3rd Generation Dodge

So here's the issue. I have power to my 7 pin on the truck, but when I plug rv into truck, no running lights. Have brake hazards and signals. I used a test light and confirmed I have power to the 7 pin. Any ideas? Trailer wiring is good. Tested it on my 01 cummins and all lights work. Also, truck seems to be losing prime at under half a tank, lift pump or check valve? Any suggestions would be great!!

New guy here from Arkansas. Grew up on the farm and been around heavy equipment and diesel engines my whole life. I bought a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 about a year ago. It has the 2004.5 5.9 Cummins. I started noticing recently that I was getting quite a bit of white smoke from the blow by/breather tube under the truck. I bought the truck with around 130,000 miles on it and it currently has around 180,000 miles on it. I changed the crank case vent filter on it thinking that might help. While I expect the motor to have some wear and show some blow by for it being this old and for me hauling with it on a regular basis I am a little surprised at the amount of smoke. I did th…

The other day my smarty touch fell off the windshield mount to the floor of my truck after hitting a pot hole. I picked it up to plug it back in and noticed the connection on the back of the monitor had been pulled out by the android type charger connecting it the the control module. Not sure if anybody can give me any advice or tips but was wondering if MADS or Smarty does repairs? If anybody had anything to say please do because at the moment I can’t change the tune on my truck or return it to stock tuning meaning I won’t be able to possibly ever change tunes if I can’t get this smarty touch back working.

Well screen is dead just flashes the red led. Since now my truck is locked in its program and I no longer have any gauges or anyway to reprogram my truck. I need just the display.

Researching I have found several people that say they got a complete rocker assembly set for $130 to $180. The best price I have found so far is about $450 for the set... anybody know where people are getting that price? Just put 6k into my truck and would rather not fork out another 500 bucks...

Replacing injectors on a CR engine isn't much different that changing injectors on a 24V. There is a few differences but the process is the same. First you need to make sure the fuel rail area is clean. Best to take a power washer and blow all the crud and dirt off the fuel rail side of the head. Remove the intake horn and grid heater. Pack a few rags in the intake to prevent anything from falling in by chance. Now you need to remove the fuel rail and all the connecting lines to the head. It will come out in one piece with the rail and the lines attached. Be aware the overflow valve has a banjo and sealing washers on top and bottom. …

So it started when I was heading to a job in new mexico I made it all the way to abilien texas pulling my camper the truck started feeling like the tranny was slipping going down the highway. I would be driving along and the rpms would shoot up real high with now power id jave to let off the fuel and it would stop then it would just keep doing it. I took it to a tranny shop that morning they checked it out the tranny was fine but it had thrown low fuel rail pressure code. I vhanged the fuel filter and finished my trip no issue a few months later i noticed that when I get on the truck pretty hard it will do someone of the same thing where the rmps will just go through the …

No trickery with a lockup switch, only modification to the truck is 50hp S&S injectors and custom tuning on the engine and transmission with UDC Pro RT on a Smarty Touch, 2nd gear lockup engaging in Drive! No BS here on this one, true 2nd lockup in drive commanded from the ECM.

Hey guys, I wanted to give you a heads up that we have created a Part Number Lookup Tool using the new Articles Section https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/3rd-generation/part-number-lookup-tool-3rd-gen/ You can find various 3rd Gen Years and different models. The drop down menu's will point to different sections, you can also use the Bookmarks icon on the main PDF to jump through the sections!

Good morning, all, and hello old friends 2008 2500 with G56 trans. Changed to a SMF and DD clutch. After doing so, I get horrid "gear rollover" in neutral, as well as in gears. In neutral, no clutch depressed, it's quite noisy. If I slightly push the shift lever towards a gear, it immediately goes quiet. Does this at all gear positions. If I let the shifter rest, it's quite noisy again.. Anyone experienced this? I mean, I understand there'll be 'gear rollover' when going from DMFW to SMFW, as the vibration transmitted is increased a little, but this is nuts.. Thanks.

Truck jelled up during this winter. As I thought Plug it in every night and everywhere I went. Got in at one evening -5°, white smoke, miss, blow by, ran like dog. Drained tank, new fuel filter, new fuel, clean. new injectors, feed tubes, it’s all in correct, and it’s the same. I was leaning towards sensors. This truck has some major issues with electrical. Diesel world is new to me, I can wrench, just can’t seem to make money grow on trees. Need the work horse back and somewhere to start. Hope I’m in the right place.

There's a 04 3500 4x4 auto for sale over here in uk for £12995, ad says revs on it's own straight after starting and someone has confirmed engine ECU replacement, I've asked for codes but not replied as yet, if ECU does need replaced how do I do that over here, can I get a ecu from USA and give VIN ??? could I send it over there to be fixed ??? and what cost and what if anything is better on it than the 98.5 2500 4x4 or the 98 3500 4x4 gas i've already got as I see it the ride is better on my 3500 than the 2500, gas versus diesel, I'd also say (don't shoot me for this) the 3500 gas is a smoother ride overall BUT the 2500 PO was a bodger and I am …

I have a 2005 with a little over 220,000 miles. Haven't had the truck long, maybe two months but I have noticed what I believe sounds like valve train ticking. Not really noticeable at idle but going down the road I can really hear it in the cab of the truck. Sounds just like valve train ticking due to a loose rocker. Been watching some YouTube videos today and it actually has me worried that my truck is going to need a set of injectors. First thing I want to do though is go buy a feeler gauge and go through and check the valve lash on all the rocker arms. From what I've seen on YouTube seems to be really difficult to tell the difference buy sound weathere it be rocker ar…

Hello, I have an odd buzz or hum coming from what appears to be under the driver's area hood which projects through the driver's side dash. It sounds like a relatively loud high pitched cricket buzz. It started under load, but sometimes continues (more often now) during constant throttle. If I back off on the throttle, it most often stops. It seems to be increasing in frequency but sometimes does it very little. Since it happens only when driving, I can't pinpoint the issue. It is definitely not loose metal, heat shields, exhaust, etc. It seems electronic, tied to throttle response. I've searched on line with no luck. Any ideas?

Getting ready for a trip to Minnesota in June this year (1700 + mlles from home) going over I-90 /I-94. Bumper towing around 10k ( truck around 8k trailer 2k). my truck setup is a pretty stock 04, 3500. 2w, SRW, 48re, I do have a brake controller, new front brakes with drilled and slotted front rotors. No suspension bags Little nervous bout that Idaho/ Montana 6000' climb. Any advice? Do's/ don't

I realize it depends on your comfort, skill level and bank account and there are folks that do everything themselves. Shoot, If you watch "you tube" the sky is the limit (and some stuff is even accurate) I am new to the diesel world, have an 04 but, what make sense to have done vs do myself? Just curious

Hi guys/gals... Last summer (camping trip) I had an issue with a band anchor coming off and wedging itself in linkage.. this was coming up an incline and tranny made a slamming jolt from first to second. Long story short... local tranny guy reattached band/anchor. Drove home with camper and everything seemed okay. This lasted about a month... then it starting doing this double hit into second (like it didn't grab the first time).. then as tranny got warm I'd completely lose first gear. So.. when I first start out.. drives fine.. as it starts to warms (10-15 mins).. double hit first to second.. then when warm loses first gear. So.. winter came and I just parke…

I am on my second door lock on the driver side. Both times, same thing. Interior lights keep coming on and doors unlock when everything is closed. it happens randomly for no reason. System thinks the door is ajar. Since I'm on the second one, what are the odds? Anyone have this issue or know the fix? Replacement door lock was oem. Are the contacts bad?

Came up with these codes yesterday on my 04, P234 and P2509. I had no lights on the dash, I have been recently experiencing no power pulling and terrible fuel mileage,Did deeper scan read and stated waste gate. This is a 305HP and 190 on the clock. Removed intake boot and Turbo bearing seams fine no play and spins reasonably free. . I have no clue if anyone had ever changed the Turbo as I bought the truck used and vague service info. Believe it said HY 35. Is it worth going into the waste gate issue or just swap out the Turbo completely?

So in my quest to further understand the monster that is quadzilla adrenaline, I found this video online. It explains alot, so if anyone has any questions about the video, check this out too. The original quadzilla tuning video is pretty good as well. I'll provide links to both. Original Quadzilla tuning video: I'm sure the gurus on here are masters with this programmer already, but for those who aren't, or those who are wondering whether they should, here you go.