2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Stumped here fellas just picked up a truck on a good deal didnt run was said it needed a vp so i threw an ho pump on i had laying around got it running after a hard start and some code reading later found out it needed a crank sensor after i got it running but when letting off throttle it chugged bad and ran kind of choppy put one in and it started much better but tach only works when first started then drops out short after and still idles kind of choppy and still chugs bad when letting off throttle in drive didn’t know if there was any common problems i can get more info on it tomorrow as well, thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

Hello all, I’m really hoping y’all can give me some kind of direction here. Sorry, in advance, for the long post. Let me start by telling you what I’ve got and what I know. I’m working on a 1999 Dodge 2500. A friend brought it to me after swapping from a v10 to a 24 valve. The engine, PCM, ECM, gauge cluster, fuel tank and engine harness came out of a wrecked 1999 dually so the year models match up. I’ve double checked all of the connections, battery cables, plugs, etc. and everything is how it should be. I was told it ran before he put it in but that it also sat for a year between it being pulled and then put into this current truck. Now, it won’t sta…

2001 with 326,000+ Previous sloppy work as VP44 had 2 top studs with nuts & rear bracket was broken. So I’m assuming original pump went out prior to 127,000 mi when I bought it. Over the last year, oil leak developed. I wasn’t overly concerned with miles upwards if 300,000 until I was adding 2 to 3 qts every 100 miles or so. Eventually traced the leak to either vacuum pump or pushrod cover. Resealed pump & replaced power steering pump. Still had the leak. Pulled the VP, Vacuum pump & the cover. Replaced the seal on the cover. Inside of 2 weeks the new rubber seal blew out again. I will use a high temp gasket sealant this time AND ADD aluminum fl…

Ive Done the WT mod on my truck, replaced every battery cable and installed new terminals. Im still getting surging at 45-70 mph. How do I test the AC noise coming off my alternator? I believe the alternator could be the problem as its nearly 2 years old and Idk what the shop that installed it got it from. Ive also cleaned every ground i could find on it. Is there anything else I should check?

Greetings. New subscriber, so maybe point me in the right direction please. Very intermittent throttle drop out out at 1800 RPM's (randomly every other month), check engine light: Code was MAPP sensor, TPS replaced 8 years ago with upgraded sensor and pigtail. Truck starts with no problems and runs fine, but then any push on accelerator produces clouds of white smoke and rough running sound. When beginning to drive there is low power and it doesn't run "right". After 5-10 minutes easy driving everything seems normal and it runs good with good boost (42#+ if I hammer on it). I am taking it to the shop on Wed April 27 to have new MAPP sensor installed and …

Hey guys, currently my truck has 3:55 gears and they are terrible for towing with 35’s so I’m wanting to swap to 4:10’s. I can’t find a set that will fit my truck but I found a set out of a 94, my question is will the gears from the 94 axles fit in my 2000 axles? Thanks

Ok, for some background, I’ve got 11 years working as a heavy wheel mechanic for the army and I’ve taught basic electrical, so I’m not a complete Mo-Ron at least when it comes to this stuff. I completed the WT mod as well as the PCM protection fuse … before the mod WTS would come on after about 5-6 second (I know) and truck would start right up no problem. Would do the trans lock unlock deal other wise run fine. During the mod I noticed some real janky wiring on the APPS harness (see pics) I repaired the broken and damaged wires and tested good continuity. Also noticed someone tapped a ground to the blk/blu wire on the apps harness …

I guess that's not entirely true, I did tow once last year with the turbo and injectors but that was with the Edge tuner. I had to drag my camper in for a recall fix last week. I grabbed a tow tune I found on the forum and it seemed to do pretty good. Road was mostly flat with a few small hills, had no issues keeping EGT's below 1000*, usually around 800*. I did pass 1100* once but I was hammering on it pretty good just to see how high it would go. The temps don't climb near as fast now with the stock tires and Adrenaline tuner. I gave myself 40 minutes to make what should have been a 30 minute trip and completed it in 18 minutes. Any tips or directions to go with…

I can't seem to find a source that has a conclusive answer to the question, "Does the VP44 completely shut off fueling when truck is coasting in gear on a downgrade?" It would seem to me that the VP44's high pressure solenoid valve would stop receiving signals under this condition if the APPS signal was at 0% (foot off throttle). Does anyone know if this is true with certainty? An example would be: truck with a manual transmission coasting along on a down grade at 1700 rpm with foot off of throttle. - John

Hey guys. New to the forum here. I have a 1998.5 Cummins that has been in my wife's family since day one. My wife grew up getting to drive the truck to high school when her Dad wasn't using it for work. He also used it to tow his mega truck "Crawldad II" to events in the southeast. Anyways he passed away 2 years ago and my wife wanted me to make the truck my daily driver a remembrance of her dad. When I got back from deployment this past spring we flew to TN and proceed to drive the truck from TN to WA with no issues. I only flushed/changed the fluids/filter and replaced the brakes. Outside of that the truck drove great. About a month the truck started surging at idle. Wh…

K- short as i can be. acquired gen 2 5.9 24 to pull my rig to Intel Az. Keep in mind I know nothing about diesels, haven't driven a manual in years let alone pull a 28' cross country. Work offer of a life time, short notice, freaking out. I call him he picked up, no virtual hold press every button for the next 1/2 hour BS. Mike hears my panic mode, "give me a few days to plan and ill drive down" aaaahh what, can u please repeat that,, ditto! WTF came to mind! Rearranges his could be busy for a life time schedule, then keeps me updated of his location for eta (fin thought he was in a crop duster). Shows up cracks the whip, parts flying of my front end and drive train…

I was trying to find a article from years ago about cleaning them and no luck. Is MAF by CRC sensor cleaner the same thing? I think I just remembered, clean then with acetone?

Thought I'd make another little one for this. Doing some diag and upkeep and stuff from other thread this weekend and came across this... So I can turn key on, visually see needle on gauge move 0-5 psi, next do a key bump and it shows nothing, no matter how any times I try key bump. I removed fuel line from vp44 and into a bucket. Performed key bump again, fuel flows out great fills up a gallon pail and then some. When truck is started gauge shows 15psi even while driving. I also have a spring kit from FASS to increase pressure just a tad. However I have never seen more than 16psi, only sits at 15. Idk why that is??? Stock is around 15…

Recently been doing a lot of work to my truck... Most recent, new 62/65 turbo to match my injectors, doing really well. However when the engine is hotter. I have a boost leak that's not there when cold. Found a pinhole leak in 2/4 of the intercooler boots. Rubber heats up and lets more air through that hole I guess. Anyway tried epoxy on them, temporary fix, then found new hole. So I'm looking at new boots and see that there are a lot of options. VPMAX - 219 for the boot kit silicone Mishimoto - 264.95 for the boot kit (looks rubber?) crazy carl has a whole boot and pipe kit for 265 which I was considering since plastic pipes seem like they will…

Hey everybody, I just about have all my steering troubles fixed (thanks @Mopar1973Man for the steering box tightening tips!). However, my steering wheel is still slightly off-center/crooked. I found a video showing how to remove the steering wheel, so is it simple enough to remove the steering wheel and adjust it a few degrees to the right? Or is it more complicated?

I guess Im more confused after reading a ton of options. So I mostly pull with this truck, no hot rod just hauling hay, tractors and equip. Eng. has New 50hp DAP injectors and I am ok with the power of the injectors and the HO motor. Really looking for mpg, a little hp would be nice too. So do they have a tune like this I guess the real question Im asking is what do I need? Thanks

Back when I last blew the head gasket. I sent the head in to be cleaned, checked, and surfaced again. When I got the back and installed my +150 HP injectors quite literally fell in the holes. The body o-ring was a bit small sides from the dirt or after cleaning up the head. I just finished up installing the injectors and hope for the best. Nevertheless, the o-rings create a prime loss problem every morning hard start, and white smoke even with block heater and grid heater. Nose down starts easy. I ordered a new set of o-rings then proceeded to lose the o-ring in Thor for 2 months. Then I found them again and hid them in Beast. So last Thursday I took the time to change t…

So I'm trying to figure out a previous problem where I suspect I fried my ecm. Long story short I did the wt wire mod on the truck, but didn't crimp a battery terminal right, and had a bad time. I sent the quadzilla module off, and they checked it out, and all is well with it. Truck is still throwing the same codes in the title, and with my janky Bosch scantool, I can see the map sensor still isn't reading, staying permanently stuck on 29.5hg. I tested all the wires, I'm getting good ground to the map sensor, and getting the 5 volts to it, but no signal on the wire. I have the ecm directly plugged into the map sensor (not through quadzilla) and the truck still shows…

Hey guys, I just bought a set of used injectors for my 2000 24 valve, the guy said they were DAP 100 hp but he seemed kinda greasy so I’m not so sure if I can trust him. Is there any way I can identify them from the numbers on the bodies? Any help is appreciated

I am still running the OEM muffler on my '02. Just wondering when and if it should be replaced. It has logged 363,000 miles and has been in operation for over 20 years. It still seems to perform fine, but maybe it is one of those things that can slowly deteriorate internally and cause increasing back pressure without knowing it. Should I just keep running it or replace it as a maintenance item? Any thoughts? - John