the "chips" are actualy programmers loaded that significantly increase the hp but there is no physical box to find ;)
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Agreed ;)

Also on the newer trucks sometimes the "chips" are actualy programmers loaded that significantly increase the hp but there is no physical box to find ;)

Shoot! I'll look around under the hood and dash once more. If no luck then I may dig put his email add and ask. I feel kinda like a tool for not knowing what's up with my vehicle.

El Raptor-o ... I'm still torn between the two options and haven't taken the FRRP out of the box yet. Don't want to regret FRRP in a year or whatever. I welcome feedback on the following logic:

- 235 stock hp + injectors 105 and intake 24-30 = 365-370, of course + mystery-chip-programmer-doodad (under or about 100 if I recall correctly) so hp is in the ballpark of 440-470, so my hp is close to the cut off for the 100gph pump

- I rarely haul/tow since I returned to school (towed a four horse trailer on occasion years ago)

- the original Carter is still alive and kicking down on the frame, perhaps the longevity is partly due to not being hard on the truck?

- if the Carter can handle it, would the 100 gph be able to as well?

- I don't have interest to upgrade mods/add hp to the truck, rather I want to improve the supporting systems to maintain my old boy in good shape - like with the Amsoil remote bypass, extra cooling to #6, etc.

That's my rationale for the 100gph over 150gph. Maybe I'm overthinking it... ignore me if I am :cookoo:

--- Update to the previous post...

100 GPH is good up to 450-500 HP from what I've been told... But when you looking at prices of pumps typically the 100 and 150 are close in price. Now that leads back to the other problem. 100 GPH is a easy install and just hand tools are needed for the install... But jump to the 150 GPH normally your required to install a draw straw in the tank. So the 150 GPH pumps are more work to install but have better performance pressure wise.

Thank you Mike, excellent and important food for thought! I don't have the resources for the tank drop and draw straw install. and I sure don't have the cash to pay the shop to do so! :broke:

I really appreciate everyone's :2cents: so far!! It's great to have folks to bounce ideas off of and such!!

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Dont add up your power by the manufacturers hp numbers. Your 235hp truck is probably only about 200 at the wheels, injectors are usually pretty close but tuners are not from my experience. If you have a 65hp box put some 100-125 hp injectors for a nice 350+/-hp.

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if you run the tank almost empty, dropping the tank and installing a drawstraw ain't very hard to do. 2 to 4 hours tops.

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Last time I looked there was a $10 difference on the Raptor pumps. I use a 150 and no drawstraw. My fuel pressure does not go down when I WOT it. Like dripley says, the tank is not hard to remove if close to empty. Just disconnect the wires before youy drop it completely.

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Hmmm... Go out and but plenty of beer... Invite your friend over to drink beer. Discuss the fact of dropping your fuel tank. Then tell your friend to do the work while you hold the camera... :lmao::lmao2:

Posted Image

Wasn't hard at all... I drank beer and held the camera... :lmao2::lmao:

Seriously...

Yes the guys are right get the tank as empty as possible. Then disconnect the fuel line and temp a hose to a 5 gallon fuel can or bucket. Then bump the starter and let the lift pump pump the rest out. Now the tank is empty...

Filler neck hose, vent hose, sender wiring, etc... Diconnect this stuff...

As for the fuel lines leave alone for now. But unscrew the collar nut and be sure its free. This will allow the sender to come out of the tank. Now drop the tank down by pulling the 2 bands and lowering it slowly. Allow the sender to come out of the tank. Now the sender will be easy to disconnect form the fuel line and you can get your finger in there.

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that is a bout the easiest way there Mike. me i had to drink the beer, hold the camera, drink some more beer, drop the tank, drink some more beer. oops better put the tank on tomorrow:stuned:

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Hmmm... Go out and but plenty of beer... Invite your friend over to drink beer. Discuss the fact of dropping your fuel tank. Then tell your friend to do the work while you hold the camera... :lmao::lmao2:

Posted Image

Wasn't hard at all... I drank beer and held the camera... :lmao2::lmao:

that is a bout the easiest way there Mike. me i had to drink the beer, hold the camera, drink some more beer, drop the tank, drink some more beer. oops better put the tank on tomorrow:stuned:

:lmao: hahahaha! :thumb1:

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I use 2 floor jacks and 2 sections of 2"x12"..

10x easier, IMO.

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Hmmm... Go out and but plenty of beer... Invite your friend over to drink beer. Discuss the fact of dropping your fuel tank. Then tell your friend to do the work while you hold the camera... :lmao::lmao2:

Posted Image

Wasn't hard at all... I drank beer and held the camera... :lmao2::lmao:

Seriously...

Yes the guys are right get the tank as empty as possible. Then disconnect the fuel line and temp a hose to a 5 gallon fuel can or bucket. Then bump the starter and let the lift pump pump the rest out. Now the tank is empty...

Filler neck hose, vent hose, sender wiring, etc... Diconnect this stuff...

As for the fuel lines leave alone for now. But unscrew the collar nut and be sure its free. This will allow the sender to come out of the tank. Now drop the tank down by pulling the 2 bands and lowering it slowly. Allow the sender to come out of the tank. Now the sender will be easy to disconnect form the fuel line and you can get your finger in there.

Hey mike, this isnt the same guy you attacked with a molten ball joint is it?

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