2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello everyone, a while back I installed a bd boost fooler along with a set of RV275 injectors. I installed a boost gauge before this just to see the difference, if any before and after this was done. My truck would build 24ish pounds on a hard pull, same with a trailer behind it. No change in boost after injectors or fooler. I had my scanner hooked up yesterday playing around and noticed my ECM was seeing 14lbs at idle, and when my truck was actually making 20lbs the ECM would show 34lbs. Shouldn't that be setting an overboost code? Was just curious if this was normal with the foolers?

Came back from a 1900 mile vacation with the 30ft trailer. Weight w/truck approx 17000lbs to 18000. Part of the trip from Dubious, WY, to about Moran WY, 5 % and a 6 % grades pulls, at 2 to 10 mph for approx. 20 miles , 6900 ft to 9600 ft. This was all road construction, mud, holes, no pavement and a pilot car. The transmission, hit 240+ and the truck at 220. I am running syn. in everything. I pulled over were I could and cooled off at the summit. For 1800 miles the truck ran great. My question would a fan on the transmission cooler help or ad a fan and extra cooler help and which one. I will be going again. Sorry for the long post. Thanks

I'm looking for opinions!What type of information is available on oil filters for the 24v engine.In this day and age is there any real differnces?

I dont mean to high jack but am I understanding it right when you say dont let it idle long? You say go ahead and start lightly driving to keep build up from forming? And is this build up in the form of fuel in crank case?

Well I can can show you with 2 pictures I got from another member over on CumminsForum.com.The ECM circuit board is folder in half inside the case frame. This first picture has all the 50 pin connector that is facing the fender.I the next picture down toward the bottom edge you can see the processor, RAM, PROM, etc. This half is facing the engine.

So to save some time I did install the rear main first ***the first time*** but due to some dunce from Oklahoma, the rear main housing had a hole that was stripped, so obviously I had to replace it. At this point I had already installed the oil pan so I tried to reinstall another rear main housing without messing up the oil pan and what do you know, the gasket slipped inside of the pan and now the pan won't come off. Instead of using RTV on the pan I used this Permatex spray gasket and it seals pretty well apparently! Any tips on how to remove it without damaging the gasket or anything? I'll leave some pics of what the oil pan gasket looks like under the rear main. If I c…

I have a ton of AN line and fittings ranging from #3 to #12 lines and fittings. I was wondering if anyone knows off hand the thread type after you remove the Banjo bolts from the filter? Also what size line would ya run i am guessing #6 or #8. Thanks CD

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroxy Commonly used in Power Service... I quote...

Have a 2000 5 speed 24v. Edge juice with attitude, 3.55s, 33” tires with leveling kit, fass150, getting poor mileage and not driving hard at all. Avg 13 hand calculated. Have dead pedal frequently, will last 5-10 sometimes 15 seconds then pedal will come back. CEL came off ran code p0237 low voltage. Checked some grounds, ran great for 2 weeks. Dead pedal came back no CEL. Changed map sensor still no help. Went over grounds again all look good. Truck has new batteries and all new terminals within past 6 months.

Hi all. I'm running into an issue that's got me pretty frustrated, and I'm not making a ton of progress, but I've ruled a lot of stuff out. Problem: My truck never boosts over 20-21 PSI (and I think it should given my mods), EGT's also seem SLIGHTLY higher than they should be. Not noticing power issues though. History: When I got the truck a bout a year ago, it only had upgraded (RV275) injectors. It always boosted up to 19 psi and no more. I added a Diablosport Power Puck (used), boost fooler (used), and boost elbow (new), and now I get around 20 psi (occasionally 21), and no more. What I've done: - Discovered a cracked exhaust manifo…

my truck shouldn't have had an in tank fuel pump hey?what im asking is what me as second owner putting in the raptor 150 and finding stock in the tank could mean..1. vp44 has been starved?2.was there any special order in '01 that would make this possible stock3.he replaced with another stock lp in the tank (wasn't there a recall?)

Hi everyone, I am trying to get all the gauges l on my edge programmer to work, I'm lacking on the fuel pressure , I had it hooked up working fine, then I installed a fass fuel pump the big one, and doing that eliminated the banjo fitting at the vp44 , so my question is could someone please tell me where I can find a fitting like a T that will let me screw the sensor into the side. ? Or any suggestions?

I had a new torque converter installed about 50,000 miles ago. I'm not real happy with the low stall aspects of it. When you shift into gear it hits pretty hard. My question is...if I installed a towing valve body which increases line pressure, will the shift into gear be even more exaggerated? Is this adjustable at all? Would installing a new valve body increase the life expectancy of my 47re? It's got 215,000 miles on it. I tend to baby the transmission. I don't lug it much. Tend to keep rpms higher when under a heavy load. Third question...with the upgraded valve body can I get more control of shifting? Obviously I can select 1,2 and lock out overdrive. But the control…

So a buddy of mine, messing around in the snow today hit a curb with the rear right tire on his 01 HO truck. Now when I say hit I mean HIT it hard. The part of the rim where they clip weights on folded over onto the rim and broke. The axle is sitting 1/2in or more to the driver side, and the tire is sitting further back in the wheel well, almost rubbing the mudflap. It was packed with snow when he called me over, but from what I could gather the U bolts on the passenger side are bent, shifting the axle to the side. The block is also not centered between the U bolts anymore. It looks like it may have sheared the bolt that sticks through the bottom of the spring and sl…

Well it has come time to rebuild my transmission. Ive recently replaced the governor solenoid and sensor, adjusted bands and replaced filter and fluids. Well now it is not down shifting. The forward band is worn beyond use, and I'm sure that with the shifting issues I've experienced over the last two year that the rest of the internal works are worn just as bad. Ive adjusted bands, changed fluid and filter, adjuster TV cable, replaced solenoid and sensor, and still no improvement. So it is just worn out, closing in on 200,000 miles with a stock tranny, I can't complain. :lol:So I'm doing the Sun Coast M3GA 3 Alto Transmission Kit, Sun COast Triple Disc Torque Converter, …

So the other day my truck would not start. When I turned on the key, the WTS light did not come on, then it would crank and crank and not fire. I opened three injector lines, but no fuel was coming out of them as I cranked. I finally used some starting fluid to get it running. Two of the lines still did not have any fuel coming out of them and the truck was running rough. I closed all the lines, reved the engine up and it finally started firing on all six. I was able to drive it, even shut it off and restart it, but then a few days later when I tried to start it it would just crank with not fire. I checked the voltage going into the VP44 and I do have voltage in wh…

Have any of you ever had an oil analysis performed? Curious what others have gotten back. Can’t say I fully understand the report or what the thresholds should be, but the guy who did it seemed surprised at how good everything looked at nearly 300K and 3,400 miles on the oil. Rotella 15w40 and Mopar filter.

My truck will be driving just fine for a couple days, but sometimes I will start it up and try to take off and I will just die right there, or I’ll be in a drive thru and I’ll be sitting there and it will die with no warning. Today it happened 4 times by the time I could get all the way through the drive thru. Starts up just fine, but for some reason it dies when I have it in drive with my foot on the brake. I don’t know if this has anything to do with it but I did notice recently that I have a leak coming from my hydro booster. Any help would be great

Just rebuilt my 47re and have a couple problems going on. It is slipping with the TC locked, no matter in drive or overdrive. Fluid level keeps going down with no leaks and not going into the antifreeze like a cooler is blown out or something. I have already put 16 quarts of oil in the transmission and it is showing a quart low again. Just put in a stock overhaul kit, a shift kit in the valve body and a single disc billet converter. I'm kinda lost for where to go next other than keep dumping fluid to the thing until it quits going down.

I am pretty close to buying my first dodge diesel pickup, and I found a 2000 2500 club cab 6 speed camper special sport 4x4 for 9600. It is a 1 owner truck very well maintained with 166,000. The owner used it to pull a 5th wheel occasionally and here is the kicker....it has a 53 block. As of this moment there are no cracks or coolant leaks. What do you think? It is a really nice truck, but this and the typical vp44 issues give me pause before I pull the trigger. The other truck I am looking at is a 98 12v with 142000 for $9500. only problem with that is it has an auto transmission, which I feel would probably be more trouble than a manual. I like the idea of a 12v mostly…