2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

The wait to start light comes on and does it thing as usual when its above freezing. Truck starts normal and works great. If its colder than freezing, it will take a few extra seconds to light the light. It also takes longer for it to go off when its colder, I think this part is normal. Of course when its hot out the light is on and off right away. Do I have an issue with the ECM or am I just crazy (normal) No codes when scanned. I am not using it for a daily driver ...too darn cold. When the roads are nasty I will drive it cause It will get me there. Thanks Chris

I was thinking today why mess around with the junky 47rh auto trans if I could maby swap it out with an allison? I think fordcummins.com sells adapter for the cummins to mount up to an allison when you swap a psd with a cummins. I might be able to get my hands on an allison for pretty good price. Is this worth the trouble? Would I have to beef up the allison also to run BIG hp? I know my stock auto trans will not hold up to the power I am wanting to get. So I can either beef up the dodge trans or if I dont need to beef up the allison I could go with that. Any suggestion??? Just thought I would search around. Thanks

Hello everyone, Just trying to see how many monthes your getting out of your disc brake pads. I put new calipers and pads on in March of 09 and now I have to do it again! I guess when your trying to stop a 7400lb truck it goes thru them! It doesn't help that I live in an area that has a ton of hills, valleys, and curves!

What year trucks can this be done? My '99 does not do it as I remember. Been along time What exactly do you do with the key to read ECM codes and where do you read the codes at?...... (where the odometer mileage numbers are.? ) Nother quesition after I find out the above .

Just purchased a used ECM + PCM for my pickup. We travel a lot (including Mexico) and I want to keep a few critical spare parts on hand just in case. The donor rig was a perfect match (2002 Dodge Cummins HO six speed) for my truck and the price was right so I jumped on it. I'm assuming the ECM especially does not need to be re-flashed or anything and will be a plug and play item. Both computers are OEM off a totaled rig (121K miles....front end smashed but engine compartment looked fine). Guess I'm taking a little bit of a chance on this purchase but both computers looked great and the truck was running (obviously) at the time so they worked right up to the accident. …

I am looking to get a one piece drive shaft for my 01 3500 quad cab is there any shops that sell them online or will I have to get it custom made. Thanks !

My truck is a daily driver and I tow a 30' camper and various equipment on my 10k trailer several times a month. I would like to install an engine brake. Looks like Banks, Jacobs, Pacbrake, and BD are the primary options. I have also read that some turbo setups offer some braking ability. I would like to tune and setup for better low end power and towing. I would like better spooling down low also, so a different turbo may be in the works. My exhaust off the turbo looks like it necks to 3" out of the turbo housing and then up to 4", would like to make that one size if possible. So what would you all recommend? I searched this forum and others and most replies …

Would this mod be worth it... Thinking about installing a manual override switch for the fan. My temp gauge goes to about 210 on hard upgrades pulling my trailer (normal I understand) and wondering if it would make any sense to start the fan earlier (somehow) if so how would I hook that up.

Half way through replacing my valve stem seals. Let me know if anyone wants me to grab pics or wants any info.

Needed a quad cab, so I traded my old single cab for a 2000 24v auto with issues. I've read on the dead voltage gauge issue (mine has it). I've replaced the alternator, batteries, cleaned the grounds on the fender well, frame, batteries, front core support and the issue still remains. Previous owner had an alternator that was internally regulated as it only had the power wire going to it and it charged but the gauge didn't work. I replaced it with a new factory alternator and now not only does it not show voltage on the dash, it doesn't charge. Easy checks to hunt down the issue? 2nd issue, I have the tq converter lock unlock syndrome. Its constant…

This morning my truck wouldn’t shift into 4th gear without letting off the throttle, actually got worse as the truck got warmer. Then, it almost stalled at a red light, and I realized it hadn’t downshifted to 1st. Checked the trans oil (less than 3,000 miles) and it’s good and dark red, but smells burnt. Wanted to get a good list from the forum of things to check before I send it to a shop. This is 3 weeks post WT mod, which IMHO has been the single best mod I’ve done to the truck. No codes. I’m going to reset the TIMBO apps.

Well am I really surprised! No.Ok now I will tell you.I wrote email to chevron company asking their opinion on adding two cycle oil to my truck for lubrication.The response was: In our opinion never add oil to diesel fuel to lubricate your injecion pump!Use injector cleaner!What! injector cleaner in my fuel! I don't think so!Well I guess they have idiots working everywhere:banghead:

01 6 speed No power, no smoke at tail pipe New fuel filter, brand new lift pump 15 psi at idle, no check engine lights or codes

My exhaust manifold has a small crack....doubt there is any way to repair this besides replacement.Anyone have suggetions on what aftermarket manifold to buy? not sure what mods I will end up doing to this truck down the road....nothing to extreme though. Just want somthing that will help it breathe better,won't crack and won't brake the bank

Ok, so I decided to clean my MAP and IAT sensor today on the 99 24valve I just bought. There were no check engine lights, and it runs and drives good. I just figured it wouldn't hurt to clean them. This is the first time I have ever done this. I took out the MAP Sensor, it was pretty clean, but I did some work on it. Then I take out the IAT sensor, which is below the MAP at the bottom of the block??The two sensors look the same except for the electrical connections. I did some reading on other threads before I did this and everything I seen, the IAT has like a white plastic tube extruding from the sensor. The black is the MAP, and the tan was from the IAT sensor location?…

My wheel bearings are shot and I'm having trouble finding the right ones. My truck is a 99 and has front ABS, is this unusual? Th person at hub and bearing warehouse didn't know that 99's came with front ABS. Would bearings for a 2000 work?

So I pulled the alternator out to swap the rectifier, and found the alternator brush pack garbage, so I pulled the old Napa alternator out and swapped the rectifier into it. I installed the alternator into the truck and hooked the batteries up. Then I started it and checked AC voltage, got .025vac, then switched the volt meter to DC, and it read 12.25v. Puzzled I checked the idiot gauge and sure enough it wasn't charging. I then pulled the old alternator out put it back in and now the truck is still not charging. I took the charging lead off the alternator and it is .05v. I haven't checked for codes, but I will when I locate my scan gauge 2. Anyon…

All Please forgive me if this is a duplicate or stated somewhere already. I drove home about 3 hours last night and as I pulled into the driveway my check engine light came on. I had my High Idle Kit in MPG mode during the entire drive and did not notice anything out of the norm. This evening I pulled the codes and found P0113 and P1693. After work (cold engine as I didnt drive it today) I noticed with the High Idle Kit in the "OFF" position my Intake Air temp was showing -40* on my ScanGuageII (temp outside around 60*F). The truck also went into 3 cylinder mode shortly after. Would this be a bad IA sensor or something more complex? Any help is greatly …

Hey I am back, and still have same problem with truck. LOL A little refresher, the rpm drop like a rock between shifts with A/C on and no problem with it off.This is what I have done I swaped turbos with my sons truck and no change, that was a lot of work for nothing :smart Then I got a ECM from a 01 and no change. It also has new cam sensor, and new apps.My thought is VP 44 right? Whats left?

Ok...Here is my theory of the anti-gel abilities of 2 cycle oil... Let me show a example here first. Let use water and saltwater as a example. So we all know that fresh water freezes at 32*F correct. Then salt water has a much lower freezing point. (Depending on how much salt is in the water) So now if you add 1 oz of saltwater to the fresh water you going to change the freezing point of the fresh water correct??? Of course....But now if we switch water with diesel fuel and salt water with snowmobile 2 cycle oil. Diesel fuel has a pour point of around -20*F here in Idaho typically. (From the specs I'm finding on the suppling sites). Then 2 cycle oil has a pour point of ab…