2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I read a while ago someone used a different valve stem seal to try and make them stay on the guide better or seal better can't quite remember which and who it was. Question 1. What is the valve stem size on a 24v Question 2. What is the guide diameter where the stem seal sits The reason for the 2 questions is I'm right now repairing a Perkins (POS) 4.4 RJ build in a JCB 416 loading shovel that the tip of number 3 injector dropped off, only the very tip below the injector holes so very small and luckily it imbedded straight away into the piston and did not go through a exhaust valve. This has been ongoing for about a month…

Im new to the nv5600 so I been digging up info on how many qts should over fill. I read everything from 4.5 to 7qt. Im running 6 in it now but if any of you are running 7 Id like to hear from you. Thanks

So I know Quad and other tuners stretch the injection solenoid pulse width by some microseconds like 1500 or 1700. At what RPM? Or is that the max at any speed. This is how they get around the Vp can bus internal max fuel delivery limit. Why not in degrees instead of microseconds? Example 1500 microseconds at 1000 rpm is 1000/60 = 16.7 RPS 16.7 x 360 = 6000 degrees per second 6000/ 1000000 = .006 degrees per microsecond .006 x 1500 uS = 9 degrees @ 1000 rpm At 3000 RPM the same 1500 uS = 27 degrees. Is it explained somewhere ?

Noticed this condition a few times lately and its got me puzzled. Truck is experiencing a slight hesitation with acceleration when the truck is cold and not up to full operating temp. Almost like it’s a dead pedal for a split second at low rpms. Doesn't happen all the time and never after it’s warm. Scanned for codes and there wasn't any. Fuel pressure is good. (15-18 PSI). Low mileage truck (94K). VP44 is factory original. Wondered if it was Quad related, maybe the warm up mode feature I have enabled kicking in the power but it’s not. Any thoughts?

I posted this on the Cummins forum and thought I'd post here hoping to get some answers/ideas: So my '01 has started with no issues in the year that I've had it. Today I pulled into the paint store and upon returning to the parking lot, the truck started for about 2 seconds, 5 times in a row then nothing but the starter spinning. I could hear the fuel pump run and had 20 psi on my fuel gauge while trying to start. I called the tow company and was waiting for 30 min or so and remembered that Mike here on the forum had told me a few months ago, when I had a no start issue after installing my PacBrake unit, to toggle the lock/unlock on the key fob. I did that …

Looks like my NV4500 trans hashed itself. Looked online, saw Midwestern and SP Precision. SPP has them on sale + a lower core charge. Anyone use either of these places?Any other rebuilder recommendations?

i am looking for some one who is willing to sell me their 3 cylinder high idle switch or build me one. i am willing to pay a decent amount. i cant find anything on how to make it nor am i sure i trust myself to do so. is there anyone that can help me? i could really use this feature on my truck this winter.

So Im on my 2nd rear seal in about6k miles, keeps blowing them out. I even put a little silicone on this one and still blew out. Im thinking something is not right in trans. What do you think.

I'm talking about the line on the rear of the cylinder head. I was under there fir something else yesterday and noticed it's wet on the back of the engine and down the bell housing. A small drip was handing on the bottom of the bell housing. It was fuel. Could see the light green color. I took my phone and tried to get a pic behind the head (it's tight back there) and it looks wet. Can't tell if it's just the copper washers leaking or if it's the line itself. So far its a small leak, just a drip. Could this cause a slight hard start issue? I noticed yesterday morning she seemed to start a bit harder than normal. (Temp was low/mid 40's) Thinking of just…

I got called out to a site that has a JCB 416 loading shovel, 4.4 Perkins 4 cylinder diesel that was misfiring (or so the muppets at the site said. Got there and started it to check, misfiring was an understatement, fuel filters all clean, air cleaner too. Slackened injector lines off one by one 1. RPM dropped a lot barely running, good spray 2. Same as No1 3. Ran much better with no3 line slightly loosened and rpm actually increased, bubbling air when loosened, rpm decreased on tightening injector line. 4. Same as 1 and 2 So decided to pull no3 injector as I figured injector pintle not closing for some reason IE tip dropped off or pin…

Ive got the fan out and shroud off while im installing new dampener and figured while Im there might as well fix the leak. Im not sure if the timing cover has a gasket or if just sealant. Anyone give me a heads up. Thanks

Hey All - new paying member to the forum. Taking a break from the CF for a bit. Question is all too familiar I suspect. Trying to decide what to do with my 2nd gen to optimize my setup. I'm towing - or should say carrying a new truck camper (~2800 lbs) and lately going through the Washington state mountain passes and ridgelines. Lots of long slopes. My signature shows my mods but mainly I want to see if I'd be better served by increasing my injector size from 50HP to 100 to better pair with the Fleece HX35 63/65 turbo i'm running. I do see a bunch of lag even with the Quad tow tune I'm running that i had the guys @ DAP build for me. I control EGTs on long inclines mainly…

Just got back from walmart with a gal of Supertech 2 stroke 24.00 a gal. Went on line and ordered Pennzoil with TC 3 17.47 a gal. Im not sure but I read somewhere supertech was made by Pennzoil. Anyone know for sure? Moderators not sure were this should go, thanks.

I finally got this kit installed last week, it took me about 4 days with the help of some friends. I used the Crazy Carls 2/3 compound kit for a 2nd gen 24v with an S300 turbo. This was not as easy as I thought it would be, a couple times I seriously considered going back to stock. Some of the issues were a result of the kit and some were not. The instructions were pretty vague and kind of a one size fits all deal. I wouldn't put this in the hands of a non mechanically inclined person and like any good install, I had parts left over. One thing that attracted me to this kit was not having to relocate the A/C, battery or heat exchanger. The aftermarket exhaust manifo…

So I installed new Clutch and now it has a small drive line wine. Nothing serious just noticeable. So I ordered the Fluidampr harmonic balancer from DAP. Anyone hear using one? Yeah I know should have asked first. lol

My truck has had a oil leak for a while but in the last two weeks its now a problem. Any tips or advice on making this job any easier?

Wondering where the best place is to purchase a quality remanufactured VP44 injection pump. I have a 2000 Dodge, 5 speed, 4 inch exhaust. Everything else is stock. Appreciate any suggestions.

Today several quick starts & several delayed cranks. Checked codes got a 1693 code in the mileage box. Read several comments about this being a companion code. Got the scanner out and Scanner captured P0380 Glow Plug Heater Cir P1690 CKP SENSOR doesn’t agree with ECM CKP sens P1689 NO COMMENT BETWEEN ECM & injector pump mod P0122 Throttle pedal sensor circuit low

Just had am email from Rockauto dealer closeout on parts for 1998 to 2000 ram

Does anyone have any experience with these guys or their turbos? https://instaspoolperformance.bigcartel.com/history-of-savage-fabrication I know the Borg stuff is newer technology, but I really REALLY like these guys’ story. They seem to care a lot about their craft and the product they build for their customers. I might be oversimplifying it, but it looks like he just remastered the he351cw and offers it as a true drop in replacement for the HX35.