2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Howdy...first post but long time lurker. Sadly I am in a pinch and need some smarter minds than I (which don't take much). Not too long ago my WTS (wait to start) light quit working...I was new-ish to the truck at the time and now living in So Cal I thought it was an ambient temp thing and the truck did not need the warmers. After looking into it it seems either the bub is bad OR the ECU, right? So, I did a gauge check (via holding the odo button and turning key to on) the WTS light came on at the VERY beginning of the test but did NOT illuminate at the end when all the other bulbs were getting checked per the procedure. So that is confusing to me...some part of …

The vacuum pump is so hard to RxR I feel a need to inform all of a glitch I found in the Cummins Forum pictorial and instructions. The seal directions and picture of the seal coming out are WRONG! They show and explain that the dust seal side of the seal faces the vac pump. The cummins instructions say that the spring side of the seal should face the vac pump. The spring side of the seal always faces the area to be sealed.

Well I'm only hopping that what I just experienced isnt what I think it is but nonetheless.....this is what happened. This last weekend I took the trailer up in the mountains, as I've done many times before. As usual for the north state valley area, it was stinking hot outside and I was pulling hills in 100* weather. No fun either as everything just gets too darned hot when its like that, but surprisingly this truck does amazingly well in staying within the tolerable running gear temps. The situation I'm posting about occurred when I crested the top of one longer grade. I was at about 5500 ft in altitude, running in 3rd gear at around 2300 RPM, and the engine was on t…

Help! I'm trying to install my rebuilt NV4500 with the bellhousing on the engine. I'm on gravel, and can only raise vehicle on jack stands, the fork and the throw-out bearing will NOT stay in place. I've removed the bellhousing and zip tied the open end of the fork, where the hydraulic rod goes, and tried to put it back on the engine. Is there a clip or retaining ring on the other side of the fork I'm missing? If I attached the bellhousing to the trans, that would solve this, but is there another way? I do not have a lot of room for the bellhousing and I 've just moved the cross member down enough for the trans to clear I have my teenage kids to help, but t…

While installing my Battery Cable [battery to Starter] I noticed a round object about four inches in diameter and eight inches long, attached to the engine block in front and above the starter. I can not figure out what this is. I looked in my Haynes repair manual and there is nothing about it. Does any one with a Dodge/Cummins 1998.5 24v have this part or know what it is.

I just want to give you folks a heads up for LarryB's. I ordered Military Type Battery Connectors from LarryB's and had them in my mail box in five days as promised. When I installed the connectors I found that the two Pos connectors fit perfect, one Neg. fit and one did not. I checked both Neg, connectors and they had different markings on them.I called LarryB's and told Larry the problem. He told me that he had just changer suppliers and and he was on the road but would send another connector as soon as he got back to the office. He did what he promised, with me this is a big deal. His word is good and I will do business with him again because he treated me right. I re…

I posted a question about my fuel gauge reading higher than normal last week. Sounds like the sending unit in the tank is bad. Today my engine temp is reading about 25* low. Pretty simple and cheap to change thermostat, in fact I have one one hand. Then probably looking at the temp sensor in the head. But now I'm becoming skeptical about these two conditions happening at roughly the same time. About a week apart. Engine operating normal it seems. Just wondering if these two conditions could be related in a weird way?

A friend of mine has a 2001, the problem is that he developed a small coolant leak from the front of the head between the head and block. We re-torqued the bolts and it helped, but still seeps! Anyone ever just replaced the bolts and torqued them to factory specs? Can you get the rear ones out? Are studs a better way to go? Obviously he should remove the head do some work, we are hoping for something less stressful!

Couple items I am having trouble with. Have an 01 with 190,000. 50hp injectors and a newish DTT Assassin lift pump. Original VP as far as I know. I do run 2-stroke at 1oz/gallon. Ever since I installed the assassin lift pump I have been having trouble with consistent fuel pressure. For those that don't know the DTT is a mechanical fuel pump that drives off the harmonic balancer, so in theory, as rpms increase so does fuel pressure. I have yet to see this happen. Right now I will idle at 17psi and drop to 10psi when I get into the pedal. I changed out the fuel filter a couple times and when I do the problem goes away for a day or so, then returns. I was curio…

I was driving in hot weather up hill last week (dont know if temp related), when the "Check Engine" light came on, I noticed the volt meter was all the way down to the left most line (same as engine off position). When I arrived at the top and started on the decent; I noticed the overdrive does not work (auto trans), also the cruise control is not working, and the trans appears to slip on take off. Referencing the PCM (power control module) info; the pcm controls the above items, I have not noticed any other items on the list malfunctioning. Before I spend $400 or more for a new pcm, I would like to make sure it is the module or bad connection, ground... What is …

I just replaced my intake manifold gasket, checked/adjusted the valves, and swapped in some injectors (on the truck in my sig....). The truck starts, runs, and drives, but I have a check engine light with the P0222 code (APPS low input voltage). When scanned, it actually shows two P0222 codes. I erase the codes, but they immediately come back. Any ideas on where to start looking?

I need some help doing a very simple task but I just can't get it done. Getting old is a real bummer but I guess it is better than the alternative. This is my problem. I am attempting to install my new battery cables and I can not figure out how to un-plug the Alternator ground plug. It is located at the bottom of the left battery. I know it comes apart by squeezing or twisting the male from the female. There is one wire from the alternator to the battery neg. From the battery neg. there are two wires. One to the fender ground and one to the control box on the firewall. Both wires run through this plug and I do not want to break it, but I cant see how it comes apart. Is …

Holy Crap! Scared the **** outta me! Not just once but several times... when you're not expecting it. Yeah, our camping trip week. I left wife setting up the tents! I had a big dose of yellow pine pollen & seasonal allergy response... an immune response. Multiple Sclerosis is an auto-immune disease. So my symptoms are increased right now. I'm not well enough to camp. I was planning to commute to camp... day tripping for me... towing my landscape trailer each day with my big scooter on it... so I can really get around camp... especially hauling a cannon... To salvage the vaca, I am borrowing the inlaws F word Explorer. I will need the truck to …

I received the 'dread' P1688 - but when reviewing the various threads, it is often accompanied by a number of other fault codes and usually the poster is stating that the engine won't run. My CEL came on ....but other than a code that can be reset (engine off) - but returns when engine is running - the truck drives and the VP pumps. I expect I will have to replace the VP.....but I don't want to rush and replace it if there might be something else to check and maybe something else might be the problem rather than the VP. I did read discussions about alternator problems where a bad (shorted) diode could create an AC component on the DC - and 'fry' electronics. I checked …

Will i haven't been on for a long time thought i would start with a fun post. So I am see what other have paid to replace there rear ends. Also what brands you have gone with in the rebuild. I have three shop in my area give me a ball park low end was 1800 and high end was 3200. So far i have found pieces of my posi and i had one piece of a shim out of the pinion come out. As far as brand I can get Yukon, Nitro, and one place orders from Randy ring and pinion. Sad is this will be the first thing on this truck in 300k that has been done in my drive way. I have never been into a rear end. So any one in Washington a master rear end installer.

So in order to complete my conversion kit for my he351ve swap, I'm having trouble deciding which exhaust manifold to use. I'm trying to figure out whether or not I will see anything negative with running the 6.7 manifold than the 5.9l. Flow restrictions, etc. Sound is not a huge deal since its all going to change anyways. I don't want to keep mulcher hanging by a string, lol.

I've been driving my 02 3500 6speed dually for a year and I have yet to appreciate these stupid flip up mirrors. Am I the only one who feels this way? Visibility just blows regardless of flipped up for towing or tucked down in granny mode. I'm tempted to take them off and put the old school mirrors on. Has anyone tried modifying these mirrors? Thanks!

ok guys just found my front diff cover is leaking so im going to pull cover and re seal what do yall recommend using to seal it and what oil to put back in

My problem started out with the normal od lock and unlock issues. I cleaned all the grounds and tightened them and did the same with the battery terminal connections. That seemed to solve the problem for about a week and a half then it started again. I ended up replacing the APPS and that worked for all of three days. Recently I have replaced the alternator along with the brake light switch. Now when I drive it if I barely accelerate the rpms will shoot way up to 2500 or so. It will shift normal when doing this however it will usually start the od lock and unlock a few minutes later. it will lock and unlock several times before downshifting a gear and sometimes staying in…

I am posting this for my friend (neighbor to my mother). He has a 24V Ram, '01 I think. Anyhow, he has been fighting the lock-unlock problem for a while. I had him pull the alternator fuse and try it. Same thing, no change. I also put a multi-meter on the alt to test for AC voltage and it was .013 volts at the highest. I suggested checking the trailer plug and possibly the brake light switch. He did say that if he cleaned the battery terminals and reset the APPS it might be good for two months or two days. What else should he check?