2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

everyone knows the CTD is quick, but in my pursuit of quickness i have noticed that when i get to ~2600rpm there isn't a lot left.... i would thank that my fuel rate is dropping, but i have an airdog 150.my truck is completly stock except for the dog and a "boost elbow". i have a 1999 2wd 2500 5speed.is it just me or is this normal for the cummins?thx for the helpbryan

My right front axle seal is leaking and I'm wondering how to change it. I have the CAD apart and I can see myself getting the old one popped out but driving a new one in looks a little difficult. Does Dodge have a special tool to do this?

I am about to put in my 4th computer, the first was used and installed a few years ago, the 2nd was new from cummins, Aug 08. 3rd new from cummins Feb 09, and now it's time to install another. Cummins won't warrantee them because they don't show any codes??? I am running a hypertech reprogrammer, usually set to stage 3. When it runs it runs great but i cannot find anyone who can tell me why it keeps trashing the computer. Has anyone else had this problem or am i the only one?

3 Questions: 1. I looked at the Pricol Optix 2" Fuel Pressure Gauge (Elec) 0.30 PSI (BLK) on Geno's Website. Is this what I need to safely monitor my fuel pressure? 2. Is there a less expensive gauge that would serve the purpose? 3. I have a test gauge that came with the installation of my Banks P/P. Where do I find the fitting to connect it to check my pressure? ThanksOld Fart Non-MotorHead

Walmart has a Fram oil filter that says it is for synthetic oil and you change it at 10,000 miles. Anybody ever use it? That seems like a long time between oil changes to me. I bought it but I plan to change at 7000 miles. What say you?

Fuel Pressure Specification For Bosch VP44 Injection Pumps Here is a copy of the fuel system specifications from the Dodge Factory Service Manual. This is for your Dodge Cummins Turbo diesel truck with a Bosch VP44 injection pump. Fuel pressure Normal fuel pressure should float about 14-15 PSI running down the pavement. It should never fall below 10 PSI at all. Here is a colorize fuel pressure gauge to give you a clue of the fuel pressure span you want. You want the needle to stay in the green at all times. Yellow zone is a warning that you should check the fuel filter, lift pump performance, overflow valve, etc. This is undocumented maximum press…

So I replaced trans, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate and while I was there I replaced the rear main seal. I noticed it leaking very little over the pasted week then I took it for 350 mile round trip and its leaking bad now. Got new seal and going to do it again, any tricks to the trade here? I know the front seal has a sleeve to install but nothing on the rear? I thought I would grease it up this time.

So the issue I'm having is i have no power in reverse, not transmission problem power but my truck will not push my 5th wheel trailer in reverse up an incline, just black smoke. So ever since i changed to an HX35 turbo and a lower stall torque converter this has been an issue. My thinking on this problem is the lower stall converter is not allowing the engine to increase in rpm to get any boost from the turbo. So question is, will my old hy35 spool better with this setup or would a stock or higher stall converter be a better option or am i just missing something?

I've been using Shell's Rotella Triple protection 15W40 for a while now for my truck and I also use it in my tractor. So today I noticed as I was changing my tractor oil that I needed more, went to buy a 20 litre pail and they had none. They had the 9.5 litre pail and i look on the back and it says the specs listed and it includes Cummins engines. I go to a different store, same looking oil container but the back doesn't say Cummins, but it's still a Heavy Duty engine oil able to be used in Heavy equipment same as the other container says. I call Shell when I get home and they say basically it's all the same oil, they just changed the look , took the diesel writing off …

I currently have a valve body that was "Professionally" rebuilt with a TransGo SK TFOD-Diesel shift kit. I had a single disk converter at the time. I understand that the shift kit has different procedures to follow whether you have a single or triple. I think this has to do with the size of hole drilled for the lockup circuit. Is there anything else? I'm swapping in a Goerend 17SS triple disk converter, and a billet input shaft. If I leave the valve body alone, what can I expect? Am I in danger of damaging something? Is lockup going to be violent, or will it be manageable? If I need to rectify this, what am I looking at? New separator plate? Pluggi…

http://www.clearrefining.com/DW-1004-FUEL%20final.pdf

Back in December my p/s fluid would foam over and while on the brakes the truck made a whining noise. I drained and refilled the fluid until it was much clearer and I haven’t had that problem since. My hope was it either was contaminated and or burnt out. Now I’m noticing a sort of soft brake pedal, if I push long and hard enough the pedal will just about hit the floor and when released it will return to normal position. I’m wondering if my hydroboost is bad or possible vac pump issue. Any help/suggestions is much appreciated. Looks like I’ll have a couple weeks of distancing from society and hopefully get this truck resolved. Thanks again.

Sooo I gotta go help this guy because I know his daughter and ehhh. Anyhow, he went to autozone and got a new battery, wonderful kid there crossed the leads and fried the battery. Think he said they put another battery in, correctly, and it started 3 times so he drove it home. He gets home, inspects the battery and finds the negative lead loose, he puts a shim in it to get it tight and gets in and "click".Says the hood light and dome light are on, nothing else works. I am thinking he fried the other battery which they didn't replace and between it and the new battery it had enough to start 3 times and then it just lived off the alternator, but slowly died on the way h…

Help please! I’ve tried it all have no clue any more! 99 24 valve, starts fine, runs, rpm gauge not working, won’t go pass 1000-1500 rpm, guessing on that because no rpm. things I’ve done no stock lift pump has air dog new apps new crankcase sensor new cam sensor new fuel filters new(refurbish) ECM what happened Was driving and just wouldn’t go pass 1000 rpm, no tach, replace crankcase sensor, didn’t fix it, unplugged it, plugged it back in and it fixed it, worked for couple days, then same thing happened, went and got another sensor, replaced it, didn’t work, check the wires to the sensor to the ECM all good, and voltage…

Anybody got a turbo timer installed on their truck to prevent from cooking the oil at shutdown? Don't really like having to sit there for a minute or two before shutting her down....or am I the only one doing this?

I has issue with fuel pressure that I had been seen normal it would be about 20 psi but now it had dropped to 12 to 15 psi even changes fuel filter and adjust te regulation. It don't help..Should I contact the air dog company and see what to do? Or time to upgrade to airdog 100 with two filters??

O.K Guy's...after reading guesswho's thread where he posted an Oil analysis {see below} It got me concerned and i researched the places i have been buying my oil; WalMart & Advance Auto..both carry only DELO 400LE which in the analysis was rated at the bottom The DELO400 MULTIGRADE SAE (API CI-4 Plus) was what was ranked at the top along with Valvoline/Cummins preminum Blue. I have checked on the website's of Advance Auto, SAM'S Club, Autozone,CarQuest,etc.. None of the carry the DELO400 MULTIGRADE SAE (API CI-4 Plus) Has anybody else checked this out???? Richie

Okay I have a 99 Cummins auto 4x4 with 199,000 on it and I just replaced the ecm and pcm and everything worked great till yesterday when I picked it up from having the u joints and axle seals done now it doesn't like to shift into that deep drone overdrive, if I accelerate lightly after 4th gear it will jump rpms then go into overdrive. It will sometimes jump rpms in other gears depending on what certain speed I am at. So what is the issue? I have heard alternator, tps sensor or crank sensor. This issue gets worse as I drive it to where it will jump in all gears no matter what speed till I pull over and poke around then it wont do it as bad for a little bit.

So I have had a 99 Cummins for some time now and it came with a raptor fuel pump and edge programmer. It also had a switch in the cab to turn the fuel pump on. When I first got the truck the WTS light was delayed but turned on and after a few starts it started coming on like normal and I had the fuel switched from the switch to my ignition so it came on without having to flip a switch but after I went a vacation and accidentally left the key in the auxiliary position and ran the batteries dead there has been no WTS light. When we would try to jump it the light came on but after the last one it won't. Tried unplugging batteries and letting it sit then putting the cables ba…

Now that it is getting colder outside I'm preparing to change oil in my truck. I live in Illinois just East of St. Louis. Occasionally the temps will fall below 10*F which is out of the 15w-40 range according to the chart. I'm curious what some of you guys do regarding oil changes and viscosity? Do you change oil in the fall to 10w-30 and then again in the spring back to 15w-40? I know I can buy 5w-40 but all I've seen is a full synthetic. I only put about 6k on my personal truck in a year, so when I had my gasser I would change oil at the 3k mark. I've only got about 2500 miles on this truck since the last oil change. I hate to change oil unnecessarily but again…