2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

anybody ever heard of this . Or does anybody have one???http://gopointtech.com/products/. from the info on the website it sounds like it be pretty sweet

I'm going to replace the vibration damper (harmonic balancer) this weekend and was wondering if it is directional or has to be aligned with a mark anywhere? When I resealed my timing cover a couple years ago I just slapped it back on and torqued to spec, but I figured I'd ask the genesius this time. It's an oem cummins, can't run anything else with the fuel boss... Thanks John

I have never had one die but here's whats happing. It shuts off just like you turned the key off and back on in a split second. It did it about 10 times in two miles. I have been hauling heavy off and on for about two weeks. I mean my foot in it climbing hills and such with about 29k combo weight. Another thing my boost will only climb to 21 and takes for ever to get there. EGTS wont get above 1000. Now the only thing I am running is the boost elbow that came with the old Edge EZ, you would think it would be better than that. I have just been driving like grand paw for the past year or so but am back to custom baling for the public. I didn't know it was so low on HP. This…

Hi Guys, Just thought I would mention what I have just recently gone through. My fuel gauge line is connected to a small needle vale on the fuel pump and over time, the gauge needle valve has vibrated open. I started to hear this tick while driving and thought I had an exhaust manifold leak. Kept looking and checking and found nothing out of the ordinary. This went on for a while and I was getting frustrated and concerned due to the exhaust burning metal away at the gasket area. One day I happen to watch the fuel gauge as I booted it to pull away in traffic and the gauge needle jumped in time with the "tick" - ahh I thought, has to be the gauge line valve. Adjuste…

Please post things you might want to buy. Please no PM's until I decide what to do and so that we can keep first come first serve. I just want to see if it's worth parting out right now. These have already been asked. I think they are hazed over like typical lights but the rest is ok. I'll check and report back. Correct. 02 is all mine.

Can this be due to a bad IAT sensor?

Has anyone heard of Rotomaster turbo rebuild kits. Rock Auto sells them for about $35. Thinking of trying one mine is starting to get a little oil past the seals.

Hey guys, Im looking for any recs on a 12 volt switched wire to hook my 2low kit up to that is convenient under the dash. I was thinking of going with the upper cig lighter, but if there are any that are easier to get to id entertain the feedback. Thanks.

So I've got 4th gear hunt on my truck. It is intermittent. I've had the alternator tested every which way and it always comes out good, be it bench testing, on car etc. It's also pretty new. I've gone ahead and done that ATS fix to bypass the ECM, but immediately threw a p0123. I did an apps reset, tried to clear the code and still there. Truck runs ok, but I'm at a loss. I'm supposed to roll out for my trip on Sunday. Any thoughts?

So I'm getting ready to put in my new pump and really don't want to screw up the keyway. I know putting superglue on the key is recommended, and I'm wanting to do that, but my key is really on the pump shaft pretty firmly. Should I yank it out to superglue it or dab glue on the corner where the key and shaft meet?

I have a rough procedure up and mostly completed, just need to put in torque specs and sequence of a few things and its done. this will get you from a bare block to an assembled block ready to go in the truck. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/481-24v-cummins-rebuild-step-by-step?hitcount=0

Been noticing a change in the sound of my truck the last month or so but still working the same, no smoke, no hard starts etc. Tonight I got dead pedal about 5-6 times when towing my trailer. Did the odmometer read and its showing the 216 code which I know what it means. My question is this..each time I got dead pedal I looked and I'm still holding 17-19 psi with no drop. Only drop I see in pressure is now at an idle im at 12-13 instead of the usual 16psi. Is dead pedal normal when holding good psi? Calling around about pumps tomorrow unfortunatley

Today, after FLUSHINg P/S System, i Pulled of my 4-yr old BHAF Air Filter to replace with new, When i pulled Boot off of turbo, there it was,, the Compressor wheel blades were Damaged, "Not wiped out" but few of the edges of blades are frayed up pretty good, but there's no excessive play in the shaft and the blades hasn't been rubbing the housing.... im trying to post pictures

Hi guys, Concerning my truck below in my signature.....When driving the truck in any Edge tune, the truck is hard to rev above 2000 rpms. This is while driving normal and not hotrodding the truck. If I floor the truck, sure it will rev up beyond 2000rpm, but during normal driving the truck accelerates nicely until 2000rpm then just falls on it's face while maintaining my pedal position. This is even more noticable while towing a trailer. It's hard to get my rpm's up to grab the next gear. I have experimented with all Edge tunes and doesn't seem to matter. My boost appears to be fine. EGT's are good. BTW, i am only getting 16mpg highway or city. Time for …

Anyone know why I would have my power steering fluid overflowing? All was fine for 3 weeks without driving it (Driveway statue) and then one hot day it's coming out the cap. With truck sitting idle for 3 weeks, suddenly the fluid is at the top and overflowing.

So my alternator wire is pretty ragged. I'm talking about the one that runs from the fuse to the alternator. I would really like to replace it, or at least fix it up a bit, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if it is actual straight wire, or a fusible link. I'm thinking it's straight wire as it has a fuse in line too. My thought is to have a new run made up with new ends, and either cut out the old wire from the harness or simply route new alongside. Thoughts? I'm thinking it's either 6 or 4 ga wire. Anyone know?

I'm wondering if there would be any issue with replacing the whole "T" line assembly with 2 barbed banjo fittings (maintaining the stock check valve bolt at the VP44) and 3/8 3 way barbed T fitting and some 3/8 fuel hose. I bent my assembly pretty good when I pulled the head (forgot to unbolt the line bracket at the head when I pulled it), and I think I'm getting air in the system, as it now takes about 15 seconds to start in the morning. This is different from the barely touching the key I had before pulling the head. To replace the whole assembly from Cummins appears to be about $130, and you are still dealing with the crummy hard-line and rubber washer setup.

So as the title states, is it necessary to retorque (ensure all bolts are up to correct ft/lb) the head bolts after break in and some mileage after full rebuild? So far i have about ~3000miles on my rebuild. I have had no issues but i heard rumors of needing to recheck torque on all head bolts. I am also unsure of what the ft/lb is to check for if needed. I did do proper install on head per rebuild manual. thoughts suggestions?

First, I had the diode installed to the IAT sensor. Did this mod since it first came out. Had no problems with it until recently. The code just started the past couple of months. In the back of my mind I kept thinking it was related to the morning cold. Finally decided it was time to get rid of the engine code light from reappearing. Long story short, the wiring harness was in good shape. Figured the easiest way to see where the problem was to put it back to stock. Been fine since. Amazing that a 10 cent part can change everything!

IS IT COMPLICATED JOB TO DROP VALVE BODY AND INSTALL 3-4 ACCUMULATOR I installed a new Goerend/ Dynotec Transmission last February as some of you may have noticed in my sig. It works Great except I've noticed that it shifts into 4th gear Hard. So i figured it was probably just settling in where it was new and may just need adjustment later on and i had gotten busy with business and other things so i just kinda put it off till later and see if it got better, i was running highway when i did drive it so no big deal, well lately I've been riding it around local and its become a PITA. So i Called Ken at DYNOTEC and asked him about it and he insured me it is an e…