2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Got a turbo I need help identifying. Has SD-343579 etched on the charge pipe.

Hey guys, I just bought a set of used injectors for my 2000 24 valve, the guy said they were DAP 100 hp but he seemed kinda greasy so I’m not so sure if I can trust him. Is there any way I can identify them from the numbers on the bodies? Any help is appreciated

Hey all, I have a 2002 cummins 2500 SLT, manual trans, 4X4. The problem I have been having that just started a few months ago is the engine with die and then come back on going down the highway. The engine will do this on off on off surge like someone is turning the key on and off very fast. This will happen with the throttle pedal and or the cruise control. The fuel system is solid with a fass fuel pump and I have verified 15psi at my VP44. I have cleaned all grounds and verified wiring connectors are tight and problem free. I have no codes and have verified that I have no ripple effect coming from my alternator. I stopped in at a dodge performance place and went for a r…

I have an xzillarator model DXZ01s that has had the map sensors cut off and im trying to figure out how to wire the new plugs i ordered for it. The harness has 2 wires coming out of it and im trying to find out how to wire the male and female map sensor plug. I bought an ls tps extension plug and it has the male and female plugs that i need wired to each other so ill cut that in half and have three wires coming out of each plug i know one wire is a jumper but i need to figure out which one will be the jumper and then what to do with the rest of the 4 wires

A little background on the truck. I have owned it for about a year and the first thing was dead peddle issues, it wasn’t bad just some hesitation sometimes then the crank sensor went out so I replaced it and eventually put a Timbo apps in it. It has always thrown the P0222 since replacing the TPS but ran fine. I developed a bad oil leak around the vacuum pump. I removed the bolt holding the wiring harness to the side of the block to pull the wiring back for better access to the pump and have been getting the following codes ever since. My tach will go dead all other gauges are fine and the truck will lose power but not die. Usually after I drive it for about 20 minutes it…

I have a 99 cummins and it started to cut out at high rpms I though maybe it was the lp wo I did a volt test and it was putting out 13.1 volts checked the fp ar idle its sitting at 15psi changed fuel filter then added lucas additive. Yesturday my radio quit working but still has lights on it no dome light and no power to the diagnostics port if checked all the fuses they are all good. I have been told it could be a bad diode in the alt putting out ac noise and iv also been told bad ecm. I do have an issue with with my positive cables on batteries always getting super corroded not long after I clean them. I need some help here before I go dump a pile of money in this thing…

My FP sending unit went bad. I have a new one (still Glowsh!t)... I was told by Glowshift to mount the sending unit about a foot away and to use some sort of metal tubing. And then I was reading on here about a needle valve. Can someone put what I need to do in layman's terms? Also, I'm about to (finally) install my boost gauge. I am planning on drilling and tapping the boost elbow - is there a simpler/better place to put it?Lastly, I'd like to increase my MPG a little. I am planning on getting a BHAF with a filterguard, and doing something to the exhaust. A friend recommended straight piping it... ??Thanks in advance for all the help!

Passenger side firewall next to AFE intake I have a solenoid with a green and yellow wire to it, it has a vacuum line (I think) to it and a exhaust muffler. Can someone tell me what it is and what function it performs.

This is guesswho's wife... guesswhoswifey Guesswho is at work at Code Red and has asked me to make a post for him. This morning as he went to leave for work, all of the sudden the truck would not start. :banghead: His Air Dog fuel pump was not kicking on either. After 10 minutes of messing with different things, he finally got it to start and the pump had finally kicked on. He continues on to work and realizes know that now the check engine light is on and deceides to go to Autozone to have the code read. At the store they get code P1689, autozone says failed injection pump. Guesswhos question is, does this code automatically condemn the injec…

This truck has been at a garage for 4 months, its been torn apart, scattered and ignored, you get the idea. The garage said they couldn't get the codes and they didnt know what was wrong with it, I finally got it home and kinda got it togeather. When I took it to the carage it would idle, but not much more, now it wont even start...... Last night I finally got the codes off my truck, there are 12 of them as follows: P0121- tps voltage does not agree with map P0122- throttle pos sens volt low P0243- turbo boost limit exceeded P0236- map sensor too high too long P0351- fuel inj pump fuel valve feedback circ P0252- fuel inj pump fuel valve stuck P0253- fuel inj pump fuel v…

So I’m trying the download and I get this every time....anyone know what I might be doing wrong? I’ve followed the instructions to a t....also when I plug my quadzilla into my pc it chimes every few seconds? Any help would be appreciated...thanks

First time posting here but been lurking forever. I realized that there are more electrical gurus here after searching the posts, so here's my issue. And yes I'll be doing W-T's mod. My alternator is making a bunch of AC current after my grid heater relays stuck on last summer. I didn't replace the relays until this week so I didn't realize the ecm wasn't doing a preheat or fuel pump prime pre-start. I also remote start every morning so I didn't hear the fass fire off. So my questions. 1, I'm having my spare denso alternator rebuilt. But should I find a Bosch instead? They aren't subject to diode failure as easily. 2, Will the ecm continue to further…

Hey all! So I thought I had this w-t ground mod in the bag, haven't been driving it much but today I decided to drive it because I'm working on the Buick. So now I can't get two blocks without popping 150 amp breaker. Like I said I haven't been driving much really but the only thing that's changed since I did the mod a couple weeks ago is I just recently installed quadzilla, not sure if it's got anything to do with it? I thought of just unplugging quad, but will it even run right?? Plus having quad installed doesn't make sense why the breaker is popping anyhow. Any advice? I thought I read somewhere were someone was having a similar issue…

well... i just dumped $1500 in front suspension..... put in 100hp injectors ran fine lots of power. running out of funds to dump in this truck. Now that i had her running the way i want, i lost torque converter lockup. Im not the greatest when it comes to transmission department. but i dont feel the kick any more after 40 mph. and at highway speeds i have very little power on my 5x5 setting . i thought maybe my air filter (AFE pro dry) could be restricting becasue i noticed it has a few kinks in it like it imploded. washed it out and dont feel any difference. I have had locking/unlocking issues before and was advised by moparman to remove the noise filter..…

Just got new 60hp DAP injectors and got them installed, blead the lines and fired it up. Right of the batt truck ran like crap, poor throttle response and some hissing sound from exhoust. Then I went to turn it off and it won't turn off, took the key out of ignition and it ran until I taped accelerator pedal, and then it shut off. Never had this happen before and not sure what causes this bad injectors or something else. Ran great before the swap. Did everything exact same way that I did last week when I cleaned my original injectors that I thought were 100hp until I pled them out and relized that they were stock, so I decided to go with 60hp for better mpg and power, and…

My 47RE is going out. Starting to chatter on low rpm lug in lock up and OD. I need to get my mind around gathering parts for the swap quick. Does anyone know how much I'll need to spend to get this done? Are there any sorurces that sell kit for reasonable prices? I have access to decent replacement auto transmissions locally for $1,500 tha have valve body upgrades, add $500 for removal and install and $1,000 for a torque converter and we are up to $3k. Can I do the swap for this amount if I do most of the labor myself? Kinda short on money. Saving for hip replacement surgery. Out of pocket looking like $5k plus living expenses while in recover.

Thnx for reading my thread fellas. I'm sure this will put your mind to work alittle... So I bought this truck 2002 4x4 built Auto AFe cold air, Edge comp, stock turbo & inj.... with bad no. 6 cylinder. Local shop pulled the motor and replaced piston, rings, rod, bearings.. etc only on the 6 cylinder all others looked real good.... Now truck smokes alot at idle.. and I have weird sound coming from the intake. I put 1200 miles on it and truck runs real well. Changed oil and filters yesterday and found out it consumed over 1.5 gallons of oil since only about a gallon drained out. Is that normal for a break in of one cylinder ( the hone did need a course hon…

I purchased these intercooler boots (VPMAX 94-02 Intercooler Boot Kit) after discovering the fender lip had cut into the boots on the both sides at the intercooler, it happens! http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VPMAX-Intercooler-Boot-Kit-p/icb2.htm They look really good. I'm having a bit of a battle getting the passenger side installed. The whole assembly, when all the way seated, appears to be too long by about 1". I'm attaching a few pix of where I am with it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The truck is a 98.5 leaks power steering fluid, couple weeks ago had to add more power steering fluid before leaving work loosened the 90° fitting for my fass to the IP above the power steering reservoir. I thought by chance I heard a crack noise when doing so. Drove an hour home truck seemed to be running okay. That night I went hunting and when I went to leave the truck had a hard time starting like it had air in my lines so I figured I just didn’t have the fitting tight. A I also noticed at that time the truck didn’t have the same throttle response etc. I took the 90° fitting off and tightended the banjo to the injection pump before reinstalling 90. Now this is here …

First of all thanks for taking the time to read this. I'm a long time lurker who has found a ton of useful info here. This may be a bit of a long post as I have a lot of info to relay. Truck: 98.5 24v with nv5600 manual trans. Replaced just about everything by now except the engine it self. To start with, several weeks ago my truck started charging slower and never showing more than about 13v. I replaced the alternator with no improvement then discovered the voltage regulator was not working. So I installed an external voltage regulator and everything worked great again. I have not seen any voltages over 14.3V even at full throttle. I did not insta…