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High Idle Kit Is Here


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I rather have anyone's but my own up there really. Thing is I want to show case other member and not myself. I want to see other ideas on how to install the cubby hole system.

 

Theres more than one way to skin a cat?

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Well fellas, got my high idle kit installed. It was bitter cold outside with 30mph winds during the install. Hands got chapped out in nothing flat and cut myself a few times doing it all.

 

I just got off the phone with Ed and talked to him for about a good hour. I was making some recommendations for some revising to the kit, but I think he has his ducks in a row already.

 

Initially, I was installing the faceplate and it seems as though the screwholes were not lining up. I had to do some tweaking and rotate the plate clockwise a little and kick the top right screw a little to get them all to bite. Ed, was thinking that since he encountered this before and that my vehicle was in a small accident at one time, that the dash may have been replaced/repaired, etc. Which may be an aftermarket part that does not quit meet OEM specs.

 

So, really the biggest challenge to the install was getting the harness fed through the firewall! Being that I already had a few accessories going through it, I had a challenge in front of me. What Ed told me, that I did not realize is that the grommet can be enlarged. I though the plastic retainer for it limited my ability to do so.

 

I fed a coat hanger through the hole and made a loop to grap the harness wire and pulled it through. I popped the grommet off from the firewall and negotiated the connectors through as gently as possible, but still ended up causing some damage to a wire. There is a non-sheathed wire for the IAT connectors that broke. I tried to use a torch to resolder it to fix it, but with the wind kicking hard and the torch too hot and my frustration, I ended up burning the wire apart.

 

So I did the next best thing, butt connector. I got it fixed but could not even use electrical tape! It was cold the tape adhesive would not even stick! I tried to pull a piece of tape off and it was so brittle from the cold it darn near was crumbling!

 

At the least now, I have what I spent my money on!

 

I made Ed realize that none of his workmanship is to blame for my misfortune, but he still insisted upon sending a replacement! I can appreciate that he will do that. Lets just see if I can make this one work next time around without screwing it up!

 

Ed sounds like a pretty stand up guy from just the conversation I had with him, and I think that if he accomplishes what mountains he sets out to climb, the Cummins world is going to get a whole lot more interesting! :cheers:

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I was less than pleased when I found out. And why I have this....

IMG_9948.jpg

I assume this is a mechanical gauge, otherwise it would defeat the purpose of having it. Which series is it? A lot of venders don't sell this gauge. Did it come with the tubing and fittings? I've tapped into my test port on the filter housing to install my bypass oil filter. But I bet I could tap into the inlet fitting on my bypass filter.

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I assume this is a mechanical gauge, otherwise it would defeat the purpose of having it. Which series is it? A lot of venders don't sell this gauge. Did it come with the tubing and fittings? I've tapped into my test port on the filter housing to install my bypass oil filter. But I bet I could tap into the inlet fitting on my bypass filter.

It's electrical, an ISSPRO EV2. How does that defeat the purpose of having it? I reads oils pressure, that's the purpose.

There are two fittings on my oil filter housing, but I am taking pressure from the main rifle above the ECM.

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It's electrical, an ISSPRO EV2. How does that defeat the purpose of having it? I reads oils pressure, that's the purpose.

There are two fittings on my oil filter housing, but I am taking pressure from the main rifle above the ECM.

Is it not effected by spikes or lulls in voltage like the dash gauge is?

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Is it not effected by spikes or lulls in voltage like the dash gauge is?

The dash gauge is compleaty fake, it's moved by an algorithm in the ECM and not a pressure sender. There isn't even a pressure sender on the 3rd gen engines. Any movement in the dash is based on ECM output and nothing else.

The sender is a 5v sender, the gauge itself regulates the truck voltage down to 5v and the sender then returns the voltage according to pressure. I run the same electrical senders for boost, fuel pressure, and drive pressure.

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With the rate I'm going, I'm gonna have to add the other 3-gauge pod for  the dash!

 

I told ed, by the time we are all said and done with our add-ons to these trucks, our cab is going to look like the inside of a space shuttle!

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I purchased one of these switches and hooked it all up and it did not work. I did the tests listed on the website and I have zero resistance in the engine coolant temperature end of the switch.  I would like to exchange it for a new one I really don't want to cut into this one. Please send me an email at @ ccpwood@gmail.com informing me about the steps that can be taken.

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Well...at least you got yours.

I ordered a week ago...tracking says 2 more weeks to my house. 

There will be no more of that sort of thing.

I would have paid the air mail if I had of known.

 Hope you get yours settled quick  Chase.

Regards Chris

 

 

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I purchased one of these switches and hooked it all up and it did not work. I did the tests listed on the website and I have zero resistance in the engine coolant temperature end of the switch.  I would like to exchange it for a new one I really don't want to cut into this one. Please send me an email at @ ccpwood@gmail.com informing me about the steps that can be taken.

Do you know for sure you ecm is flashed for the high idle?? I doubt both of the high idle modes would be faulty

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Well The little box showed up today...at the post office. For another  $34.90 they let me have it.

That makes it a couple dollars short of $250. I will have to say that its all Canada Posts trouble.

DAP seems to do their part on the shipping. I had it sent priorty mail. Apparently that means 2 mules not just 1.

I got it in the truck, not difficult at all if your a little guy like me. Except...

The connector for the coolant temp is not fussy about connecting.

 The control works in the off position gauges read normal.

In the MPG mode the engine picks up its sound right away and the temp gauge in the Juice goes to 149.

In the 6 cyl mode it ramps up to 1100 or so and then goes to 3cyl by itself.

Adjusting the control switch does nothing after that.

3 cyl is only stopped the normal way without the switch.

 

Don't think I did anything wrong...any ideas.

Regards Chris

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If you did your first start on 3 Cyl, you MUST shut down the truck for 60 seconds or so to reset the RAM in the ECU. Then, try the 6 CYL mode. The initial reading is stored in the RAM, so if you start in 3 CYL, drive somewhere & put it in 6 CYL, it will still revert to 3 CYL.

If it's another issue, please PM me with your phone number & I'll call you tonight. I have Canukdian calling on my phone. I have a long drive today & won't be able to check the forum till about 5=6PM MST.

 

Than you,

Ed

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