2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey Guys, So my old group 27 batteries finally took a dump. I left the radio on in my truck for about 2 hours while I was loading up scrap, and it was enough that after starting the truck the batteries were just beyond this. Anyways, I did some quick looking and decided to upgrade to the famed Group31's. And the results are nothing less then amazing. So not only did the truck start up super fast, but even with the grids banging away the battery voltage went from 14.0 to 12.8V with the grids going off, and you don't even hear the change in the engine or the whine of the alternator, unlike with my old group27's Anyways here is how you do …

Hey Guys, <<For a List of vendors who have supplied junk parts or didn't stand behind their products....see the bottom of the article.>> pepsi71ocean here. I decided to finally write this article up after another round of people with issues with reman companies. So a while ago back in 10/2015 I shorted out my PCM with a botched rebuild on my Alternator(I forgot to add a sealing washer!) As a result, after replacing the defective alternator I still had no charging on the alternator. I went hunting for a re builder for my PCM. I was quoted almost $800 for a new blank from Dodge, and that didn't include programming. A friend of mine on Facebook who …

MAP (Manifold Atmosphere Pressure) Sensor The MAP sensor is installed into the rear of the intake manifold. The MAP sensor reacts to air pressure changes in the intake manifold. It provides an input voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM). As pressure changes, MAP sensor voltage will change. The change in MAP sensor voltage results in a different input voltage to the ECM. The ECM uses this input, along with inputs from other sensors to provide fuel timing, fuel control and engine protection. Engine protection is used to derate (drop power off) the engine if turbocharger pressure becomes to high. Mopar's Notes: This cleaning procedure will not correct any error…

My OEM alternator in my 2002 Cummins Auto was producing high AC voltage occasionally during very hot days and was causing my transmission to shift improperly (see Torque Converter Lock Unlock Issues). Many of us have had this problem and have tried many different remanufactured alternators to varying degrees of success. As noted in the torque converter article, AC noise is going to come from the diodes in the rectifier failing or failed solder joints in the alternator. Heat and load is generally the cause of electrical component failure. The heat can kill the diodes themselves and also damage the solder joints on the circuit boards. Heat can come from high powe…

PCM Ground Splice Repair It's not hard and took very little time to do. NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. You need: 2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long Rosin core solder 140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch 1 roll of electrical tape Razer knife Wire cutters Wire striper Remove the air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in. No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at…

Starter Contacts Disconnect and isolate negative cables of both batteries. Raise and support vehicle. Pull back protective rubber boot from solenoid battery terminal far enough to access and remove nut securing battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet to solenoid battery terminal stud (Fig. 10). Remove nut securing battery positive cable wire harness solenoid connector eyelet to solenoid terminal stud.(17mm) Remove battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelets from solenoid terminal studs. While supporting starter motor, remove three bolts securing starter motor to flywheel housing(8 or 10mm 12 point bolts, use box …

Starter Description The starter motors used for the 5.9L diesel engine and the 8.0L gasoline engine available in this model are not interchangeable with each other, or with the starter motors used for the other available engines. The starter motor for the 5.9L diesel engine is mounted with three screws to the flywheel housing on the left side of the engine. Each of these starter motors incorporates several of the same features to create a reliable, efficient, compact, lightweight and powerful unit. The electric motors of all of these starters have four brushes contacting the motor commutator, and feature four electromagnetic field coils wound around four pole shoe…

1998 cummins 5.9 24v having problems with po113 code, cannot erase, IAT sensor reads -40 in live data. That reading dose not change if i unplug the sensor, leave it plugged in, or put a jumper in the IAT plug, it reads -40 no matter what. I am pulling 4.8v on my multimeter at the IAT plug with both test leads in connector. I put a 2.7k ohm resistor in IAT plug and i can clear the po113 code and run truck, forcing IAT to read around 114. How ever something is forcing the truck into high idle and then what i believe to be 3 cyl high idle. It dose this if i run truck without resistor in and check engine light on to. I have checked continuity on both IAT conector wires back …

Within last 3 days somebody posted about an electrail cleaner that is supposed to be really good stuff. I've searched and can't find. Anybody remember? Thanks

2001 24v 5spd 4x My truck struggled to start slightly and clunked at 2K rpms in second pretty loudly and before I could pull off it did it again 1800 rpms in 3rd this time my headunit, trailer brake controller went off and back on and my lights started doing the rave party flash. Shut the truck off, checked my battery terminals everything looked cherry started it back up no issues. About 5 mins from home my gauge lights started flickering and my volt gauge spiked to 18. I had a battery terminal that was suspect and new batteries sitting around so I tossed them in, wire brushed the connections. 2 weeks of perfect driving and today it happened again, skip in second, ha…

Okay, so as far as I can tell this fiasco started with my cab lights. What happend is I was using my power seat fuse to tap into for pwr. I had my neg terminal disconnected but sometime during the event it made contact without me knowing:doh:. While i was hiding the pwr wire under the dash it grounded and blew a few fuses. My pwr mirrors, door locks, interior light, pwr seat, and speed cntrl on wipers (low and high still work), ODB II port (cant clear codes), and high beam indicator:banghead:. The fuses it blew in the cab were:#1 15A park lamp#4 10A pwr amp#5 5A illum#12 10A IOD#13 10A pwr lock#14 10 A cluster B The fuses in the PDC was the 40A trailer (grn) fuse. So aft…

Okay awhile back maybe 20,000 miles tops I replaced my alternator and all was good.....Well except 3 random times when the truck just completely shut off beginning with the radio and everything turning off followed by the engine dieing a second later. Everytime it cranked over and started right back up no problems.Now today i lost charge... gauge went all the way down to nothing and the check gauges light came on.After driving home I shut it off and turned it back on... the voltage read around the 12v mark as I believe it should if it is just pulling off the batteries but not charging.I took the alternator off and had it tested... they claimed it was bad and though skepti…

A week ago my wait to start light would flash when i turned the key on but would not power the grid heaters. I replaced the relays and the IAT. Now the truck is throwing codes P0382 P0380 P0237 P0341 P0113. I know what the codes mean but I was hoping someone had experienced this and could help with the diagnosis. Truck is running rough intermittently, at idle it is pretty rough and when driving it is hit and miss. I started the truck about an hour later and now the check engine light isn't on but it is still running rough. All help is appreciated. Thanks.

Hey guys, I need some help troubleshooting my truck. I’m gone for weeks at a time for work so when I leave I disconnect my passenger side battery, leave the drivers side on because it’s shot anyway. When I came home from work I connected the passenger side battery and my fass started running like the key was on. I went in the truck and the gauge cluster was powered on as well. When I put the key in and turned the Ignition on, the wait to start light didn’t come on, tried to start it and crank no start. I turned the key off and the fass kept running and the cluster stayed powered up. Only way I can get the truck to start is if I disconnect the batteries, and put only the p…

02 ram 3500 4X4 manual 6 speed. I bought it in sad shape, wouldn't start. New items are batteries, battery cables, starter, alternator. At this point it would start and run, instrument cluster worked. Still no charging. I tested voltage coming from PCM, blue wire to ground=0. I had checked continuity of green and blue wires to make sure they weren't eedshorted or open. I'm assuming PCM was bad. At this same time I decided I would charge the batteries up. I removed them and charged them. Upon installing them I accidentally shorted black and red together on the passenger side with the driver's side hooked up. Then when I started the truck it ran but no bus appeared and no i…

Id like to install a battery disconnect that is easily accessible 99 3500 4x4 cummins auto. Any suggestions appreciated.

Kinda of a long story.Changed my fuel filters yesterday. I noticed when I was trying to "prime" the canister that my fuel pump wasn't running.... At all. Finally got the truck started.Prior to changing the filters yesterday, it took about 7 seconds to start the truck. You just HAD to wait that long or it WOULD NOT start. The pump would run for a second, then it would start right up. NOW it'll start immeadiatly. Even after sitting all night in the cool air it starts in about 2 seconds.Last night I installed 1 new rear view mirror (from mickey mouse to towing). Installed fine, tried to see if the power part worked. It worked for about 4 seconds then quit. Along with my radi…

I installed a Fass Fuel pump & water seperation system & in the instructions it simply says unplug the power for the stock lift pump. Well needless to say that equals codes & Fass tech support had 2 suggestions. 1. leave it uplugged & if the code bothers you some code readers will erase that code from the system. Umm no. 2. If you go to an auto parts store you can by a resistor, "I believe it's 5 ohm & plug the power line into that & it simply tricks the ECM into thinking that it is plugged in and working fine. (hmm sounds like a guess, guessing I can do on my own thx) So anybody have a better idea? I'm actually getting…

problem with my 2002. The ebrake is dragging. The left side is 135-150 and the right side is 235 and as high as 280. I am pulling my hair out over this one, I backed off the adjuster 3 times now and no temp change. I backed off the cable adjuster till I only have about 2 inches of ebrake pedal from the floor. I pushed the arms that the cable is attached to back on the hubs, helping the spring in other words. Go down the road and no change. This is insane, the brake disk on the inside is 109 but when you shoot the ebrake hub its 200 plus, the caliper is 97-109, the hub where the outer bearing is 90 degrees. I take my temp gun and shoot between the rim and the brake disk.

I ran my truck out of fuel yesterday on my way to work. I know how stupid this is but I thought I had enough to make it and I didn't have time to stop. I've tried since yesterday evening to get this thing started back but it just won't do it. I can get fuel to the VP and prime the FASS but as soon as I tighten the nut back up on the VP and try to start the truck, I lose prime with the FASS. Also, I am getting fuel at the injectors but still no fire because I lose prime to fast. I even tried leaving the but on the VP loose while I cranked and still no fire. I have been having problems that I thought might been VP related but want sure. Could it be that the VP is done for…