2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Well I yanked my RV275's back out. They started to misfire at idle again. Looking them over and the nozzle where only lightly sooty and the nozzle holes were very visible even to the naked eye. So I already talked to a shop in Lewiston, Idaho about retuning hem back to pop pressure. Like I told him I found injector with a wore shim and I'm pretty sure this injector is my problem. So I'll report back what I find out when I get them bench tested.

Sorry if this is not the place to post this but I have found a chart with the latest fuel HFRR values with the addition of bio fuel. Since most fuel stations will have between 2% and 5% biodiesel I thought this would be great info for us VP44 powered trucks. I am having difficulty posting the chart if someone can help I will get it up asap.

So i bought the gauge with the gauge kit and am getting ready to hook it up, Do i need to use the pressure gauge isolator shown in the pics? and if so what does it do? also i have a schrader valve coming off of my vp44 can i plumb the gauge in there?

1998 cummins 5.9 24v having problems with po113 code, cannot erase, IAT sensor reads -40 in live data. That reading dose not change if i unplug the sensor, leave it plugged in, or put a jumper in the IAT plug, it reads -40 no matter what. I am pulling 4.8v on my multimeter at the IAT plug with both test leads in connector. I put a 2.7k ohm resistor in IAT plug and i can clear the po113 code and run truck, forcing IAT to read around 114. How ever something is forcing the truck into high idle and then what i believe to be 3 cyl high idle. It dose this if i run truck without resistor in and check engine light on to. I have checked continuity on both IAT conector wires back …

Hello Everyone, My truck's two piece rear driveshaft was very worn after 172,000 miles (doh), so after speaking with a couple of driveline shops I selected one to build me a one-piece aluminum to replace the two piece. The shop required u joint size confirmation so after pulling the rear u joint straps, i measured the caps/width & came up with 1410 ujoints. The shop didn't seem phased that i had 1410 u joints (said could have 1350 or 1410) but surprised since I thought all D70's were 1350. I continued my investigation and after more web research concluded I may have a D80 Hybrid (like the manual trucks) based on the diff cover bolt pattern. …

2001 24v auto 47re truck seems to not want to shift into overdrive untill 55+ mph at light throttle. Wondering what other people experience with their trucks. I have 36" tires and 3.55 gears but my speedo is only 2mph fast verified with gps. It will shift most times at 57mph on the speedo and 55mph shown on my scanner reading the VSS. From what I've researched overdrive is controlled by PCM once the apps, trans temp, output speed sensor parameters have been verified and not by the adjustment of the tv cable or fluid pressure. (Could be wrong). I drove with the scanner hooked up and verified the overdrive shift happens when voltage drops to the 3-4 shift soleno…

Hello all, I am fairly new to this sight but see that there are many very knowledgeable people here. I have a 1999 2500 that I have swapped from the 47re to Nv4500 with southbend dual disc clutch, new VP, quadzilla tuner, airdog raptor 4g lift pump. Now I have a bad ECM. I am wondering if when having my new ecm programmed I should request automatic settings since my truck is originally an automatic or if I should have it programmed with the Manual trans settings? Will having the manual ECM negatively affect the original automatic PCM? Any help is greatly appreciated!

So I just recently tapped my vp for the quadzilla and my new Timbo apps threw a cel. Started surging then threw the code. Never had one do this. I suppose Tim wont warranty it once you tap vp. I just hope its not related to tap. Set it to zero on the Iquad I guess its off.

Hi folks... A mechanic not far from me has his own Chrysler DRB3 scanner that works according to him. Its for sale very cheap. Is this of any use to me with it being hooked into Chyslers own computer. Might not be a bad thing to have once in a while. Regards Chris

Hey guys/gals. I have been having this issue that comes and goes, mostly under very low throttle or idling. The RPM’s will barley move up maybe 200 rpms very briefly. My fuel pressure stays steady at 17 PSI. The below video is what I am speaking of. As you can see, and this is the first time this has happened, the check engine light came on. My dad has a scanner I can plug in to read the code, however any ideas at what might be the possible issue. Thanks. [video] I also just noticed my temp gauge surges as well and then drops to zero after watching the video.

I have had the abs light and brake light on since I bought the truck. it's 4x2 abs I changed the rear speed sensor just to try. I brought it to the dealer to get scanned and it came back with code 65 he said it was main open maybe. Said something about a rwal valve,did say that the abs computer was good.but wanted and little input from you guys

Hey, dont mean to start a new topic, but I have a question in regards to how much oil is in my 6 speed currently without draining it all. Like how much oil can you put in from the fill hole on level ground? What about bolt at top of the pto? Only asking because I had a shop( which does good work usually) drain and fill it. I would've done it myself but time is something I dont have a lot of. I bought the oil, 6 quarts redline, and when I got truck back, I had 2 quarts of oil still left. Was told it may have had left over oil still in? Sounded odd, but they said they would check it. Brought It back, and a mechanic i havent met there came in and got …

Hey guys began installing a fass TS 165 on my 01 tonight. Just wondering where I hook my wiring harness to start my lift pump. My instructions say hook green and red to battery terminals (did that) then says plug into the oem lift pump harness but my only other connector on the fass harness is a small red wire with a fuse tap. Can I solder this red wire into my oem lift pump harness or do I need to use the add a fuse? Other then hooking up this wire my install is done just waiting till daylight in the morning to finish up. Thanks

well, I've wanted a manual since day one, but the price tag on the truck I got with an auto was hard to pass up....now that my 47re is giving me grief, I'm debating a manual conversion, but I dont really want to dump a bunch of cash into a conversion with an nv4500 or 6500, the 47re can be beefed up to out preform either of the manuals for our trucks, but getting a built auto will put me at about the same price as a manual conversion.....so why not put a tougher manual in it!?!? I did a bit of lookin and can get ahold of a eaton fuller rto 6610 pretty cheap! I'll have to throw some taller gears under it so I can get some speed and fuel economy out of it, and probly have …

Found this trouble a couple of places but no for sure solutions. Mileage on truck is 87,453 and is stock all the way. No trouble in the past. Just Oil, filters, tires and battery. Bought new in late 1999. Old and retired but I like my truck and need to fix it soon so help. Replaced the lift pump and filter, checked the APPS voltages and are OK, engine starts quick and idles perfectly. Touch the accelerator pedal and rpm jumps to approx. 1400 and that is all. Foot off pedal, goes back to idle. MIL (engine light) on & all other lights work normal. Wait to start on and times out as usual. Code P1689 is all that reads. HELP PLEASE.

Think I am going to do this.Found this turbo - its a reman off a FEDEX truck.I am 99% sure its a HX35WJust wanna see if anyone knows if it will fit -> looks like it might be missing the part from the exhaust turbine back to the downpipe ???? If so - does it have a name and where can I get one - or can I used my existing one ?? :shrug:Basically will this work.

Today I happen to notice this larger puddle of oil under the truck. Looking underneath it was coming from the PS pump and dripping at a rate of a drop every 30 seconds or so. But why...? The engine had been off for a day and no one was ever in the truck at any time doing anything like trying to turn the steering wheel or touching the brakes. Thinking a hose let go, I eventually came to the conclusion that for whatever reason the PS fluid level raised up high enough to spill out the top and make a mess...with the engine off no less. Yes, the fluid level was very high. Then an hour later when I was parking the 5th wheel back in its spot I felt this weird b…

Stant or Gates Thermostat, any issues with these two brands?...'99 CTD Ive been reading the thermostat threads about some crappy thermostats and temp swing issues etc

HiBeen playing around with the airconditioning on my truck (as it blows hot air and has done ever since I got it -> but its not been warm enough for me to get on it).Figuring it was low R134a or whatever - got the walmart kit and started filling - problem was it would only allow like 10% of the can to be dumped into the low pressure port/accumulator before it was complaining of too highpressure on the guage. Well I couldn;'t hear the compressor - so after reading around I figured that was it.I climbed under and diconnected the sensor/wiring harness.I then tried to use a piece of wire to bridge the wiring harness - it smoked a little - then nothing.I got my multimeter o…

Ok, so my fuel pump started not to kick on when the key is turned on or when the engine is bumped. So I went to the troubleshooting guide on the Airdogs website. It said to put a jumper wire where the fuse goes to see if it will kick on. Well I jumped the fuse and all of a sudden the fuel pump started clicking on and off repeatedly. So I turned the key off. Replaced the fuse and it keeps doing it. Everytime I turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump kicks on and off and there is a bunch of clicking noises in the fuse box in the engine compartment. It's like I'm turning the key on and off, on and off, on and offVery confused and don't know what to do. I tried scannin…