2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm not good with wiring/volts etc. I'm trying to install a Timbo APPS and I can't seem to get things right. My battery tester works, but only has a range of 4v-19v (first picture) so it's out of range for the APPS. I just bought a another voltmeter and I can't even get it to read the battery volts...do I have things plugged in the right areas? According to the directions I should hvae the leads in the right areas and setting at 200 or 500 for the battery and I'm still getting nothing!

Have re-routed my CCV as in Mopar's pictures on Thread. i am getting a oil mist spray under trans & frame whats up with this?, Funny thing is it use's no oil between changes that i can tell. MOPAR TO THE RESCUE!

Went to start my 1999 2500 and the battery was dead. After charging the battery, My wait to Start light was flashing and wouldn't start. I have read a lot about this pointing to a bad ECM. I was planning on sending mine to carcomputerexchange.com. $514 for a rebuild and lifetime warranty. I haven't pulled any codes yet. I'm going to buy an OBD2 reader tomorrow when i get off work. My questions are... 1. Is there anything that would fry the ECM that i should check before the new one goes in? 2. Has anyone dealt with carcomputerexchange? Also, my WTS light hasn't come on at all for about a year, but starts overtime no matter the temperature. …

How do I tell what module the DTC is set by? ECM or PCM? I have a 99 so the key reading codes with the key on/off does not work. I do have a code reader (BlueDriver) A little background about 4 months ago it got pretty cold and I had a rough cold start which popped P0122 with a slight pedal stutter. Cleared code chalked it up as a cold start low voltage issue. A week or so later it did it again a couple of times. I swapped out with a Timbo Apps and no more issues. This morning another cold morning not too bad of a cold start no pedal issues detected however It popped P0122 again. I am now wanting to go through the complete troubleshooting tree however I do no…

So I think my front steering got bent in the accident. As you can see in one of the pictures the tie rod coming from the drivers side is hitting the front differential when the wheels are turned. I tried to get a picture of the shape but I'm not sure what the factory bends look like. Either way the insurance is going to replace it because the alignment is messed up and it's hitting the cover. I posted a link to the updated steering below, which will work on 01 & 02 models. Does anyone here have experience with the update? http://www.factorymoparparts.com/52122362af.html (Oil spots are NOT mine btw)

Seems like after a drive I tend to trigger a po1690. I have no noticable issues. I changed out my cam position sensor in case my old one was bad it didnt seem to change anything. New one still popping a cell light. I have a 2001 24v so no crank position sensor on my truck. Truck runs fine with or without the cel just not sure what to do to get it to go away. Fuel pressure is 16psi with an air dog.

Ok! today I got a phone call from LE Engineers. They make custom oil, grease, and other things like fuel additives We had a very nice phone chat and I explained to him that I had used their some of their products for like 20 years. Mainly our company used the grease because we had such a high wear rate on our equiptment. Their grease is unbeatable for wear reduction, I have observed it in pressure wear tests. I don't sell or buy the products today because it's not cheap. I told him I had about a fourth of a tube of their grease left that I borrowed as I retired. He is going to send me a couple tubes for around the home lubing. I will be…

I lost my power steering and brakes. I left it set for a couple days started it up and let it run for about a half hour and got them back, but had a loud noise coming from the pump when I turned our hit the brakes. I had read in a couple places to change the fluid, started to do this and noticed the fluid was all foamy. I changed the fluid and it took for ever to get power steering and brakes. Drove it this morning and lost it again, went to check fluid and seen it was coming out the fill cap, opened it up and it was all foamy again. What do I need to do?

2001 25004x4 5 speed started out truck ia a base model had no Cruise control! I installed a new criuse clockspring and new cruise switches now the cruise light will quickly flash on when I turn it on but won't stay on also I've never had any problem with codes and now I got a code1595 speed control solenoid! Do I have one of theese with a manual trans? I thought the PCM runs the cruise. Any help would be great! Thanjs

So over on the CF this guy was talking about getting his block acid bathed, is there anything good to come out of this?

Alright the other day, I noticed a drop in fuel pressure. Its been a continuous thing since then. It will now run at 15psi instead of 20 at idle. I did not mess with the pressure regulator or anything else of that nature. I have less than 10k miles on the fuel filter.I'm worried that if it is not the fuel filter, it could be the airdog pump going out, AGAIN...I will have to check the fuel pressure gauge and make sure the connections are still good and air is not getting into the system.I use permatex thread sealant, its really sticky stuff and says it wont be dissolved by fuels. If this is my problem, anyone have any suggestions about what sealant to use on the connection…

So I'm getting ready to put in my new pump and really don't want to screw up the keyway. I know putting superglue on the key is recommended, and I'm wanting to do that, but my key is really on the pump shaft pretty firmly. Should I yank it out to superglue it or dab glue on the corner where the key and shaft meet?

I have the Raptor-100 lift pump and running it to the stock fuel filter on my truck using a big line kit from Vulcan.Had to change out the Raptor a month ago and when doing so found some debris in the big screen in the pump. Not much but I work with airplanes and do not want to see ANYTHING but fuel there. Friend of mine with a F-350 Ford is recommending a "Goldenrod" style filter to me, says that the Ford community uses them on their diesels with the "water-block" filters and has very good success.Anyone else doing this? I would put the filter between the tank and before the Raptor to protect the lift pump and still keep the stock filter in place. Thanks,FT

Hey everyone,My truck has developed a transmission line leak. It is from the fitting on the drivers side transmission line. (Looking up at it) I will try to post a pic. Anyways, I've read that those fittings suck, and was wondering if I can just replace it with regular transmission line and a hose clamp? Is there an o ring in these fittings that let go or are they just notorious for leaking. Any help would be great thanks.

I have been looking for two days for a 2001 3500 fuel lever sending unit module without the fuel pump in it but, I can not find one. Anybody know where I can get one?? I have an Airdog 165 with a fuel module upgrade kit on it and one of the return lines is cracked sucking air :banghead: . My fuel pressure gauge is jumping from 16 to 19 erratically . I don't think installing a Vulcan draw straw would help me because, I still need to have that port for a return maybe? I am not sure. The Vulcan has three ports on it maybe I can some how plug the broke one off if I don't have to use it. Anybody know? Thanks for any suggestions

Just thought I would share with you what I am using in my rigs. Had the head mechanic for Maverik convience stores recommend this to me. He told me he could tell the difference on which engines ran it and which didn't. I have been happy with it. It has a HFRR score of 370 at a 1:1000 ratio. http://texasrefinery.com/

I was doing some digging for ISX for Drag formulas and such and ran across this page and had to share with you... http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php#2 Here is what I figured out for my Empty run and my 235/85 R16 tires (Crr .009) http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php?Weight=7900&WeightUnits=lbs&CRR=.009&Cd=.45&FrontalArea=37&FrontalAreaUnits=ft^2&FuelWh=37953&IceEfficiency=.22&DrivetrainEfficiency=.95&ParasiticOverhead=0ρ=1.164&FromToStep=40-65-1 Then here is my offroad 265/75 R16 tires (Crr of .015) http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php?Weight=7900&WeightU…

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphthalene Moth Balls are made from Naphthalene 99.95% Here is the EPA scorecard on Moth balls... http://www.scorecard.org/chemical-profi ... TH%20BALLS Name of Substance Naphthalene Naphthalene [bSI:ISO] Synonyms AI3-00278 Albocarbon CCRIS 1838 Camphor tar Caswell No. 587 Dezodorator EINECS 202-049-5 EPA Pesticide Chemical Code 055801 HSDB 184 Mighty 150 Mighty RD1 Moth balls Moth flakes NCI-C52904 NSC 37565 Naftalen [Polish] Naphtalene [iSO:French] Naphthalene Naphthalin Naphthaline Naphthene RCRA waste number U165 Tar camphor White tar …

My truck has a 151,000 miles on it. I have been using synthetic oil for more than a decade in a number of other vehicles. I have noticed that on some of the vehicles that had more than say 50,000 miles on them, that a few of them developed oil leaks after switching to synthetic. When I switched back to petroleum based oil, all but one of them stopped leaking. My question is: Has anyone developed oil leaks once they switched to synthetic oil on a 2nd. gen. Dodge/Cummins that had say 50,000 or so more miles on it ? Thanks...Hood Latch

my 2001 2500 24 valve auto needs help, when cruising at 90 km and wanting to pass another vehicle, step on the accelerator, truck kicks down, speeds up to 100 km or so then falls on its face rpms go to governor but truck wont increase speed any more, have to pull back in behind, any suggestions