2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Instead of starting a new thread I figured I would try here...... I picked up a snow plow for a friend the other night. It was about a 20 minute ride and the temp got a little over 190* possibly right around 210*-220* , and the outside temp around 45-55*. I've already relocated the puke bottle and cleaned the radiator. Just wondering if anybody has run into this ,although when it is cold enough to snow I have a feeling this may not happen.

Has anyone one installed one? Their online literature states they use 12 diodes with 300% more surface area to dissipate heat.

I had two different questions and just lumped them in to one thread. First, does anyone have a good write up for draw straw install? Going to do it Friday and wanted to make sure I have everything I need. Second, I just read somewhere that the 24v's also have the killer dowel pin problem. In my ignorance I thought it was only the 12v. If so how prevalent is it? I worked for a company with a fleet of over 100 6bt and 4bt engines and never saw the killer dowel pin however I did see the bolts back out of the housing on two occasions. I guess I'm wondering if this should be a 911 issue?

So I blow the guts out of my limited slip and bears from all the metal. So in a nuts shell mass destruction is what I ended up with. Question I have is anyone running a arb air locker in there truck that was my 3rd limited slip that's failed so I am going to go for broke this time. I was told they are the tanks of lockers. I don't really know what to expect. I have this horrible feeling in going to be ripping of air line left and right.I am also getting on board air for locker and air bags anyone options on safe spots I should mount the tank.

I have 3/8" fuel line everywhere on my truck and was looking at getting Beans sump kit for next month's project, which comes with a 1/2" fitting. Can I run 1/2" from the tank to the fuel filter or should I run 3/8"?

I juste got a probleme With this code on my cummins 2001 and I have no power I've change de cam sensor and try all the test I see on the site that tell me that i have too change thé ECU module can i do another test because its prety expansive if its not that

hello again, I noticed something funny tonight when I pulled in the driveway. after turning stereo down, I went to turn truck off, turned key backwards and pulled key out but truck stayed running then I looked over at the tach and truck was idling at 1200 for no apparent reason. much higher than usual. while it was still running I check the juice module to see if the turbo cool down was on. but it wasn't. at the time it made sense because I had just driven 13hrs. Any thoughts? thnx in advance, Bill

While putting on my bhaf I noticed I do have a software update sticker on my pcm on the firewall. So is there a way to take the numbers and find out what the update was?

So i got a 68 ohm resistor and plugged it into the iat plug, cold engine, I let it run 4 min. And nothing but the check engine light came on immediately. Is that normal for the light to come on. Did I do it right and my high idle is not enabled?

Does anyone have access to the software that the dealer uses to view exploded parts diagrams & part numbers for our trucks? Or is there anything out there that allows us to do this? Thanks!

I used to monitor the fuel pressure with an Dakota Digital electric gauge. After 8 years of service the ULSD ate the pressure sender so I replaced the gauge with an ISSPRO mechanical and isolator. Same arrangement just different gauge. Its been on there for about 2 years now but even though it reads quite accurately, it does something odd. At idle the gauge needle is solid around 20 psi and when cruising along down the freeway the gauge is solid at around 18 psi. Then all of a sudden the needle will "bob" down a couple psi and quickly return. Its a more fluid action as this is a mechanical gauge but is also very random and kinda hard to watch for too. But.....if I'…

I 've had some clutch interlock problems getting my truck started, I wiggle the switch on the clutch pedal shaft and the truck will start. Today I went to start it, and nothing. I wiggle the switch and then hop in to start it. No lights on dash, no odometer, Battery has plenty of juice, because I just drove it I checked the instrument panel fuse, and its fine. I know my ECU harness had a few shorts, could that be the cause? . Also, while we are on the topic, can I use an automatic engine wiring harness on a 5 speed truck? I would really like to drive the truck instead of work on it all the time. Appreciate any help folks can offer. Thanks

Anybody see a boost reading on a Scangauge II showing Boost 0.1 cold engine and 21.3 after it warms up? While cold it drives like a slug, but when warm drives like a dragster. Thanks for any comments.

Well it came to bite me with age now. All my original AirDog hoses from way back in 2005 (I think) now started a leak on the line between the stock filter to the VP44. Most likely from being messed with during the gauge install. So the truck is parked for the time being and Eric is sending me a 14 foot roll of Parker Fuel line for my truck I'm going to replace all my fuel lines.

I replaced my APPS sensor this evening and went out for a test drive. I drove it harder than usual and noticed at WOT I can hear a flapping sound from the engine compartment. Kind of like shaking out a dry shirt. Only happens at WOT though. Fuel psi is 15 and boost is 28 at WOT. Also when I pulled into the driveway and slowed down the engine stumbled and almost died. Then came back to normal. Any ideas?

As things come up, I will resurrect this thread to ask questions. Will I be able to have the clutch pedal safety switch to lock out starting unless clutch pedal is depressed? Do you see it as possible to do the swap on the shop floor without a lift? I'll get one of those harbor freight transmission jacks. I had a ride in a same year truck as mine with a nv4500. I like the personality of the manual transmission. I'm looking forward to swaping out mine!

Ladies and gents, i need to ask if anyone has a RV275 injector in good working order new/used they want to sell or give away? I think #6 may have been damaged when the cylinder got too hot. Please let me know as soon as possible, pm me if you do. thank you all for your help! randy

Silly question why doesn't this trick come stock. Why do we have to add all the stuff we do to make things better? Can't they make things to get the best gpms. So if I get the fooler I will need to have the re flash of the computer to have it work right if it hasn't already been done.

Do you guys worry about the stuff in this video? Measuring alignment issues. Or just cram the transmission in?

Driving home tonight then same old demon came back again. At 50-60 mph t/c started locking and unlocking. This thing is giving me a run for my money. My alternator is within spec, all grounds have been checked, cleaned, and had dielectric grease applied. Just to waste time and money I relocated the alternator ground cable away from the alternator across the radiator. Also I blew the 25.00 on the BD Apps noise isolator. I don't know what else to do now. Is there anything else that can cause this problem?, Anything!