Teardown and Rebuild

[TFaoro]

1 hour ago, jlbayes said:

Stock is king. Trying to get @TFaoro to understand this too. 

If mine didn't show any signs of wear I would be content.... Being this isn't the case and I'm using it with used tappets I can only assume it'll start to wear faster. If the guys at Infinite recommend on I think they can be trusted. 

[jlbayes]

I know dis. Cams are like messing with stall speed to me. Most of the time changing it just does not work.

[AH64ID]

30 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

I know dis. Cams are like messing with stall speed to me. Most of the time changing it just does not work.

 

I know the 3rd gen stock cam is a bit more restrictive, but I have ran 3 different cams (including stock) and have had nothing but excellent results with each cam change. 

[jlbayes]

Coming from the dinosaur stuff.....they do not gain anything with the cam sub 4k rpm. I know of common rail guys getting the vp cams and installing them to ditch the in cylinder egr. I also know a few that have removed the 188/220s from cr due to increased smoke and loss of low end power.

[TFaoro]

Picked up some parts to fix the girl. 
Injectors from DAP showed up. There are 3 new nozzles. Pretty disappointed they didn't put caps over the tips though.

Baffled tappet cover with two -16 AN fittings (3/4in)

10ft of 3/4 hose and 8 ft of 1/2 hose

Stant oil cap drilled and tapped for a 1/2npt fitting. I'll run this to make sure the engine will be okay with these 3 breathers. If all is good, I'll probably pull the valve cover and have a 3/4in fitting welded in. 

Now finding time to get home and fix the friggen thing. I don't want to pull the effin pump for the 3rd time in 10 miles!!!!!!

[TFaoro]

Lots done this weekend. 

 

First, these 5 things showed up. Tappet cover, two -12 orb to -12 AN male, and two -12AN to -12 pushloc. $400 bucks there....

 

I pulled the pump and all of the other junk out of the way. The 12V tappet cover had blown out about 6 inches along the bottom. I didn't know that much oil ran down by there....

This thing is sexy. Good thing I made an ECM mount, because there isn't any way to mount it with this cover. There also isn't a mount for the fuel line at the rear of the head / pump, so I used a piece of flat strap and bolted it to one of the breather pieces and to the fuel line holder. 

 

You can kinda see the mount at the back of this picture. 

 

All buttoned up. 

 

I got it running and there's no oil leaks! Took it for a test drive, came back home and the pinion seal decided it didn't want to live anymore

The nut on the pinion was loose enough to take off with a 1/4in drive rachet -__-

Getting the yoke off was a PITA. Beat on it, pried on it with a bar, beat on it while prying on it with 2 bars and no beans. 

I eventually got it off by using a straight puller (used to pull the drums on CAT bulldozers) ran grade 8 1/4in bolts through two of the bolt holes for the u joint straps and tightening it. We'd tighten it just about as tight as we could get it, then beat on it with hammers until it came loose. It took 10x doing that for it to finally pop off. Then the seal was a bear to drive out.... $90 later for the seal got it all back together. 

So out for the next test drive - I got it to 40psi or so of boost and blew something. Come to find out I didn't tighten the back left corner intake plenum bolt and it blew the whole back of the seal out. So I decided eff it I'll drive it the way it is until my tunnel ram shows up. 

I took it on a 150mile trip (stopped by to see @Me78569 for a bit.) The wind was so bad on flat ground I was holding 25psi of boost to hold 80mph with the huge leak. I got on it hard once and let out when boost hit 65. I'm not sure if the boots will stay on or my manifold plug will stay in. 

It drives very nice!! I still have a bit of pre-boost smoke to tune out and I need to chat with Power Driven Diesel about AFC live to get it dialed in. 

Also if anyone knows how to make my truck lug down better when letting off the clutch I'd appreciate it! If rpms get blow 600 it dies every time. (idle is at 850-900) Is that just the way it is??? My dad's 12v will lug to 400ish or lower and doesn't seem to care. 

Edited April 10, 2017 by TFaoro

[TFaoro]

I've done some playing with the pump and AFC live to get the truck to run the way I want it to. 

Timing bumped by 4*. In theory this would be 24*, but I'm assuming I didn't quite have it at TDC when I timed it. It spools a touch slower, but egts are down and power seems up. 

Pre boost screw backed out by 2.5 turns (started at 3 turns)

AFC live adjusted to max egts at 1200* and only lightly haze on harder acceleration. Other than right off idle, it's just as clean as the quad was. Off idle it hazes just a touch, but not bad. 

[TFaoro]

Got the manifold pulled and the hole tapped for a plug / DP gauge. 

Pulled the spacer off the secondary to put it on my 14cm housing. This one wasn't sealing from the crack. I was hoping to sell it but O well. I have a new paperweight!
 

Once I get the 14cm housing painted I'll slap it back together. 

[notlimah]

Honestly I'm surprised you were running the 12cm housing for so long!

[TFaoro]

15 hours ago, notlimah said:

Honestly I'm surprised you were running the 12cm housing for so long!

Those housings are expensive! $550 new.

I picked up the 14cm housing for $350

[notlimah]

17 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

Those housings are expensive! $550 new.

I picked up the 14cm housing for $350

 

Dont you know how easy it is for me to spend your money?! 

 

 

[TFaoro]

Got the compounds back together and the manifold on.

The beautiful golden nugget is hidden! I did get the rest of the stainless bolts in as well. 

The 14cm housing spools nearly the same as the 12. Would it be the same in a single situation? Idk. Probably not.

I do notice the biggest difference from a stop. If I gun it from a stop. It spools noticeably slower. Not a big deal though because it's a manual.

From 1500rpm in 3rd and up the change is pretty much negligible. 

Top end is definitely better! I got on it a couple times hard and it was in the low 60s for boost but EGTs climbed much slower and topped out around 1500ish. 

Fixed the front cover from leaking. Dum dum move. 

 

Also pulled the damper and fan clutch to tighten the front cover bolts. Most of them were about finger tight. My assumption is the gasket squished down from the heat cycles. 

 

Still waiting on the tunnel ram from carl..... Boost leak is massive!!!

[TFaoro]

Got a bit to update. I've moved away from Denver (thank god)

Anyway, I got the Crazy Carl intake plenum installed. I wasn't super happy with the quality of the sealing surface, but I got it cleaned up well enough to seal 70ish psi of boost. I don't have any pics of it on yet. 

 

Then mother nature decided to rear her ugly head and hail 4 days before I moved out of Denver. $2,400 worth of damage to the truck and $8,200 worth of damage to my car. Pictures of it don't show up well, but the hood is really bad. It's being replaced, so the truck will be getting a steel cowl hood. I've got to get the car fixed first though. 

 

I did some towing with my permanently unlocked fan clutch and things got toasty, so I put the permanently locked one on. Temps easily stayed cool with it. 

 

Wheels and tires I'm still a bit undecided on buying. They're the same size tire, just a different rim. 

 

 

Now for the fun stuff. 

The truck has been running a bit rougher than normal lately, so I pulled the injectors. The 3 that didn't get new nozzles look horrible with built up carbon and plugged holes. They definitely weren't spraying right (<1,500 miles on the rebuild). The other 3 with the new nozzles looked fine. So I stuffed @trreed's old ones back in and that smoothed it out some. 

 

Now the truck has always had a touch of rough idle with the Ppump once warm, and even with Trevor's injectors it was still worse than before. There's also a ticking or tapping noise coming from the pump when it's warmed up. After lots of reading and talking to @jlbayes I cracked the injection lines one by one. Well, when #3 is cracked the tapping in the pump goes away. The tapping is also quieter with higher fuel pressure. After talking to Seth Ferrell there's either a plunger or barrel problem on #3. So the pump is shot.... Seth has a 2.5 week or longer lead time, so Tuesday I'm going to call Columbus Diesel and see how long it'll take them to get me a pump. My car is going under the knife soon for body repairs, so hopefully they have what I want on the shelf. 

@Me78569, it is cursed. 

 

[notlimah]

Jeez Tyler, talk about a rough go! Sorry to hear about all that hail damage, definitely a bummer I suppose there's not much you can do about it. 

 

Seems odd to hear about a ppump having mechanical issues like that, is this a common problem?

[CTcummins24V]

Keep the 4th gen rims

[TFaoro]

8 hours ago, notlimah said:

Seems odd to hear about a ppump having mechanical issues like that, is this a common problem?

Much more common on the 160/175 pumps. Chit happens though I guess

3 hours ago, CTcummins24V said:

Keep the 4th gen rims

I'll probably keep both sets of those I have too

[Royal Squire]

Sorry to hear about the hail damage. 

On the intake, can you machine an o-ring groove?

[TFaoro]

8 hours ago, Royal Squire said:

Sorry to hear about the hail damage. 

On the intake, can you machine an o-ring groove?

That would be nice! I no longer have access to that type of equipment though. I got it cleaned up with sand paper though, so it should be good. 

[notlimah]

Man you got two sets of 4th gen wheels?! I can't find any in my area 

[jlbayes]

9 hours ago, notlimah said:

Man you got two sets of 4th gen wheels?! I can't find any in my area 

 

I had to settle for 3rd gen wheels.