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DTT Assassin not pumping!

Ilikeoldfords
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MnTom

MnTom

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Ohhhhhh, changing the pan gasket is not a fun job. You need to lift the front of the engine to pull the pan off. Maybe he can clean the surfaces off and work the gasket in with the pan just hanging down.

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JAG1

JAG1

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I'm very sorry about having to change the pan gasket. That can be a hassel.

I don't think I would buy a DTT Assassin pump. I would not want the mounting strength problem as you mentioned and the front seal going out so early like I've been reading about. I very much appreciate all you have told us about your experiences with it. Thank you Will.

Edited by JAG1
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Ilikeoldfords

Ilikeoldfords

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I agree with you there JAG. I always had my heart set on going mechanical someday but this whole situation has kind of turned me off of the idea. When my brother got this truck I was the one that told him to go mechanical because it was still on a stock LP. After all the troubles I just don't know if it is worth it. I am sure a good quality electric pump will be just fine.

 

On that note, has anyone heard if the Fuelab pumps are all they are cracked up to be? I know they are spendy but if it works.....

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JAG1

JAG1

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Ed, do you say that because it looks like there are no ball bearings? Am I looking at it right?

The shafts just ride on bushings that need constant oiling?

And where is the front shaft seals that guys are talking about going bad and starting to leak?

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ISX

ISX

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I think theres some missed potential with the engine barring port..  I mean what they did works but the flywheel gearing would make it go a lot faster and it would be bolted in without interfering with oil pan bolts and all this other crap.  Add a little socket in the front to keep the barring ability and voila.  Maybe I should be working on a patent.  

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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I think theres some missed potential with the engine barring port..  I mean what they did works but the flywheel gearing would make it go a lot faster and it would be bolted in without interfering with oil pan bolts and all this other crap.  Add a little socket in the front to keep the barring ability and voila.  Maybe I should be working on a patent.  

The ring gear is not designed to run something full time like a pump not to mention it runs dry and would wear the gears extremely fast and be very noisy. Now a modified front covert with access to the gear train to drive off would be the cats meow.

Far as I am concerned they lost the best system by going away from a cam lobe driven pump.

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ISX

ISX

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Yeah I was thinking of how crappy the barring tool is.  Noisy and clangy.  I was thinking of a way to fix that issue.  

 

What is the rated HP on the FASS or Raptor or any of them with a say 250GPH rating?

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ISX

ISX

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Yeah the lift pump in my truck supplies like 50 so 250 always made me wonder.  I was wondering how much power was needed to drive the pumps since as far as I can tell, the DTT thing removes the electrical component...looks to be using the same type of pump as a raptor, so that tells me the motors must be failing in them.  So how much power do they need?  Could you simply get a pump and a motor, connect them with a belt, mount it in a little box next to the frame, and have common components that stores would actually have.  I think motors are a better solution than the DTT one, but why is there a DTT if the motors aren't failing..  Are the motors in these things really that crappy?

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mopartechnician

mopartechnician

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On that note, has anyone heard if the Fuelab pumps are all they are cracked up to be? I know they are spendy but if it works.....

I have one customer running one. It was a great setup the only thing is their bracket was designed for a long box pickup and to go on the inside of the rail. I had to do some modding to get it to fit on the outside of the frame

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ISX

ISX

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Why hasn't he made article #3 after 4 years of waiting...   The big explanation of why everything is why it is.  

 

I think his flow rates for testing the pump are right, I think they do flow that low.  But as far as history and 12 valves are concerned, theres no reason to say they aren't adequate.  There's thousands of million mile 12 valves out there using them on the original ppump and I'm betting they changed that lift pump out every 3 or 400k.  I wish I knew whether mine was the original or not.  

 

24V's are a different story.  They need recirculation to get everything cooled down.  Ppumps don't care, they just lose power if there isn't enough fuel.  

 

Obviously the crappy cam pumps are far more reliable than the electric pumps.  So what do you want, reliability of the pump, or reliability of the VP44...  It's a wash.  If they made a high flowing cam lobe pump then you'd have the best of both worlds.  

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rancherman

rancherman

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But the volume rates are much lower than most electric pumps.

http://www.torkteknology.com/news/5/Technical-Article-Number-One%252d-The-Cummins-Lift-Pump.html

 

I know ISX will argue this article. :ashamed:

maybe true when the electric pumps leave their  factory....  

 

Speed of the pump isn't the  cure-all.       In fact,   an electric pump  or  any pump  humping   as  fast as they sound is  ridiculous for any long term  life.   

WIDTH of the  gear  is   what is  needed for  hy capacity...  not  rpm.

Me?   I'd   figure out how to run a pump  between the vacuum pump and  power steering pump... or  even   figure out how to run  a  pto  beyond the powersteering.  

 Putting an alternator on with the  'out the back'   pto  is  nutz..  those  alternators  are turning   6000+  rpm. 

Now,  before all the  posts about  'how would you  prime'..  well,  here goes.    put a  one way hand pump with check valves  before the  gear pump.   the  hand pump would  get fuel  almost to the   gear pump...  and  the excess    would  go back to return/tank.  when  engine starts,  fuel would be  drawn through the check valves and hand pump.  

Still a lot of screwing around  isn't it...  putting lipstick on a  pig..

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