2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have a new to me 99 2500. I took it on an eight hour round trip drive and on the way back check engine light came on. I didn't notice any drivability issues at all and light went out after 40 miles. When I got home I pulled the codes and found po122 apps voltage low and po237 map sensor voltage low. Do you guys think it could just be a one time glitch or should I investigate asap? Thanks.

Also posted on CF for exposure.So my truck started acting up the other day... Driving at around 80kph I started to feel a light surging, it got progressively worse and then threw a CEL and I had significant dead pedal issues. I limped it home and checked codes. At that time it gave me p0122 and p0500. I cleared them and went for another drive. Same issues, but all it had was the p0122 code this time. I did an apps recalibration and the problem persists. Sometimes the code shows up in both the ecm and pcm sometimes just the ecm. The 0500 code has not returned. So I put on a used apps from a truck that was wrecked but running fine before... same issues, same code. I ran thr…

Were these ON-OFF only, (Batt voltage) or did they put in a variable concession for different loads? *vp 44's*

I have a code just set for the first time yesterday sure yesterday it was PO238 map sensor voltage high, I cleared this yesterday to see what would happen today Turned ignition on today and PO237 map sensor voltage low set, no PO238 Done the diagnostics for the 237 code and everything checks out except map voltage is 0.5v ignition on not running or running, it does increase to around 1v to 1.6v if stalled in gear I got 5.2v on orange which tells me the 5v supply is good, no other sensor codes set no short to earth on the other 2 wires or each other I haven't disconnected the ecm plugs and checked continuity of these two Fitted a quad a…

While changing the oil today I had my filter off and noticed something odd. I cant remember if I have noticed this before but there are no nicks in the blades and it has no in and out movement and very little side to side. It spins freely fine and builds boost as it should but as you can see there is a chunk of metal missing right behind the nut.

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Hey guys my rigs been acting weird electrically lately it sat for 9 months while I was saving for a new turbo setup. Now that its up and running im having several what I suspect are electrical issues here are what I think may be the symptoms of my ecu going bad( rough idle at peak high idle rpm, lift pump not cycling when I turn the key on or bump it) I do have fuel pressure while the truck runs It takes longer to start now that I dont have pressure before start up. I've read similar threads but saw no resolutions The other issue im having is my od, it stopped going into overdrive by itself (lock up switch did the trick for a few months) now …

So gents, i am in need of figuring out which clutch to purchase, mainly power wise. My dilemma is i only have a ballpark of the max my truck puts out but i dont want to be way over or way under and end up purchasing a clutch that is insufficient.I want to get a complete kit, clutch and flywheel as i think the original flywheel is garbage.All i have done is rv275's, bhaf, edge juice w/attitude. everything else stock and will stay that way. (truck has plenty of power.I rarely tow, rarely "get on it", dont pull nor race.I cant get an estimate on power as the current clutch slips with ease in setting 1 now, so im stuck.on the power rating they put on clutches, is that off the…

I NEED HELP TRUCK RUNS OUT OF FUEL AND I SHUT KEY OFF AND LET LIFT PUMP FILL FILTER AND IT WILL RUN FINE FOR A MIN OR SO THEN DO THE SAME THING REPLACED FILTER AND HAS A AIR DOG RAFTER LIFT PUMP THAT IS NOT AS LOUD AS I REMEMBER IT BEING. I'M STUCK AT WALMART PARKING LOT TILL I FIGURE OUT DON'T HAVE MUCH MONEY TO TRY THINGS LIKE NEW LIFT PUMP IF THAT'S NOT IT I PUT THAT ONE ON A LITTLE OVER A YEAR AGO. ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED THANKS

Posting this issue for KyCTD since we talked about it in the chat last night and told him I would type it out for him. Bought a 2001 auto CTD that ran fine. One day he started getting on it pretty good and then it just turned into a really doggy truck, slower than any stock truck. Described it as "Geo metro being pushed by a yugo with a 30mph tailwind lol". Found it also had a cracked block. Scrapped the engine and found a 2000 donor truck which was also an auto. Put the engine in using the 2001 ECM and it ran but something wasn't right. Found out the cams were different, switched the cams and that made it run perfect. He used the 2000 VP as well, not the one off …

Put a stick through the bottom of my radiator last night.... @#*&* Just got on and was browsing through for some internet options and one thing I am seeing quite frequently is the option of a 2 row or a 3 row radiator...Never having the pleasure of having to pull one I am ignorant to what is in there, although I am assuming it must be a 2 row because I can't see them offering anything less than OEM standard. That's surprising to me, I always ASSumed it was at a minimum of a 3 row or a 4. I'm guessing due to the surface area, a 2 row was sufficient for these motors. I wouldn't mind upgrading to a 3 row but the truth is I have NEVER seen my truck overheat and the 3 …

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My 2001 Dodge Dually runs flawlessly but when I start it cold (40-60 degrees f) the transmission bogs the engine down. In some cases the engine stalls, other times the engine runs but cannot move the truck. Any ideas where to start? Should our engines idle for 3-5 minutes first? Thanks

Well tax return time is coming around the bend so Im going to get a new lift pump. So I was thinking its between the Raptor or the Air dog. I priced the raptor at 350 and airdog around 600. It it worth the extra coin for the airdog? My plans are Little bit bigger injectors 75 max and be able to turn up the smary. Thanks guys.

I have a problem that ain't really a problem but I can't spool my turbo up for a good launch in 1st gear. It seems the engine just defuels or somethin and I just get about 9lbs of boost max. Smokes like crazy tho so I know it's getting fuel!! Any1 familiar with this??

Hey all! So I thought I had this w-t ground mod in the bag, haven't been driving it much but today I decided to drive it because I'm working on the Buick. So now I can't get two blocks without popping 150 amp breaker. Like I said I haven't been driving much really but the only thing that's changed since I did the mod a couple weeks ago is I just recently installed quadzilla, not sure if it's got anything to do with it? I thought of just unplugging quad, but will it even run right?? Plus having quad installed doesn't make sense why the breaker is popping anyhow. Any advice? I thought I read somewhere were someone was having a similar issue…

I just got done ordering some RV275s from DAP. They have some really good prices and offered free shipping to Canada. I couldn't go wrong. I can't wait to see how much better it will run with them. My injectors are stock and have 456,000kms on them. I hope my auto trans is up to it I have changed out the HY turbo for the HX like you guys recommended and it helped, but looking for just a bit more power. My next move will be a Edge Comp box instead of the EZ. Thanks for all the good ideas I've learned here so far. You guys haven't steered me wrong yet.

Decided I got tired of shifting gears sold my manual setup and bought a auto setup. My truck is a 2000 bought everything from a late 99 truck. Got everything in and I am having issues. The truck will not shift on its own I have to do it manually, the OD off light stays on and won't let me change it along with the trans temp light goes off a couple of seconds after I start it and my trans temp shows 260 degrees on a cold start. I have a no bus communication about 20 seconds after start up. All of my gauges work fine without issues. I changed the PCM and wiring harness to trans with the 99 truck. Still have my manal ecm. I need all of the help I can get here anyone please…

@IBMobile Got my lockup switch installed today. Hit momentary switch and converter locks. Hit it again converter unlocks. Hit brake it unlocks. I used a toggle switch instead of a dimmer switch. When i flip the toggle it locks without pressing the momentary switch and brakes do not unlock converter. Only did a short drive to check operation but seems to work fine. Thanks for the write up.

Ok fellas! I'm replacing the side tappit cover gasket! I'm 3/4 of the way into tear down an like a dummy I forgot to take pictures! I'm fixing to start taking some pictures of what I have done so far! An I will take pictures of reassembly if you want me to post them I will! I will write a summary on the teardown and reassembly if anyone else ever has to do this!